Unnecessary overkill.
Why should I have to buy bigger wheels and tires just to fit a bigger brake kit on the car?
And how do I know that the master cylinder in the car and the ABS pump is up to the task of pushing 8 front pistons, and 6 rear ones? Is the braking system still perfectly balanced front to rear so that I'm not going to have the rear end of the car rotate me off road while under full braking in a hairpin corner.

No thanks.

BC.

 

1. First of all: you don't have to buy bigger wheels... that's what i should do... (and done...)
2. If you can read well, you can see that it's possible to config the big brake kit. You can also go for the normal upgrade kit, or the same diameter...
3. The question about the master cylinder and abs pump, i just refer you to the basic physics...
4. If you want, you can config you 6 front and 4 rear piston calipers... (like Brembo... or are they also 'unnecessary overkill' ?¿)
5. If you are a track racer, you should be more worried about your original brakes than quibbling about ultra high performance brakes...

Thank you!

Tom

 

i dunno if anyone has thought of this or not, but has anyone with a n/a considered swapping out the brake booster/master cylinder for the srt or c32 unit? the amount of assist and pressure provided by each unit is designed specifically for the brake size and piston count on the calipers. while it may not be an issue at first, you might start to see a rapid decline in brake booster/master cylinder longevity due to increased work on its part.

i know that when i do brake swaps on mustangs using cobra brakes, the pedal feel is still different compared to a cobra and this is because of the difference in the assist by the brake booster/master cylinder. so i always recommend my customers to swap out the booster/master clyinder (they're the intergated on sn-95 mustangs) the same is true with the 3000GT/stealth crowd.

 

I have designed and sold big brake kits in the past and one of the most important things to do is to maintain the braking balance (front to rear) and maintain the volume that is displaced by the pistons. the number of piston doesn't matter but the total surface area of the piston does. The proper way to compare surface area when switching from a single piston floating caliper to a fixed multi-piston caliper is to first measure the surface area of the stock single piston (pi R squared) and then measure and add up the suface area of only one side of the fixed caliper you intend to use. I did this with the n/a caliper and it was very close to the surface area of the Brembo so no other modification is needed. The only difference in feel I have experienced is the car now stops with much more authority!

I am now turning my attention to the rear which could end up stock SRt or something really cool Stay tuned! I prefer to work with MB OEM parts since they are plentiful and much cheaper than aftermarket. MB has used some really nice hardware on various cars. It is just a matter of finding out what will bolt on our cars.

 

oh i'm very aware of the math and formulas, not to mention the importance of hydraulic pressure. i'm a mechatronics engineering student at GT (but i'm not a rumblin reck! ) and i've got an AAS in automotive technology. i just didnt wanna get to into it and loose some people...

oh that note, i'm glad to see that somebody took the time to crunch the numbers, i had planned on doing in myself in the future.

 

I am finally very happy with my brakes. While I initially set out to do C32 brakes, I ended up with the same thing except instead of 345mm (13.5") rotors I have 330mm (13.0") rotors. My calipers are CL500/S class which are the same as C32 except made for 330mm rotors. I used SRT front rotors which were Ebay drilled and slotted. The brakes had a horrible squeal so I changed to Disc Italia which in my opinion are worse than the ebay rotors. They appeared to be indentical castings except the disc Italia rusted very quickly where the pads don't contact them. The Disc Italia's were also just as noisy. Last week I switched to factory OEM rotors that I bought at the MB dealer and now everthing is smooth and quiet. Before switching rotors, I tried to make sure it wasn't the pads. I tried three different pads, (OEM, semi-metallic and Ceramic). The ceramics were the quietest but still had a loud squeal just before I came to a complete stop. I am now very happy with the CL500 calipers, SRT/SLK32 rotors and posiquiet pads.

for guys on a budget, the MB/Brembo's from an S/CL class are much more plentiful and cheap. The rotors are also cheap as well.

I just bought a very unique set of rear calipers from a S/CL 65. These calipers are also Brembo but are four pistion and look just like the front calipers but smaller. With these calipers I will be able to run vented rotors on the rear. Not sure if these will work but will let everyone know. I will post pictures of them as soon as they arrive. Should have them by next Monday or Tuesday.

 

This reminds me, why haven't i taken my calipers to get re-painted? I just bought them and forgot, Doing that this weekend if i can. Hey Lantana, Have you seen two piece rotors for this set up?

 

No I haven't but next time you are at the Mercedes dealer have them pull a SLK32 rotor and a 2006 E350 4 Matic rotor and let me know if they look inter changable. The 4 Matic rotor is drilled. There are companies that will sell you separated hats and rotors to build your own two piece rotor. wilwood is one of them.

 

Here is a site that has two piece for the C32....someone else posted this......I need to wear out the used C32's I just put on so I can buy these.....19lbs vs 26lbs....


C32 - RacingBrake.com

 

Nice find!
Did you read that they redesigned the rotors to 340mm?
These rotors measure 340mm in diameter versus OE 345mm. RacingBrake specifically designed these rotors to this size to better align the brake pad with the outer edge of the rotor.
That's interesting...

14lbs all together that you could drop from just changing rotors! I wonder if there are rear two piece rotors out there.

 

Those look really nice!

 

They may look nice but if you read on the website they say don't use the drilled/slotted for racing or hard braking, they tend to crack. apparently the best ones are the open slotted.

 

When I was building brake kits for the Mini Cooper, the racers prefered plain rotors with no drill or slotting. The rotors I supplied were actually from the Toyota twin turbo Supra. Most of the street cars got slotted only and only a couple of people went for drilled and slotted. slotted rotors rarely crack but it is much more common for drilled rotors to crack and most of the guys just thought drilled rotors were like cheese graters on their pads. Slotted rotors were good for cleaning any glazing off, but good race pads don't glaze which is why the racers preferred plain.

 

I think I'm going to go plain for now but definitely getting the open slotted down the road.

 

I have been running slotted Power Disk on the Aero for a year and really like them. When it is time to change the used C32 rotors I just put on, I will go with slotted again. Or maybe those open slotted.

edit: And the C32 calipers are much lighter than the OEM ones.

 

Hi,

in added you can use caliper and disc (345mm) from E55 AMG W210 and CLK55 AMG W208 they will fit on 3.2V6 and SRT6 Crossfire. You dont need any differnet hydraulic pump or anything else, only plug and play.

On my Crossfire 55 V8 AMG I set up from an CLK55 AMG W208 and they works very well and I used the factory rims.

regards V8 Max.

 

a pair available...

C55 front calipers for sale! - MBWorld.org Forums

 

$400, damn that's a pretty penny. I got front and backs for $260

 

If price is a consideration, C32, c55, CLK55 all use the same brakes but they are more rare and expensive. If you are willing to run SRT 330mm rotors you can run the same type caliper from a S or CL class which is much more common and can be bought cheap. If you click on the link above and look at the pictures of the C32 caliper for sale you will see a little offset where it bolts to the spindle. The S and CL class doesn't have this offset which is why you must use four flat washers to make up the difference. Other than that it is plug and play. I have this set up and it works very well.

 

CL500 Front Calipers