Yes. See posts 751 & 752

I redid all on my new spare one just to be safe. Only did the big 3 on my original as the others look good. (See post 746 for pics) I just used cheap $6 iron and solder from auto zone.

 

Thanks for the info. I took it out today and decided to ship it to tighed1. Will post once I get back and up and running.

 

Id like to take it out so i can bring it to someone. Battery is disconnected. Cover is off....how to you unplug the RCM board? Too much pulling is making me nervous

 

If you pull it up and out of it's slot using the wires, then it's much easier to remove each connector.
Don't worry about order or location, each connector is unique ( like me ).

 

Yes they are hard to pull off I was like I don't want to break this or pull the wires off but you won't just give them a good pull they will come off & only go back on one way don't have to worry about mixing them up

 

Ok now im even more nervous....i would've never pulled the wires ... wouldn't have crossed my mind.... but ok, I'll do it
... obviously the tony little lids need to be open then...

 

I don't like the sound of that !
There are NO lids that need to be open, if you are referring to the little caps on top of the wires in all the connectors,
LEAVE THEM ALONE !

 

NO, not the "wires" but the wire "connectors" are to be removed.

"pull by the wires" means to pull the assembly up out of the big plastic box by grabbing the whole assembly wires and all to get it free, then disconnect the connectors to free the RCM from the harness.

1) Open the Control Module container box.
IMG_7017sm.jpg
2) Push any wires on top of the RCM aside to access the RCM.
IMG_7018sm.jpg
3) Grab the RCM wire loom and gently lift the complete assembly out of its nesting hole, tilting the front side up first.
IMG_7019sm.jpg
IMG_7020sm.jpg
4) Pull the RCM assembly free of the box and other wire harnesses.
IMG_7021sm.jpg
5) Disconnect the wire connectors from the RCM. (all are unique, order of disconnect not important)
IMG_6297sm.jpg
6) Open and repair the RCM
IMG_6304sm.jpg
IMG_6459c.jpg
7) Install in reverse order #5 - #1

 

Ok....that was helpful, youre awesome....i got it out...i took great pics of my prong thingies...now if only i could easily upload them!! Theyre too big. Thanks so much!!!

 

Use irfanview to resize (free) and photobucket to host if too big for attachment.

IrfanView - Official Homepage - one of the most popular viewers worldwide

Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing

 

The wire ends are hard to get off, just take your time and pull hard rocking from side to side if possible.
I took mine out and sent it to Tighed1. Got it back yesterday; will install tomorrow. Will post.

 

The thumbnail pic you posted was blurry, but it appears that the telltale square cracks are developing on those pins.

 

Lets see if i can follow instructions. Pics below...hopefully

http:// 20150228_163158_zpswnupkizw.jpg

http:// 20150228_163206_zps9l0jqmkt.jpg

http:// 20150228_163232_zpshf7unzfq.jpg

 

Second picture clearly shows that you need to resolder.

 

Ive never been so happy to hear someone tell me i have a problem !! Thanks!!

 

And I didn't even charge you $450 an hour to do it !

 

Haha, right. I still dont see it...they look like all the other little solder things to me, but someone is gonna do 'em up today and HOPEFULLY i can get this car to stay on long enough to drive it to a mechanic for the immobile top/spoiler issue!! i just had to fix it so ot could be fixed. Makes sense right?

 

The contact pins go through the board. The board has a metal pad where the pins go through. The solder joins the pin to the plate. On the RCM the pins begin to separate from the solder creating cracks around the pins. (could be from vibration or perhaps they were 'cold/ disturbed joints' from the factory?) These pins are square tube shaped and create straight line cracks around the pins. This makes a loose electrical connection. Resolder reconnects the pin to the pad.

ireland.jpg

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-...ommon-problems

 

I got my PCM back from tighed1 Friday and installed it today. It took about 5 minutes. I am still having the same problem. The car started up and shut off in about 1 second. It did this about 3 times. After about 24 hours I will be able to start up and it will again shut off.

Now that I know my PCM is not the problem, my starter is good and I have a new battery, what is the next step in the elimination process to determine the cause of the problem?

If anybody needs their PCM resoldered, tighed1 is the guy. I shipped mine from Florida on Sunday and got
it back on Friday.

tighed1 keep up the good work.

 

Replace the CPS ( Crankshaft Position Sensor ) with a Bosch one,
if that doesn't resolve the issue, then next step is to borrow a fuel pressure gauge from Advance or Autozone and ensure you have 50-60 lbs of pressure at startup.
The test point is at the end of the fuel rail at the passenger side front of the engine.
Possible problems : fuel pump, fuel filter.