Yeah that looks exactly what mine used to look like. But as you can see from my pictures on the previous page, the keys were COMPLETELY different (at least the bases were). So there were either 2 separate and independent batches of keys made, or the keys were made in two totally different places so they didn't match correctly. Either way, the fix was not that difficult.

 

Tom...Thanks for the one of the best post ever. Very detailed and my DIY project went flawless because of the time you put into this.

 

I *really* appreciate the instructions posted on disassembling the keyfobs -- but I didn't have as good of luck with the procedure as I thought I would.

I bought one of the replacement keyfob cases off eBay (shipped from China). It came with just a black plastic shell and an uncut key, but no circuit board/batteries/etc. inside it.

I took my existing (worked fine, but all beat up with melted buttons) keyfob apart using the snap-ring pliers and a knife and got the original metal key and transponder out just fine.

Unfortunately though, I really had a struggle separating the portion of the plastic where the batteries go, so the circuit board would successfully come out. I think the ONE thing I screwed up was not immediately realizing I had to be careful to preserve (not bend or mutilate) the little metal tab sticking up in the plastic ring that acts as the positive terminal for the coin cell batteries. While trying to tug the plastic loose with a small locking pliers, I managed to smash the little metal prongs down on that tab.

I transferred everything over to the new keyfob case, but now that it's all reassembled, the buttons on the keyfob do nothing! (I even tried that thing where you hold down lock and unlock at the same time until you see the red flight flash to indicate you're changing the way it unlocks the doors/trunk... Never saw a light flash.) I tested the coin cell batteries with a battery tester and they check out good, so it's not those.

I figured that metal tab I bent up was simply not making good enough contact with the batteries anymore, so I tried cutting and inserting a small piece of aluminum foil to help make sure it makes good contact. But still nothing!

The key unlocks the car door and it will start the engine fine (so the transponder part must be ok)... but if I can't get the buttons to work, I may as well have just left this whole thing alone, in the original keyfob!

Also tried to reprogram the keyfob with putting it in the ignition, pressing unlock twice, and then turning the key to "run" -- but that did nothing either. It's like the keyfob simply has no power....

I'm puzzled now, because I was pretty careful not to damage the circuit board when removing it, other than just bending that little tab up a bit. Anyone else run into a similar issue?

 

I made a couple of changes to the "guide" above.

In short:
1) Do NOT lever the case open by inserting a knife and squeezing. It is too easy to damage the circuit board by doing this.
2) I recommend inserting a knife blade into the cracks around the battery compartment to break/cut the epoxy that is holding the two halves together.
3) After you have assembled your key fob and tested it and it works, then apply a little crazy glue - only a drop or two - to hold the two halves together. Once you break the original epoxy holding the two halves together, the fob is prone to come apart when you twist it hard. This is a problem when your ignition cylinder in your car gets stiffer over the years.

 

Yeah... In my situation, I gave up and just ordered 2 new keyfobs from a local dealership. Should have them in, in about 2 weeks, $337 or so later (with sales tax). Ouch.

The old one (only one I had) that I transplanted will just wind up on my wife's keyring so she can at least unlock the doors manually and start the car with it, if she needs to. (She doesn't plan on driving my Crossfire anyway, but it'll be there for emergencies.)

I've looked over the whole thing multiple times though and I really can't figure out what I did wrong, except I must have damaged something with that step #1 that you're wisely telling people to avoid doing now. I can't see any visible damage to the circuit board at all, but it's clearly dead now, and batteries left in the fob for a couple days run almost completely dead -- so has to be a short. The buttons aren't stuck down or anything though. Verified that.

Oh well... win some, lose some.

 

This was such an amazing explanation of how to do this. I just bought my second Crossfire, it's a 2005 black coupe and it had one key - with a broken fob. I bought a fob on ebay, followed this carefully and oyvay! It worked perfectly and the new fob looks and works great. It's the small successes that sometimes make a day.

 

All thanks go to tom2112 for a good explanation. I followed them as well and my fob change out went well.

 

Needed to replace my key fob batteries today. I had no issues removing the cover. The best place to do it is by inserting your fingernail on the side of the cover closest to where the key ring holder is and then snap it off.

 

If you can pop the Fob open with your fingernail, you probably open your beer bottle with your teeth, right?

 

Teeth? What teeth?.......

 

Well I put the new cases on mine, destroyed the old ones that someone put to much glue on them.


I did glue the transponder in with super glue, I hope that's ok, I tried them out and did not have to re calibrate them so I have two new looking keys.


where can I get the Chrysler logo that goes on these FOBS

 

I read the manual because I had a similer problem, it seems that if the transmitter is without power for more than a few minutes, it needs reprogrammed. Simply press the lock or unlock button twice, insert key and turn to run. Flashers with signal the fob it working. worked for me when i had a fob that had dead batteries sitting in the drawer for a few months.

 

Thanks for the guide. The instructions were great. All the buttons work, and the key starts the car. However, the key won't lock in the closed position. It just opens right back up after an attempted close. Any suggestions?

 

Have you synchronized the key to the car. It may not work without that routine being done.
See post #112 for details if required.

 

"Will not work".. okay... just don't tell my new replacement case it shouldn't be working....

"If" you spent an extensive amount of time with the batteries out, then most likely you will have to resync to the car. Wasn't the case for me.

 

I'll change it to "may not work".
I cannot remember if mine worked after the swap or not.
I guess the time take by some is longer than others and some may have started with dead batteries.

 

180.. re read his post.. sloowwly.. is he talking the key won't fold back and stay..?? "buttons work fine"...unquote..

If so he needs to study the example.. his key is not oriented on the shaft correctly..

 

S l o w l y read and you are correct.
Sometimes we understand it to say what we are expecting to see.

 

Hello Tom!

You are the MAN! I just followed the instructions you posted to swap out my chip into a new key housing and it works like a charm. You saved me a nice chunk of money and therefore I'd like to say thanks. It's very much appreciated and people like you keep this forum and the whole Crossfire community alive so we can all enjoy our cars for years to come!

I had purchased my vehicle with a backup key from the dealer but oddly it turned out the backup key wasn't the right key for my car and the key that came with the car was in such bad shape that even the Open/Close buttons were almost ripped off completely and the red sensor was torn to shreds. It had definitely been bothering me for a while and I am glad I now have a "brand new" key for this beautiful car.

Nick

 

I'm glad it worked out for you Nick!