Hello all...
I just bought a 2004 Crossfire last weekend. Great car with low miles ( only 55K ).
I have the dreaded "sticky ignition" issue and it got real bad after my son telescoped the steering wheel outward yesterday.
I already saw the tech sticky above, and it's certain that I'll have to open mine up and take care of the problem.
My question is... would it be easiest to buy the Mercedes part listed in the sticky (Part #A 202 460 09 04 shown in pic) if I can get a new one?
If I did have the new part, would it be plug-n-play?... or would I still have to open the hatch and remove the spring from the new Mercedes part?
There's more than 10 of them available at a reasonable price on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15396198046...MakeTrack=true
I'm just trying to make this process as easy and pain free as possible... and I figure it's not a bad idea to have a backup, just in case things go wrong.
Thanks in advance.

 

Many many members have had reservations about doing this. Being convinced to try they found it super easy & also found new energy in fixing/learning about the crossfire. The tutorial IS super easy to follow (downloadable in the document collection here in the forum). Read it twice or more if needed before you delve in, then make sure you follow the steps in order. Most important, the tools needed, do not try to substitute the tools listed. If you do the result may be a stripped screw or tool. I bet you can do it, and when your done you'll lament how easy it was. If you choose not to try, take the tutorial (printed) to an independent European mechanic and ask how much to do the 'sticky key fix'. Some that chose not to tackle it got good results when paying the labor to fix it. Good luck, whatever your route!


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There is no reason to spend the money but if you want to, go ahead. From what I have heard, the new assemblies may or may not have the offending part, so you've got to open them up and look before you put the new part in.

Just know that, collectively, HUNDREDS of cars have now been fixed without buying parts.

 

There is no reason to buy a new part. You just have to take it out, throw away that little spring and piece of metal and then put it back in place. Here's a video posted on Youtube that is easy to understand. I fixed my issue watching this video that presented around 50k miles. 42,000 views tells you this is a pretty common problem.

 

Thanks for the responses. Between the video and the sticky, it looks pretty straightforward.
I hope to get this done in the next few days. I'll probably do it on Black Friday... since it'll keep me from spending money and fighting the crowds.
Thanks again!

 

One note: At the 6:24 mark in that video he shows you the locking pin that you need to press to slide the ignition to the right and out. On my 2004 (that has a telescoping wheel) that locking pin was not visible... it was hidden just behind the black plastic. I think cars with the telescoping wheel have a different plastic housing there that hides it. I was able to push the black plastic housing in far enough to just barely see it but couldn't get a screwdriver straight on it to press it. I was able to take a small standard screw driver and get it in there at a different angle and press it while it remained hiding just behind the black plastic and sliding the ignition to the right at the same time. Going back in isn't a problem but coming out presented that problem so if you get to that point and don't see that pin don't stress, it is right there hiding behind that plastic panel that is blocking your view of it.

Another problem I had that took me a while to figure out was getting the tumbler and lock back in the ignition with the key in the #2 position. I kept popping it all in and could get the locking ring on flush but the key wouldn't turn. I could put the cylinder/tumbler in the ignition with the locking ring off and the key would turn fine but not with the locking ring on. I then finally realized that for the key to turn you have to twist the locking ring back into it's initial position... It will slide on with the one flat side of the locking ring in the 7 o'clock position but you can't turn the key until you twist the locking ring clockwise so that flat side is back at the 12 o'clock position. Others have had no problem with it but for a while I was stumped and it was because I expected the key to be able to turn but it wouldn't - not until the locking ring is twisted back to the 12 o'clock position. Other than those 2 minor issues, it wasn't near as tough as I thought it was going to be.

 

Okay... I got it done. Getting the key/tumbler back in was a pain, but everything is back together.
I am absolutely POSITIVE that I reconnected the electrical stuff properly.
But, now, the BAS ESP light is staying on.
Anybody know why??
I'm still trying to figure it out as I type this.
Any advice (ASAP) would be very appreciated!

 

So I'm not the only one who had problems with that. I posted too late. You can drive the car with the BAS/ESP light on without concern. Take it out and drive it... get it above 20MPH and it may go out on its own and not come back on again.

 

Yep... and everything works. The black collar around the lock mechanism wouldn't go in because I didn't know about the spring loaded pin on the shaft, which was very hard to push in.
But now I got that darned BAS ESP light on now!
I'll try driving it, as you said.
Did yours do that?

 

I really don't remember but it can happen when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. Driving it a while can remedy whatever the computer brain in the BAS/ESP system is trying to calibrate and understand again. If that doesn't work, we'll certainly figure out the cause of it here and you'll get it fixed. BAS/ESP lights come on all the time for all kinds of reasons but the car can still be driven without risk of damaging anything.

 

If driving it around and getting it over 20MPH doesn't work try this (or try it right now)....

If the power supply was interrupted (battery disconnected
or discharged), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator
light may be illuminated with the engine running. To
re-synchronize the ESP, and cancel the malfunction indicator
light, the steering angle sensor will need to be
recalibrated.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and
then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering wheel back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.

If the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light is still illuminated,
the vehicle should be serviced at an authorized
dealer. NO! WE'LL FIGURE IT OUT! Don't take this car to a Chrysler dealer!

 

Thanks very much!
Just got back and here's what I did...
The light stayed on after driving around for awhile, so I pulled over and parked.
I pressed on the left control adjustment shaft in the gauge cluster as I shut off the car.
I continued to press on it as I restarted the car.
It worked!!! The light is gone! Thanks a bunch for the quick response and all your help!!

Also, my new stereo arrived today. That's going in on Friday!!
I got the Kenwood marine unit below because it's silver and I wanted it to match.
I had them do the pre-wired harness to save time and frustration.
Hopefully, it'll sound good....

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113M32...mnews=17088838

 

Whatever works. Not sure how that cleared a BAS/ESP condition as that solution is a new one to me.

 

Definitely NOT !!!

 

Worked for me my first DIY

 

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There are several videos Mercedes slk is the same on youtube search Crossfire sticky key fix

 

Before you tear anything apart, try jiggling the steering wheel while gently trying to move it. pressure on the steering will sometimes cause it to be hard to move and the key to not come out.

 

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