Just double checking, do you need to have the car in D (drive) as Woody states it as "OR".
I picked up 14V on my fuse (Fuse 23 on the SLK32) as soon as I turn the ignition on. I cant imagine it but the switch wouldn't be on the earth. Still trying to decipher the wiring diags.

 

If you're trying to do it in the driveway, then it needs to be in drive and brake torqued to that RPM to kick in. What I like about having an IC fill tank is being able to open the cap and see the flow, and stick the pinky in and not get burned; even after a hard run on the road course.

 

Good post!!!

Could you please inquire me where is the relay located ?

 

I know this is an old post but going to do it and wondering will I be able to see the I/C water moving in the stock overflow tank when it is done ?? Just to confirm it is working.
Thanks

 

Why?
Waldig says the pump runs full time after it has ran once.

 

No, you won't see it moving. You have isolated the two systems, and the coolant no longer mixes w/ the stock coolant reservoir, unless you open the valves. A nifty way to have a separate fill tank for the IC, and actually SEE the coolant flow, can be seen at my gallery pic.'s (see IC spit tank mod.)

 

I do have the Needswings Intercooler Isolation Kit installed. Even with that and the always on mod done you still wont see any coolant movement ??

 

Is there a How To on doing the Split Tank Mod ?
Thanks

 

Correct. If you do see movement in the stock tank, it is because of the water pump, not the IC pump. And not sure about a "how to" on the "spit tank". Study the pic.'s carefully. The little tank can be gotten used on E-Bay perhaps; that's how I acquired mine. It is a BMW power steering reservoir. I got the idea from another member "Tunaglove" a few years back. If you decide to do this, and have any questions, you can P.M. me. And 180 is right about your need for the always on mod.

 

Thank you for the info, will see what I can figure out.

 

unless you do it my way.

20121220091955_zpsec71d967.mp4 Video by amx1397 | Photobucket

20121220091955_zpsec71d967.mp4 Video by amx1397 | Photobucket

 

Real nice job, but a little more then I want to get into.
Thanks

 

Pump could be running but impeller could be broken. (what happened on my first pump).

 

In that case the performance loss would be very noticeable.
Seems to me to be s mod that has practically no benefit at all, by the time you get around to noticing no coolant movement you will have noticed that the car has lost its pep.
Do as you want but modifying for the sake of doing something to the car seems pointless to many.
You probably has the old pump, the 010 pump seems reliable.

 

You still don't need the always on mod; you just need to SEE the flow. The additional reservoir allows you to not only SEE the flow, but allows you to have completely different coolant fills, and you can easily check the IC circuit fill level to see if your IC is starting to leak. I run a 75/25 fill in the main engine coolant circuit year round as we rarely see 33deg.'s here. And in the IC circuit I run distilled water and a bottle of water wetter from Rob.

 

There is the question of galvanic corroepsion when using distilled water, aluminum and copper Ina system,.that is what Inread, they say damage can be evident. If you have brass fittings the copper is present.

 

What I actually add to my distilled water in the intercooler system is "Chill Charger" for water to air Intercoolers. I'm not certain how this differs from other water wetters, but the claims are: Protects Core. Prevents: core corrosion, electrolysis, and mineral buildup. Some water wetters simply eliminate the surface tension of the water. Hopefully the "Chill Charger" adds the necessary additives for their claimed protection.

 

Old thread I know, is there a way to look at intake temperature or IC temp via some OBDII live data to see exactly how much extra cooling is provided with an always on or a totally separated coolant system?

Where I am going with this is could it be possible to pump the coolant through the small OEM intercooler radiator so fast it can't completely cool the liquid? Meaning if the coolant goes through the radiator so fast there isn't time to take the heat out because it's passing by the fins too fast to cool. And, if so, what IS the optimum gallons per minute flow for optimum cooling?

Yea, I'm a numbers and details type person.

 

You reckon the HWKO (Hot with key on) lug... would be safe to support running the cooling fan for short trips around town while I wait for my cooling fan relay module to arrive...?

 

NO, this mod is to make the SRT6 intercooler coolant pump run with just the key on.