Gentleman,

Just purchased a 2005 Crossfire. Bought it for a song. Black on Black. 100K miles.
The Previous owner burned himself out on trying to figure out what is wrong. One day he was driving and the Engine light came on. Car died and wouldn't do anything.

He took it in for repair but they were having a problem with the ignition energizing the ignition for startup ? They removed and installed the Ignition tumbler for proper clock position and replaced the pulse unit relay. He was told by a mechanic it now needs a BCM.

I bought the car today . when I got home I Plugged in the code reader and get 0 DTC
You think a new BCM will straighten this mess out ?

if you hook the battery up. you can here the ABS pump running. cooling fan comes on
Rear wing comes up. Puts on quite a show actually.

HELP !!!

Thank you all for being here.

 

1. Probably cold solder joints on RCM if dash lights and engine does not turn over - search "Mystery No Start"
2. could be the CPS ( crankshaft position sensor ) if it turns over but don't start.
3. wing popping up when battery is connected usually means battery needs replacing.

BCM ? unlikely.

 

Hi!.. Ala_ XFire

Appreciate you taking the time to read my post. All Dash lights come on. ABS runs constant.
Turn key and nothing ? No power to starter ?

OBDII Reads 0 DTS

What's been replaced :

1. Ignition
2 Pulse Relay Unit
3.Relay Module.

 

Yep, sounds like the RCM. Read this:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

 

Most likely the RCM ( relay control module ).
There are 3 modules in the box by the battery ( BCM, PTCM & RCM ), the RCM is the one closest to the engine.
see the "Mystery No Start" thread, and use a GOOD magnifying glass to inspect the 3 solder pads.

Re-solder it yourself, or send it to DJ ( tighed1 ) for a fix.

 

Great link ! Thanks for the lead... Very informative.

So, after reviewing and reading the "No Start" thread I went out and pulled the relay. Took it apart. The Solder joints look very stout under a jewelers loupe.

Again, everything lights up. but it' s just plain DEAD when you turn the key. no Juice ?

The Relay was replaced in January. Same problem exist ? :-(

 

Fortunately you can download the entire 2005 factory service manual here. Start with the chart on page 9-715 "Engine will not crank"


First question. Exactly what happens when you turn the key on ? (What lights turn on?) You mentioned the spoiler extending. It shouldn't.


Do the gauges move ? Do the switches in front of the console do things (retract spoiler, lock doors,...)


Need to start with the basics and work from there.

 

Padgett Appreciate the response.

When the key is on. ABS motor runs continuously. Spoiler extends, All warning lights and gauges illuminate. All the switches work. IE: Windows up/down. Spoiler retracts with switch. etc.. Bizarre behavior. No energy to the starter ? OBD II reads 0 DTC when connected. Like there's nothing there ?

 

The electric motor you hear is the air pump that pumps air into the exhaust to warm up the cats. It should only work for 30 seconds or so. The relay in the RCM has jammed, the contacts are burnt and have stuck together.

 

OneHundred80.

The Relay Module is only a few months old. .......What's the fix for stuck contacts ?

Thanks

 

You say a motor runs constantly, where is the noise coming from?
You have to pinpoint the noise.
Maybe it's not the RCM.

 

Anti lock brake pump runs continuously when the battery is connected.

 

Am a little slow here. What does "OBD II reads 0 DTC " mean please ? No trouble codes ? Am more interested in sensor readings like battery voltage.


This is sounding like it is just not cranking, could be a bad battery, bad switch, or wiring issue. Guess I would just perform triage and connect a start button to the starter and see if it would crank/run that way.

 

No trouble codes at all. I'll juice the battery once again and see if the codes can be read.

You know... I think I'll try the starter button. if it cranks. maybe I'll try another ignition switch and work from there.

How difficult is it to replace the ignition switch ? any threads on that ?

 

That shop manual probably tells you how to test the switch. Replacing it is a doddle, see this thread.

 

Thanks !.... yea... looks like.........fun fun. Lol.

 

I'll start with a fully charged Battery. Replace the ignition switch and crank sensor. Hopefully I get a spark. if not I'll work backwards from there.

 

I searched for a similar problem with the pump and only found this , which is no help.
I would disconnected the plug to the CAB, this is done by lifting the latch and pivoting the plug out. Easier said than done, this has cured one problem before as I recall, inspect the connections. This unit has power all the time somehow through the 50w fuses.A sensor may be at fault telling the pump to run?

 

Highdollarcarguy
You bought the car with 100K miles with known issues by the previous owner. All of the logical solutions have been discussed, but start by buying a new battery, ASAP, don't charge the battery! A bad battery gives similar symptoms, and these cars are very sensitive to minimal fluctuations in voltage.

Pay for a quality battery and see what happens.....
Dennis
DTMenace

 

Thank you for responding.. a new Battery was purchased in January. Something is seriously wrong ? I notice today a substantial arc when hooking up the negative cable to the fully charged battery. The previous owner said all this started when his key wouldn't turn. they replaced the tumbler but not the plug in portion of the ignition. I honestly think this car has an ignition problem. I'm going to install a new ignition switch. I'll put another battery in it as well and see what happens.