opinion on which rotor to order
i'm ordering some drilled and slotted rotors for my front and from what little searching i've found i think i want to choose between breakperformance premium rotors, or r1 concept premium rotors and posi quiet extended wear pads. the r1 concept package will cost a little more.
can somebody help me with my decision, its really hard to make a choice with what i've read thus far and looking at pictures on my comp screen. thanks
can somebody help me with my decision, its really hard to make a choice with what i've read thus far and looking at pictures on my comp screen. thanks
I have R1 on front and rear. The front ones saved my life a couple of times during the Cannonball run or excessive canyon drivng in Cali!
Go with R1 drilled and slotted for the front but leave the rear ones "plain". I get an annoying whisper from them.
But R1 is worth the extra money!
Go with R1 drilled and slotted for the front but leave the rear ones "plain". I get an annoying whisper from them.
But R1 is worth the extra money!
The R1 rotors should be very good.... I agree that you probably dont need to change the rears... I am running C32 rotors/calipers on the front of the Aero and stock SRT in the back..... They work great!!
These are the ones I want to put on the Aero when the C32 rotors wear out.....
C32 - RacingBrake.com
Too bad they dont make them for the SRT, 330mm rotor.....
These are the ones I want to put on the Aero when the C32 rotors wear out.....
C32 - RacingBrake.com
Too bad they dont make them for the SRT, 330mm rotor.....
ok, i'll get just the front rotors for now and decide on rear later to stretch the financial impact. which would be a better pad out of the posi quiet or akebono, or any others?
one of our members has some nice rotors at a good price check it out he is freakingfastsrt6 and the post is
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-set-sale.html
good luck. jim
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-set-sale.html
good luck. jim
well i just ordered the eur ceramic premium pads with sensors
i'm getting suggestions about using oem style rotors on the rear unstead of slotted or drilled. would this not cause a little unballanced feel? i already feel like my car favors the front too much when breaking hard and i don't want it to get any worse.
i'm getting suggestions about using oem style rotors on the rear unstead of slotted or drilled. would this not cause a little unballanced feel? i already feel like my car favors the front too much when breaking hard and i don't want it to get any worse.
Its really what you desire...if your feeling like that now it won't change a bit if your only changing the front. I would advise you to do all 4 and get it over with...As for the your braking needs and wants.... Look up Centric brakes....they are the leader and formost experts in this industry. Keep in mind if the company your ordering your brakes from is giving a lifetime warranty on a rotor and pad, know that the the brakes your being supplied with are basically a lifetime working POS! So I would not walk away from those type of brakes I WOULD RUN! Before spending your money make sure you do all of your research...most of all take your time!
Good luck with your find
Good luck with your find
Originally Posted by tashspop
well i just ordered the eur ceramic premium pads with sensors
i'm getting suggestions about using oem style rotors on the rear unstead of slotted or drilled. would this not cause a little unballanced feel? i already feel like my car favors the front too much when breaking hard and i don't want it to get any worse.
i'm getting suggestions about using oem style rotors on the rear unstead of slotted or drilled. would this not cause a little unballanced feel? i already feel like my car favors the front too much when breaking hard and i don't want it to get any worse.
Last edited by freakingfastsrt6; Feb 22, 2011 at 12:18 PM.
I dont think there is any change in the feel if you change the fronts to drilled and slotted and leave the rears plain. Dont see why there should a difference, especially since most of the braking is done with the fronts anyways.
Go with R1 and get irritated. Mike says they are good, I believe in them and I know another member who had them on his car and who never had a problem with them!
Go with R1 and get irritated. Mike says they are good, I believe in them and I know another member who had them on his car and who never had a problem with them!
Well its important to know the difference in what your buying. When i say ebay specials, im saying companies such as R1 uses mainly economy line brake rotors and drill and use diamond slots Which is never recommended. Now look and this perspective call the company R1 and ask a price for a set of srt6 brake rotors and pads and make sure your getting a decent name on the pads not their own version of a ceramic brake pad which will crack under pressure...bet your bottom dollar that the price will be above 500...cause now this company has to buy either premium or power alloy! ::NOTE:: cause they do not make an economy line srt rotor, meaning now they are paying more to have the rotor drilled slotted and zinc plated and of course paying more for the rotor itself! Centric uses and sells 3 lines of rotors-economy, premium and power alloy. Companies like R1 use economy rotors but market premium rotors thats why there able to price so low. Fact is R1 does not make their own rotors they are supplied by Centric as most companies are. But all of these companies that you see on ebay like the two your looking at are buying from the same company and have the same process with a different name. Difference is non of these companies offer power alloy and non of them are direct with what you are getting and unless you are opening and cracking the rotor to see how they are built you will never know what you are getting! Power alloy is a technology that centric has branded and is an iron formula that results less wear and cracking and have internal directional venting vanes. Same formula that they use on their stoptech brand rotor. So bottom line is you never know what your gonna get when buying from a company such as R1 so as stated when considering brakes and how important they are, i would rather pay to have the real deal and piece of mind vs paying for something like an economy rotor thats drilled and slotted. The stock brakes on these cars are great, as stated before do not rush into buying anything....take your time and be HARSH with yourself!!!!! its your car and your brakes!! Good luck
Note
Economy rotor- standard rotor no drill or slot
Premium- drill and slotted or either or great weekend warrior upgrade
Power alloy-slotted mainly for tracking but you can have them dimpled or drilled
::note:: all the srt6 brake rotors i sell are power alloy
Note
Economy rotor- standard rotor no drill or slot
Premium- drill and slotted or either or great weekend warrior upgrade
Power alloy-slotted mainly for tracking but you can have them dimpled or drilled
::note:: all the srt6 brake rotors i sell are power alloy
Last edited by freakingfastsrt6; Feb 23, 2011 at 11:00 AM.
i tried and tried to beat the rotors off the car but i can't get them to budge. i did remove the retaining screw, they are just seized on. i think im going to have to take it to a shop and pay them to do it.
IMAG0347.jpg
IMAG0346.jpg You must remove the little phillips screw out from the hub
IMAG0349.jpg you must remove the cap to get to the clip ring.. removing the cap on mine was hard cause it was siezed on, so I replaced them from mercedes $20 for the 2 after removal as you dont want any dirt getting into the splines of the hub...the remove clip ring with allen key
IMAG0351.jpg you must removed the hub from inside the rotor, should come out rather easy if not...take a mallet and from top to middle till it drops...or if your just going to throw away the rotor anyway go ahead and stand the rotor up and let it drop to the ground the vibration alone will let it fall out.
IMAG0346.jpg You must remove the little phillips screw out from the hub
IMAG0349.jpg you must remove the cap to get to the clip ring.. removing the cap on mine was hard cause it was siezed on, so I replaced them from mercedes $20 for the 2 after removal as you dont want any dirt getting into the splines of the hub...the remove clip ring with allen key
IMAG0351.jpg you must removed the hub from inside the rotor, should come out rather easy if not...take a mallet and from top to middle till it drops...or if your just going to throw away the rotor anyway go ahead and stand the rotor up and let it drop to the ground the vibration alone will let it fall out.
Originally Posted by tashspop
i tried and tried to beat the rotors off the car but i can't get them to budge. i did remove the retaining screw, they are just seized on. i think im going to have to take it to a shop and pay them to do it.
Last edited by freakingfastsrt6; Mar 1, 2011 at 12:08 PM.
I used to sell a big brake kit to the Mini Cooper guys. My kit was based on the Toyota Supra twin turbo rotor. My stardard rotor was from R1 concepts and my premium kit used Toyota TRD rotors. In about 50 sets of R1 I had two issues. One time they sent me two left rotors and one time I received a slightly warped rotor. They took good care of me and replaced the defective rotors very quickly.
I love the ceramic pads from Posi-Quiet which is part of Centric. No dust and very easy on the rotors with great stopping power. These pads will not only last longer, your rotors will last longer too.
I love the ceramic pads from Posi-Quiet which is part of Centric. No dust and very easy on the rotors with great stopping power. These pads will not only last longer, your rotors will last longer too.
Are the NA rotors mounted that much differently than the SRT6?????
The only thing holding the SRT rotor is the one little bolt between the lugs.. front and rear. I did have a problem with one of my rotors being stuck but was able to get it off....I believe I used a hard rubber mallet or a dead blow mallet... it has been a while...
The only thing holding the SRT rotor is the one little bolt between the lugs.. front and rear. I did have a problem with one of my rotors being stuck but was able to get it off....I believe I used a hard rubber mallet or a dead blow mallet... it has been a while...
My experience was like Mikes. The only things that had to come off were the wheel
phillips screw, calipers and I used a big rubber mallet. On one rotor I used a hammer with a block of wood to break it loose. POC! (piece of cake)
Les
Les
alright, you are almost confusing me with this phillips screw stuff. could be different years had different bolts maybe? mine had a allen head bolt in it so looking at the face of the rotor i have five lug bolt holes and one smaller hole where the allen bolt was. is there another phillips screw somewhere else?
Don't be confused. I can't remember if it's allen or phillips but each rotor has 1 and 1 only that holds it on. If I could only find those pictures I took.
Les
Les




