You have got that far, sorry. The best way is to grind it off with a Dremel or similar tool, a drill is trickier as you want to keep the drill on center and in line with the pin, use a drill smaller than the pin if you can and then drill of the remainder

 

I'm at KEY WON't TURN , and so I'm following every step, trying to drill out the locking pin, but do I just drill until it's flat, I kept going at it but it's not flattening

 

Gotcha, yeah I've been doing that as well, but I'll try again

 

Here is the deal with the pin : It must be depressed in order to clear the hole and allow the lock assembly to be rotated and removed. If the key will not turn, it will not depress, so it must be drilled/ground enough to clear the hole as stated above.

 

My other question, i my transponder ring came unhooked and I have no idea where to hook it up, anyone has an idea?

 

The antenna ring has a cable that connects to the SKREEM module up behind the instrument cluster.

 

After all the photos I have seen on this forum I have yet to see one showing behind the instrument cluster, with the dash off.

 

Need help please, I got the whole assembly out, I tried taking out just the black cyclinder but the only thing that came out was the black thing around it, I have a picture attached, can anyone give me an idea what to do? My key still didn't turn after all the drilling, or should I be fine? And all I need to do is use a Center Punch and hammer to open the hatch??

 

Yes, a center punch and hammer, or you can just use a standard screwdriver and hammer and punch back the metal overhangs holding the metal hatch cover on - that's how I do it. That way, the metal cover does not get bent.
Once the detent and spring are removed from under the hatch cover, you should be able to turn the key.

 

That is right. You get in there and take out the little wedge and spring - they will probably be jammed in there, use what ever tool you have handy to pop them out.

That will leave an empty cavity. I usually drop 3-4 drops of light oil (5W20 or 10W or etc.) in there and hold the assembly so it drains down in toward the plunger that goes into the steering column - that is opposite direction that the key goes in.

Then, flatten the little steel 'door' and pop it back in place and put the car back together. You will NEVER have this problem again. Period. (My car went 70,000 miles and five years with no issue after doing this).

 

Thank you all very much for the help, I still cannot find where to hook the other end of transponder ring. If anyone has a picture, that'd be great, I looked for SKREEM but too many damn cables around there

 

Am I anywhere near it?

 

Can you post a picture of the ring and it's cable? I am finding it hard be believe that it came unplugged from the SKREEM. And the SKREEM is up behind the speedometer/tach somewhere. Again, I was thinking that THAT end of the cable was tied to the harness and could not be pulled out easily.

 

Yeah it's actually on the right side of the picture just hanging, and it came off when I removed the lower panel, it got stuck somehow

 

It has happened before here and is a pain in the butt to reattach.

 

Ahh don't tell me that well it has been so far more than a pain in the butt trying to look for where it needs to be attached. If Id have an idea where it is, that'll help.
That's all it's left before putting everything back together, luckily I have a 2nd car

 

The instrument cluster has to be removed.

This is what it says in section 8J-83 of the '04 Service Manual. Download and save this if you have not done it yet, I find the '04 manual easier to read than the '05 one as it has a better index.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Refer to Page 19-25.
3. Remove the lower instrument panel cover (2).
ZH INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - SERVICE INFORMATION 8J - 83
4. Remove the instrument cluster bezel (1).
5. Remove the retaining screws from instrument cluster.
6. Move the instrument cluster toward the rear of the vehicle.
7. Unlock and disconnect the Instrument Cluster harness connectors
from the back of the instrument cluster.
8. Remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle.

The trickiest part maybe in removing the steering wheel and putting it back on in the correct position. But you will learn how to fix your car. When you do this take a picture of the area with the SKREEM in it, it will be a first in the forum.
You are doing good, at first I thought you were not up to the job, you have proved me wrong there.

 

So after a few days of heat and rain and a bit of demotivation, I was finally up the task and finished connecting the wire back into SKREEM, and car drives just fine. It was fairly easy. All I had to do is remove the Instrument Cluster, it was pretty difficult removing it at first since I've never done it before, but there are 5 screws total that needed to be removed, one on the left side of the Instrument cluster and 4 on the inside the I. C. After that, unlock and disconnect the Instrument Cluster harness connectors,, there's a tab, make sure you press down. And that's it. I have some pictures where it needs to be connected.

 

I've got to say, those are the first photos of what is behind there that I've ever seen.

Now that I see how much room there is back there, I'm getting some ideas........................

 

Dave, there once was a post about getting the instrument cluster out WITHOUT taking off the steering wheel (If I remember correctly). I think it had something to do with pulling the wheel all the way out (rearward) by using the lock/unlock control. So, if the wheel does not have to be removed, it makes it a whole lot easier and safer, as the SRS bag and clockspring isn't touched, and the wheel sensor isn't disturbed. I wish I was better at searching with key words! Can anyone else confirm/deny this before this member takes his steering wheel off?


Wheeeeeee, I found the link! See ( https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ictures-2.html ) first post (OP). Says steering wheel does not have to come off!