^^^ That is my plan....... glad to hear they work good......


maybe I should rent them out and make some $$$$......

 

Ya they do work great makes life alot easier.....good idea Mike's crossfire special tool rental.....

 

I'm confused; weren't you running Vogtland springs? I've noticed a trend lately of everyone switching from aftermarket back to stock cut springs. Are they really that superior from the get-go?

 

Based on that, it should be real easy for Steve. I think he's on his 4th rehearsal...

 

LOL....... That was just wrong!!! But, it is soooo funny at the same time. Sorry Steve.

 

Guys, I need help. I got the suspension apart. I had to unhook the sway bar to get the forward bolt and spring out but no biggie. Getting it together ..... the rear A arm bolt wasn't too bad because it was easy to find a good place to pry. The front bolt I have all the way to the other side with no real pressure on it but the A arm needs to move inward about 3/8 of an inch. No matter how or where I push or pull I can't get it through the back hole. Does anyone have an idea where to pry or how to get the arm to move where it needs to be? I gave up for the day but I want to give it another go in the morning after I've regained my patience and strength. Until the second bolt I was thinking how easy it was. Now I'm worn out and frustrated. To review. The cut spring is in. The sway bar is re connected. The rear A arm bolt is in and the nut on. The front A arm bolt is installed until the hole in the rear where it goes through the frame and needs the A arm to move inwards to get the bolt all the way in. I need some helpful hints or secret techniques.

Les

 

les you arent alone!!! i fought this setup 4 times so far. what i did was to take a drift and drive it thru to line up the hole. (an old bolt will work also. long enough to go thru and be able to knock back out) then knock it back out and insert the bolt. look at the torx end of the bolt. it has a male slot that needs to line up to the control arm. mark the head of the bolt were the slot is on both parts and drive it home. there isnt a simple way other than jack placement and trial and error. lots of error!!

 

A few pictures of my day of suffering. Stock spring minus 3/4 coil and Eibach. The rotor is supposed to have some surface rust, just in case your wondering. The instructions say to wash well with soap and water to remove the rust inhibiter. If you don't see rust they need another wash. If you don't, the pads won't bed in properly.

Les

 

i never had a problem lining up the lower a-arm bolts, i just push up, lol.
The first time was a *****, but its been apart about 5 times since, so i got really good at it

 

did you get all 4 cut springs on the car? so you went with 3/4 a coil on all 4 springs? how does it ride/handle now? did you get it on the track? if so did it perform better?

let me know, i have a set in the spare room ready to cut lol.

Thanks!

 

I cut 1 coil off the rear springs (too much) and 3/4 coil off the front (too much). If I could undo and redo I'd go 3/4 off the rear and 1/2 off the front.

I never got the bolt in but I'm not giving up! Saturday is another free day so I'll get it finished then. If it happens quickly I'll try the passenger side. The rush to get it done ended when I got a good look at my tires. I'd hoped to get another track day out of them but I've corded them a little. When I finally get finished, get the new tires, get an alignment with the new adjustable camber bars, get to the track, I'll report.

I did get the BBK on and when the springs are done I'll bed them in and report on them too.

Les

 

Photoman, talk to BrianBrave. He took 1 coil off rear and 3/4 off front and installed 1 dot pads front and rear. His thread says he dropped 2" in the rear........

 

thanks, yeah i know. i was just looking for around 1/2" to 3/4" drop at the most. Honestly i think 1/2" would be plenty. around here 2" would cause me to drag and I got taller tires on the rear 285/35/19 and i would most likely have rubbing issues. my offset on my wheels have the tires even with the fenders too so i would risk hitting the sidewall if i went very low.

i may just cut 1/2 a coil off the rear springs and just leave it at that.

if it negatively affects the handling though i am not going to do it since i road race the car.

 

It doesnt affect handling at all, if anything it feels firmer, I only did my rears, safe yourself a headache and leave the front it's probably the worst thing to try and ever modify on this car.

 

The front are little tuff the first time - but if your patient it shouldn't be killer. I let the floor jack to all the work.

 

lol that is the exact floor jack i have, love it. harbor freight!

 

I have no complaints here, It rides much firmer, handles so much better. But little things like dips in the roads, bumps, etc you notice alot more.

And with the the rubber you have on the back you'll definitely have rubbing issues if you go over an inch or so, but alot of the guys just tap out the inner fender wells a bit.

I envy you people with a clean garage

 

I'm thinking of going with a deep **** carpet to soak up the spills just a little bit better...

 

Together at last! I went to the basement and gave it another go but it became obvious real quick that I couldn't get it alone so I called the security guard and he helped me by telling me that working on the car wasn't allowed in the Condo and wiggling the wheel while I pushed that pesky bolt in. With a helper it really is a piece of cake. Without one it's a living hell. I still have to do the passenger side but now I'm not intimidated or worried about failure.

Les

 

"wiggling the wheel"

by that do you mean you left the wheel and tire on?