In The Middle of the Brake Job
... and found my first rotor is rusted on. I removed the single bolt in it, and the calipers are out of the way. How the crap do I get this thing to move?
Last edited by amcordo; Mar 20, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
If you have the calipers off and the one bolt through the rotor out, just give it a few whacks with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer.
MikeR
MikeR
OK, so one more question
:
I got the driver rear installed and they look great and also work to stop the car BUT... I'm hearing constant noise from them - just a quiet rub like the pads are rubbing the rotor while driving back and forth in my driveway. Is that normal for newly installed pads and rotors? If yes, how long should I expect for them to break in, and if no how do I go about getting the pads away from the rotor?
:I got the driver rear installed and they look great and also work to stop the car BUT... I'm hearing constant noise from them - just a quiet rub like the pads are rubbing the rotor while driving back and forth in my driveway. Is that normal for newly installed pads and rotors? If yes, how long should I expect for them to break in, and if no how do I go about getting the pads away from the rotor?
here is my diy:
ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Tools Required:
flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
Steps to follow:
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)
3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.
4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.
5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.
7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.
8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.
9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.
10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).
11.) Reinstall sensor wire.
12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.
13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.
14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.
15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.
ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Tools Required:
flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
Steps to follow:
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)
3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.
4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.
5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.
7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.
8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.
9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.
10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).
11.) Reinstall sensor wire.
12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.
13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.
14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.
15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.
Here's the EASY way to break your rusted rotors loose.
The skinny is to use the mounting holes from the caliper anchor bolts, a bolt and a nut, with a washer between the bolt and the caliper. Use the nut as an anchor and tighten the bolt until it begins to push the caliper off. Back it off and rotate the rotor 90 degrees and repeat. Do this until you walk the rotor off.
You WILL have to really torque down the bolt to get the caliper to budge sometimes. Mine snapped loose and it sounded like a gunshot. Scared the Jeebies outta me...
Cheers!
The skinny is to use the mounting holes from the caliper anchor bolts, a bolt and a nut, with a washer between the bolt and the caliper. Use the nut as an anchor and tighten the bolt until it begins to push the caliper off. Back it off and rotate the rotor 90 degrees and repeat. Do this until you walk the rotor off.
You WILL have to really torque down the bolt to get the caliper to budge sometimes. Mine snapped loose and it sounded like a gunshot. Scared the Jeebies outta me...
Cheers!
Last edited by MMZ_TimeLord; Mar 20, 2009 at 09:10 PM.
Hmmmmm, when I did my brake job I actually found two drilled and tapped holes near the center of the hub that accepts a couple of small metric bolts one can use to back the rotor/ hub assembly off the spindle.
Wish I could remember what size those were
Wish I could remember what size those were
Stogey,
Where these on the front or rear? I had a heck of a time on the rear ones as there is a dust shield and drum brake assembly behind the rotor hat.
Where these on the front or rear? I had a heck of a time on the rear ones as there is a dust shield and drum brake assembly behind the rotor hat.
If I remember right, it was the rear the fronts came off by hand.
Don't know if those were stock rotors. I'm not "Rosey's" orginal owner.
No had to be the front, cause you're right the rear has the park brake assy. back behind there. Geez, I've slept since then and a few more brake jobs in between !
Don't know if those were stock rotors. I'm not "Rosey's" orginal owner.

No had to be the front, cause you're right the rear has the park brake assy. back behind there. Geez, I've slept since then and a few more brake jobs in between !
Last edited by Stogey; Mar 24, 2009 at 11:55 AM.
Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord
Stogey,
Where these on the front or rear? I had a heck of a time on the rear ones as there is a dust shield and drum brake assembly behind the rotor hat.
Where these on the front or rear? I had a heck of a time on the rear ones as there is a dust shield and drum brake assembly behind the rotor hat.
the emergency brake is a little drum brake on the inside of the rear rotors. That is why you have to be very carefull with your lug bolt length....
MikeR
MikeR
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