it started when we changed all the brakes on my 2004 coupe. everything was fine except the brake light was on. the reason was that we had forgot to bleed the brakes. great, so we did and everything was fine until a week later, i get an abs light and decided to ignore it. 2 days later i get check engine light. now i have the "steering wheel" light, check engine and abs on all at the same time. today i went to autozone and got my car obd scanned and got the codes P0600 and P0720. after reading a little on the forums.. i am still confused. can anyone help me?

 

Google is your friend. Your problem here is that you have a Crossfire with an automatic transmission.
I'd sell the damn thing. In fact, see my sigline - I DID sell my automatic (but not cause of this problem, thought I was losing my job .... ).

ANYWAY, best way to find the answer is to google this:

"Mercedes P0600, P0720"

You will get a lot of responses, here, I found the most entertaining:

Looks like another "Conductor Plate" issue to me.






Edited thread title - be SPECIFIC and you get help faster !

 

honestly was sad it was automatic as well but it's all good cause it's still an XFire but thank you so much. i will do more research.

 

I wouldn't have an manual! I did that shifting stuff for way too many years and way too many trucks & cars. Besides having to replace the clutch and associated down time; it's just plan hard on aging knees.

 

The P0600 & P0720 are generic codes. When dealing with the transmission it would be a good move to have the codes read by a scan tool that can read the Mercedes embedded codes. You should consider going to an European import repair shop and have them scan the car for codes. It may give you more specific info and make the initial repair the correct repair.

 

both of you guys have been some big help. i will definitely make sure to listen to you guys. i will also come back and update on what's been going w my crossfire! thank you

 

He's right, you know. But he also proves why you should ONLY drive a MANUAL.

 

I cry Uncle and give up Mark; You're right.

 

i'm back on an update. i went to a European repair shop and they charge me $90 for a specific Mercedes obd scan. i told them i had an idea on what it was ( conductor plate) they said it was around $900 for a used one. he mentioned the obd would tell me what is wrong specifically. after reading more and more on the issue, it's pretty common on our transmission. i have found the part/parts online to make it a DIY and was wondering if it's over priced. ( i'll place link) (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/cop...on-service-kit) and i also have images of the infamous 13 pin connector on the transmission of my specific car. posting and asking for opinions and feedback from my fellow members.

 

$85 at amazon : You will also need 2 of these :

 

has anyone bought/used what ala has recommended? it seems to have some negative reviews but some positive ones as well. or should i try getting a used one from a junk yard. my local junk yard seems to have a lot of mercedes in it

 

I was just showing how inexpensive the conductor plate kit can be. I would not go that route, I'd most likely get it from Rob at NeedsWings, or from FCPEuro with the lifetime guarantee.
Those are 200 - 300 or so.
I would NOT get a used one from a junk yard.

 

makes sense. thank you. i will definitely try and find a genuine one.

 

FCPEuro is a reliable and good supplier. That is where I would buy the parts. You really want to do this job just once. It isn't fun.
I assume the trip to the garage who scanned your vehicle did indeed show the problem was the conductor plate? You never really told us what that shop recommended as a repair.
I would not drain any fluid from the tranny until you have bought a dip stick to check fluid level. You will have to break the red tab on the top of the tube so you can check the fluid level. First check it cold so you will have an established starting point when you have made your repairs and are refilling the transmission. CORRECT FLUID LEVEL IS CRITICAL! You will need an infra red thermometer, get it up to 80C and then measure the fluid level again on your dip stick. Do this before you drain the transmission so you have the reference points to use when you complete the job and refill the tranny.
You will want to use the correct Mercedes 236.10 fluid; Pentosin, Valvoline MaxLife ATF or Shell ATF 3403. The complete system takes 8.5 quarts, but you won't need all of that as you will still have some fluid in the converter and back up in the gears after you drop the pan.
When reassembling be certain to tighten all the bolt/screws to proper torque; Too tight or too loose. both will result in leaking fluid.
Good Luck

 

i've noted all instructions 📝. thank you guys. BUT! came across my first problem. STRIPPED DRAIN BOLT FML

last owner couldn't have made it any worse for me. i have no idea how i'll get this out

 

You can take off the pan without removing the drain bolt. I've changed the fluid & filter on lots of automatics which had no drain plug at all. Try and loosen the pan bolts so that the fluid will drain from one of the 4 corners. Dollars to donuts you can find a helpful video on Youtube.

 

we're going through it! did everything as follows now i'm at the hallways point. doing everything carefully and with no rush.

new conductor plate in its habitat

 

everything is back to normal and back to torque. fluid level was matched exactly and everything went fine. last step, i have to run the car to running temperature and check fluid level again. ONE concern. check engine light still on. all other lights turned off except that one. how do i reset the computer? need special computer? ideas?

 

my mistake. i had the dipstick cap off when i turned on the car. (bad idea.) check engine light is off. i will still go get it scanned after it's up to temperature and double checked on fluid level. i have NO LEAKS either 👍

 

stored codes. how do i remove them?