While I appreciate the excellent tips for switch replacement, it seems to me that it is worthwhile to understand the basis for the failure first. After all, it can happen again. I have seen no comments on this subject, but no doubt some of you took apart your bad switch to discover the answer. You may see what is wrong with it. If you know the answer, please post your knowledge and the possible solution. Thanks
blacktouring

 

I'd say that a steel part under spring pressure constantly moving up and down in an aluminum alloy part is ripe for failure.
Later parts were sent out without this seemingly useless assembly, no doubt a product of over engineering. No lubrication was visible in mine when I fixed it prior to failure.

 

You mean the tips to remove the spring and pin that stick don't you? No parts are needed to fix the sticking ignition.

 

Thanks onehundred80 for your reply. blacktouring

 

I never thought to ask that - good question! All I know is I fixed mine last year, and it's been smooth sailing ever since.

 

As was explained years ago (it may not be in the current tutorial):

The spring and 'wedge' form a redundant lock, as '180 said, someone over engineered the mechanism.

The two parts serve to keep the locking cam from being pushed in, allowing the wheel to turn. But this is silly, the cam cannot be "pushed in" because there is no way to get in there and push it in, so, eventually, they stopped putting those two parts in.

And I shot some light machine oil in there before I put mine back together. I also wrapped tape around the mechanism, over the trap door, to prevent dust from getting in there. Over 65,000 miles without an issue.