I looked into that but it seemed too easy, I wanted a challenge where I would spend lots of money, time and patience. I think I achieved all of my goals.
Is that camera attached to the hatch? That is what I was thinking of doing.

 

Since my post I have had it suggested that the lighter should go into the passenger side wall of the centre console and Padgetts idea of a airbag light might be better and cheaper than taking a bulb from a Crossfire ash tray unit.
All my original parts will be put in a box and stored. I do this to all parts that I replace, whoever gets the car next has the option of retuning it to all stock equipment, that includes an OEM nav head unit.

 

Navigation
Rear cam view
Camera fitted in boot lid

 

Thanks for the photos, I like that method better than the other, it is an easy way to get to the interior of the car.

 

Dave, I can store the box for you and I WON'T be retuning or returning it to stock!

 

Liverpool I have a question, if you want access the blower control do you have to turn the radio off or can you retract the screen without turning off the radio?

 

Thanks for the photos, I like that method better than the other, it is an easy way to get to the interior of the car.

 

BTW with a six-speed you need to use a very very short cell phone power supply or you will hit it going for 5th. I have a dual Anker that sticks out about 1/16".

 

You can access the heat control wheel with the Screen up , but yes you can lower the screen anytime to operate the other control and the radio stays ON, the screen auto comes out with I put in reserve
The whole unit is very good and working great very please with the install.

 

Dave,
In the event you decide to install the camera as shown on the underside of the deck lid, you may want to take the lock mech out and get a good look at it before you drill.

I installed my camera in the same location and drilled through the underside of the lid with no problem, UNTIL........

Unknowingly, I drilled through the lock mech and the drill bit tagged the cam that is operated by paddle and the lock mech (deployed with the key fob). It allows you to open the trunk. I completed my project and slammed the trunk closed. Next time I tried to open it, no go. The paddle worked but it would not activate the latch. (Lock mech cam rod was broken)

I had to take out the marker light and spend 3 hours trying to open the trunk. I had the purchase another complete lock mech for eBay. Anothe $80.00USD


Moral of the story “inspect before you drill”

 

Good point, I have no excuse now that I have been warned, thanks.

 

I am now attempting to do the wiring of the Kenwood unit, that means I have come to the weakest part of my knowledge.
I have the Kenwood wiring diagram, the Scosche adapter and the Crossfire radio wiring diagram.
It appears to me that I have more wires coming out of the Kenwood that I know what to do with.
I know I have to add a reverse wire to the Crossfire plug.
I have wired up the Scosche adapter to the Kenwood plug, and switched the positions of the red and yellow leads. I have eight wires to the speakers but the Crossfire plug has only four.
Frankly I have gone around in circles on it and I am now totally confused.
Has someone got the plan that I should be following, please help me out before I get more confused.

 

I’ve done it. You have to split the front and back speakers.

the rear are subs. In the existing setup you cannot fade front and rear. I’ll look for my notes over the weekend

 

What is best:
1, Using the cars amplifier as per the OEM set up?
or
2, using the units built in amplifier?

I am thinking #1 is the easiest. YES or NO?

 

I would use the amplifier, it will be more powerful than the deck and even if you dont crank it ,it will sound better .
Those little chip amps they put in the decks wont really like the low impedance load the speakers present. (about 1ohm on the woofers)

 

I used the new head unit in conjunction with the factory amp
4 wires from the original head unit split the sound left and right rather than left right and front/back. That’s why you only have 4 wires from the OEM head unit and 8 pin location on the amp

8 pin locations on the amp
You are going to have to split front and rear
The door speakers are regular speakers but the rear are subs. For me, I just wanted to use the factory amp with the double din head unit. With the roof down at highway speed it’s still fine. In a Coupe it would be pretty great. I’m 53 my definition of great sound and loud music are different from my son who is 21

4 wires you can connect these from the head unit through the Scosche/metro aftermarket adapter
Amp pin 6-Right door Speaker input (-)
Amp pin 7-Right door Speaker input (+)

Amp pin 1-Left door Speaker input (+)
Amp pin 2-Left door Speaker input (-)

My Kenwood unit has sub woofer out left and right. Yours should too.
The factory wires do not account for this.

I purchased RCA (phonographic plug) plug/Cable, cut it half and peeled back the wire. You could also purchase just the jacks and solder wires into the jacks. Purchasing ready made, we’ll, made more sense to me.

The wire to the center of the RCA Plug is positive and the shield (Outer connection) is always negative or ground. (Lots of illustrations of this on-line)

NEXT 4 WIRES are for the rear subs. Bypass the aftermarket scosche connector and run the RCA from the sub outs on the back of the head unit directly to the amp
Amp pin 9-Right sub Speaker input (-)
Amp pin 10-Right subSpeaker input (+)

Amp pin 8-Left sub Speaker input (+)
Amp pin 3-Left sub Speaker input (-)

You will have to cut and separate these wires from the amp. Leave plenty of wire to make the connection from the sub woofer jacks from the back of the head unit directly to the amp.

If you run into any obstacles, PM me and I’ll send you my phone number so that we can review over the phone.

 

I could not have hoped for a better explanation to do this, thank you for the time spent on the marked up diagrams and schematics. I really appreciate the help, a real life saver.
When I do the PDF for the How To you will get total credit for the wiring, as they say I could not have done it without you.
I have no idea who 'They' are but ...........

I am 77 and partially deaf, I have always had a lead ear, but now certain ranges are way out of my hearing range but I still want it to be good even if I cannot appreciate it.

 

Mods please make this a "Sticky"

 

180,
i belive you’ll need one of these. I refrrred to it with a link in the earlier PM

i kust couldnt get the image to stick in the PM

 

I have the adapter, it is the same one used when I had the Infinity navigation radio installed.
The adapter site came through on the PM just fine, just not the one you have just posted here.