I installed the Eibach Pro springs and Koni adjustable shocks some time ago and have enjoyed the improvement in handling but the ride has always been stiff......just like everyone else....

Today I installed my adjustable sway bar links to take the pre-load off the sway bar and let it work like it should.... I just took a ride to Costco and I am VERRRRRRY happy... shortening the sway bar links fixed something that I didn't know wasn't working right..... my rear shocks! They now absorb all those bumps and bridge joints like before I changed the springs.... I really can't believe how much difference it made. I was looking for bumps just to test it more....

Now I know why Les' race buddies say it will improve his traction.... keeping the tires on the pavement should help him on bumpy areas...

To make it easy to find I am adding the sway bar links install procedures here.

 

That's a good point, buddy! I'll have to whip up a pair to try that out.

 

It it neccesary by every car that been lowered to replace a adjustable sway bar links? Just neet to lower it 35mm

 

Necessary??? No....
I don't know of anyone that has done this... big reason is because nobody was making an adjustable, or shorter, sway bar link and we just never thought about it.... I made these to fill a specific request from Les and have found a wonderful side benefit...... a smoother ride on my lowered car....

 

Today I installed one side with Mikes adjustable links. On the other side, being in a hurry, I rounded off the bolt on the upper end of the stock link so being still in a hurry I decided to finish when I had more time. I shortened the one side by 1" exactly and the other has the stock link ...... because I was in a hurry and out of time. To cut to the chase, I had the car out for some errands and just arrived home. OMG MIKE!!!!! Talk about understatement! The ride is improved so much I just can't get over it! If the improvement on the track is a fraction of the street improvement I'm going to have a medal of honor commissioned for achievement above and beyond the call of duty. People, if your lowered, run, don't walk, and get these. I just don't have words. How would've thought? Mike, we've stumbled on something great.

Les

 

Les, glad to see you got the same results as me.... it really is a dramatic difference....

Now get the rest of the work done on you car and let's see how they do on the road course....

 

Guys I'll take your word for it. But I don't understand how the sway bar is causing a hard ride. Is it resting against something causing the binding or? I will have to take a closer look at the system when I have the rear wheels off next time. Unless the car is leaning, I don't see how there is any preload or pressure on the sway bar.

Curious to find out about this. James

 

The sway bar link is mounted to the lower control arm, right next to the shock. It looks like the loading of the sway bar/sway bar link that occurs when lowering is taking load off(or compressing) the shocks and putting it straight to the body via the sway bar. So the shocks don't appear to be able to use the full travel and absorb those bumps and dips. At least that is what it looks like to me.

When you lower the car the lower control arm moves up. This is what exaggerates the negative camber in back. It also pushes the fixed length sway bar link up, which pushes the sway bay up just like you were cornering. Only it is seeing that load ALL the time, on both sides. Since the sway bar is mounted directly to the chassis, those bumps get transmitted directly to the chassis as well. Could this be part of the reason some of the sway bar mounts are breaking????

 

The sway bar is essentially an extra spring that should be working or helping mostly when cornering or leaning. The sway bar linkage, well the whole sway bar system, is fixed. Lowering completely takes the sway bar system outside it's designed position. I had no idea how bad it was until installing one of Mikes links. It seems from my brief observation that on a lowered car the tension on the bar and linkage interferes with shock travel. The bar takes the forces instead of the shocks. I really don't know. I just know that any lowered car will ride better once this situation is corrected based on preliminary results. At this point I would say "just do it". I'm still in shock ..... really!

Les

 

Mike - Looking forward to the end links arriving and getting them installed.

Any chance of something similar for the front sway bar? If so count me in.

 

front sway bar mounts via rubber bushings and slides side to side as the wheel turns so no links involved.

 

Thanks. I figured it was something like that but it has been too long since I looked at the front setup and to be honest never paid much attention to it.

 

I'm not lowered yet, but you know my car won't stay that way for long...

Excellent product Mike

 

OK, I'm really interested in this. How much for a set of these, how difficult (or straightforward) is installation, and is anyone planning on doing a write up on the install any time soon?

 

Damn it, Mike, between you, Max, and Med, I can not quit spending on this car...

How much and how difficult will this mod be?

 

The sway bar links are $150 shipped for 2 more buyers..... then it is $150 + $15 shipping...

The install is very easy and takes about 15 minutes per side..... I will do the other side of my car and do a write up and pics... you remove the wheel, take off one nut at the sway bar mount and a nut and bolt on the bottom at the control arm and then install the new link.... adjusting them to length before you install.... or I could just send them set-up 1" shorter than stock...

 

Forgive the questions as I'm not a suspension guru, but is there any need for an alignment after doing this? I know alignment parameters can be pretty tight so are there any issues if the length adjustment is off by a bit here - like 1/8 or 1/16 inch?

 

Mike, I can't say positively but I don't think this will make any difference in the alignment....we are just taking the load off the sway bar and letting the shocks use their full range again....

I need to take mine in for an alignment since I just swapped out the TVT camber arms for mine...(I made them the same length so it shouldnt be off by much, if at all).....

 

I have had the new sway bar links in for a week now and am very happy.... I think I have found another advantage to them.... the rubbing I was getting in the back on sharp bumps seems to be gone..... I haven't heard a rub on hitting any bumps this week.... bridge joint, sharp bumps or dips are all handled well... just like a non-lowered car.... I will keep testing and looking for bumps to test.... not potholes!

Hopefully Les will give us some feedback after this coming weekends race.....

 

I got them in yesterday but need to verify that pre load is neutral. My plate is full all week getting the car ready and birthdays for the neighbors dogs. Women and animals!

Les