I have to get one for my Crossfire, where did you get it from? How much did you pay?

 

I need to get one for my 2005 Crossfire limited, Where did you buy it? How much did you get it for?

 

I'd Just send it to DJ for repair.

For a new one, Summit Racing is hard to beat on price:
Click HERE to see what I found

That link will take you to a new one for $152. I've seen them for as little as $124 but that was two years ago.
I'd still send the bad one to DJ so you have a spare.

 

Heck ya can even find one on Amazon now....Says it fits the Crossfire $143.25

 

Do these look bad?


Not blown but corrision on 40amp fuse for air pump in the RCM. Needs replacing?

Hi, I pulled my RCM from my 2004 crossfire because of no start after 100% charge with 2 amp trickle charger. Dash lights turn on, but no turnover. After more tries, nothing. Everything looks okay (fuses and relays) besides these two pics ... 40 amp fuse not blown but some corrosion on connectors and the 3 infamous areas to solder. I have never soldered before but would like to give a try. Does this look like soldering should do the trick? Do I try to remelt and then add to what's there -or- just add to it? I have read in other thread that 60-40 tin/lead ratio is what I should use.

Thank you - myxfr

 

Even the pad below the ones you have circled need reflowing.
Just heat them up and add a bit more solder, make sure you get the pins themselves hot enough to bond solder to them.

The fuse is fine.

 

Unless you are real confident in your soldering I would just replace it. Or fix it to work for now and order another one for if needed.

I had re soldered mine a few years back then it quit last year and I just bought a new one.

 

Try resoldering the 3 bad joints on the RCM. If that doesn't do it or you aren't comfortable doing the repair, email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for details on getting me to refurbish your RCM.

 

*UPDATE* - I bought a butane soldering kit, 60 tin / 40 lead rosin, and triple refined butane. (I figured if I can't get this to work at least my kids could use for creme brulee, jewelry making, and wood burning!) Without knowing for sure that the RCM was the problem, I couldn't get myself to buy a new part. I resoldered the three joints plus a few others that looked like possible cold joints. Note I had zero soldering experience before this. I read about proper soldering... it should look like a Hershey's kiss... not a bubble and took care not to connect anything that shouldn't. I used my phone camera, well lit area, and yes my reading glasses to inspect all the joints.

Well I put back in the CF and still the same identical problem even with a fully charged battery. I ended up jump starting it and test drove it for 15 minutes, testing accessories just to make sure I didn't mess anything up with my soldering and it seemed fine. Parked it, but still didn't start up.

I went to sleep feeling pretty resigned and figured I'd buy a new RCM but then remembered this other thing I had tested before that didn't work, but maybe it would now since I resoldered the RCM. From a different thread in this forum ...



I had read one person needed to do this for a few hours so I let my CF sit overnight grounding the system to reset the computer and amazingly ...

IT STARTED!!!!

Twice ... and then I left it alone with more ideas of switching out the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors next since there was one incident the car died while driving on a hot day.

Thank you so much for this forum and all the info from those responding, step by step instructions, tips, and encouragement. Not only do I save money, but I can understand my car better too! Thanks again - myxfr

 

Show us the after picture. Actually this is the worst RCM I have aver seen and you might have way more spots that need touching. Where are you in Michigan?

 

Just reflowing the solder is not the best solution.
You should remove as much solder as possible and clean the terminal until you can see the copper. Then add flux and apply the solder when the terminal is hot enough to get the solder flowing on it.
Otherwise you just hide the oxide on the terminal, it may look OK but the contact is not better by much if at all.

 

Exactly. Effective replacing or repairing of solder points requires owning and operating braided solder wicks and / or a solder sucker iron. Otherwise have someone else do it.

 

Thank you for the follow-up comments. My soldering venture was an attempt to diagnose the problem instead of just throwing new parts at it. Given the input provided, I plan to purchase a new RCM to replace the one I soldered. I will purchase wick and flux, to properly remove the old solder and join the new solder, and test it. This I will keep in the CF for backup. Sorry I did not include an after picture, but I will after I take it out (resolder take 1) and after I resolder it again (take 2). Thank you again, looking forward to getting this car going again after the long winter months. - myxfr

 

Hi DJ,
Are you still doing rebuilds? I think I have the issue. Tried and failed few months ago.
Would like to send it to you. Do you have a rebuilt one you could swap back?
2004 XFire in friend's garge and need to move it quick.
Please let me know.
Thank You.

 

Hi DJ,
Are you still doing rebuilds? I think I have the issue. Tried and failed few months ago.
Would like to send it to you. Do you have a rebuilt one you could swap back?
2004 XFire in friend's garge and need to move it quick.
Please let me know.
Thank You.

 

Yup! Still fixin them.
I replied to your email.

Anyone wanting the latest refurbishing information, email me at tighed1@hotmail.com.

 

*** UPDATE part 2 *** My resoldering of the RCM and computer restart (by connecting the positive and negative terminals) fixed my no start problem for nearly three months. I had not yet got around to ordering a spare RCM as advised by others, and unfortunately found myself stranded at a gas station after a rainy six-hour drive away from home. Not even jump starts were working. There was an Amazon hub at the gas station so I ordered a new RCM and it was delivered in two days. Luckily, the gas station was also 24/7 trucker stop with showers etc. The weather cooperated, but when I replaced the old RCM with the new one (Standard Motor Products) ... it did not work... even with a computer reset! I had it towed to the closest auto shop the following day, thinking maybe it's the starter ... or maybe the battery because when I put the new RCM in, the spoiler popped up with red light flashing on spoiler switch, and I could not get it to go back down. I explained the issues with the RCM to the auto shop. They said it doesn't look like the battery or the starter is the problem. The next day I asked for an update, they said they are leaning towards it needing a new ECM and that it would need to be taken to a Chrysler dealership for reprogramming. I asked if they double checked the RCM, but they said they had not. So I asked if I could. Another reason I wanted to is because my resolder work appeared to have cracked some and the old RCM smelled ever so slightly fried. I wanted to examine the new RCM, check the solder joints, fuses and relays instead of just assuming all would be okay since it's a "new" part. The solder joints looked good. While pulling out the fuses to check, a 15 got pulled and stretched out. I replaced with a fuse from old RCM. Important part next ==> while checking that the relays moved back and forth with no corrosion, one of the relays had a wire wrapped around too high and too tight such that when I had brushed the wire a bit with my hand, it made a click freeing the relay. <== I am 95% certain this was the main problem. The tight wire prevented the relay from moving freely. I made sure all the wires were moved down enough (it was the fourth one from the top that seemed off ). I replaced the RCM, did the computer reset, and it started just like that! I drove to the nearest Chrysler dealership to recharge the battery fully and also test shutting car off and restarting again, and yes it restarted. So lesson learned is.. if you resoldered, best to have a new RCM that you have checked over just as thoroughly as the resoldered RCM and ... test that it works ahead of finding yourself in a bind!

 

Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

Good story and great detective work. Attention to detail solves a lot of problems. Unfortunately, shops often recommend a new ECM when they have trouble diagnosing a problem. It seems that your problem was the quality of the Standard Motor Products RCM. Not uncommon as the quality of aftermarket parts continues to decline. About 5 years ago I replaced the RCM in my 2004 (for insurance) with an OEM MB unit from a dealer in Florida. Surprised at how inexpensive it was (maybe not anymore). Has worked well.

 

Members who have bought the Standard Motor Products say it is a genuine Mercedes part.