I would do the independant shop..... unless it is a warranty job and you dont have to pay for all the parts the dealer will swap in trying to fix it....

MrMoPar probably has a couple of ABS units available if you need one.....

 

I will just get a diagnosis from the computer if they can manage that. The sad part is no lights and no codes, maybe there is a secret LRTS* code that they can find. LOL

* Lets Rob This Sucker

 

I think that code is already in the book..... in several places.... special addendum....

 

I'm just an old shade tree tech and I have not researched our manual yet (rhyme ), but it kinda sounds like the vacuum booster could be suspected Will stay tuned for results. (had to replace one and the master cylinder in my old honda; brake fluid may have leaked into the booster)

 

If the master is internally bypassing. then when constant pressure is held against the pedal it will stay rock hard. If you just release a little of the pressure then the pedal will go down or bypass. Just an idea may not be the problem. good luck

 

This was a problem mentioned on a Mercedes forum, the seal between the booster and the master cylinder was left off and the oil was sucked into the MC when the MC cylinder seals failed. I do not have any fluid loss so I have discounted this, thanks for the idea though.

I cannot simulate this, thanks again for the idea.

I took the car to my local Chrysler and asked about getting the ABS system bled as it has to be cycled with the computer attached to the car. The system is then re bled normally. I was told they do not have too many Crossfires to work on so the manager was going to phone Chrysler and get some hints. We shall see what happens there.

I am going to look into the possibility that a piston is a bit tight and the seal is not retracting the piston when the pressure is released. I cannot see this causing my problem but I think that I can hear a pad rubbing for a while after the pedal is released.

I am also going to put the OEM pads back on, I know what they sound and feel like from my first Crossfire.

 

The master bypassing internally will not leak any fluid out. the piston will bypass in the cylinder only. sorry for the mis perception on my part

Otis

 

My comment on fluid leakage applied to the post by CrossLover not yours.

 

As per the instructions in the service manual, make sure your not pumping the brake pedal. (old school habit)

This could compress the air trapped in the system into tiny bubbles that will distribute throughout the system.

I used a filler reservior and just gravity feed each brake into a can.



Hope this helps you out..

 

I agree. During bleeding this ABS system pumping the pedal is a no no. I used the reservoir bottle and a vacuum system the hooks to the bleeder and it worked perfectly when I upgraded to the SS lines.
Gravity bleeding can be done but takes a long time is you have air far back in the system.

 

I went to my local dealership and they said they would get in touch with Chrysler and ask for tips on how to check my ABS system, I found that very encouraging - not. Anyway they have not got back to me and I have been there twice to remind them. I suspect they are not interested in the problem.
As I stated before I have come to the conclusion that the master cylinder has partially failed. I suspect that the seal on the piston that pressurizes the rear brake system leaks.

The rear pads rub and do not back off after the pedal is released, I suspect this is because the the seal does not return the piston and bring it back a few thou as it should and allow the pads to float away from the rotor. In my research on this I found out how the seals in the callipers work. Elementary my dear Watson.

I have contacted MrMopar for a master cylinder three days ago, I have not received a reply, this appears to be normal. I shall look elsewhere until he contacts me.

 

I have a re manufactured master cylinder, MrMoPar said that with shipping it may be nearly as cheap, not, but reman is less risk.

Question, my master cylinder has only one pressure switch on it, the repair manual shows two and the new master cylinder has ports for two. How many pressure switches on your MC?

I was surprised to see only one, the brake warning light should go on I believe if there is a great pressure differential between the front and rear brakes systems normally. But with one there is no light.

 

My 04 limited has 1 pres switch

 

Thanks Mario, I looked for wires and could not see any, so I figured the Repair Manual is in error again. I just have to plug that hole. An NPT plug might do it, I'll try anyway.
Edit
Not NPT. Find another fitting.

 

Being German, my guess is European ORB(Oring boss). If you cant find one, Let me know what size, I have a few at work from when I was working on Liebherr's

 

I'm going to ask them to get me a plug for the hole, if they sell it for a Crossfire it should fit right out the box. Cardone will take my old one as a casting return and the next buyer will be OK, so I should get a plug or one with only one pressure sensor hole.

The Cardone part number for the master cylinder is 11-3128.
EDIT, NOT True, this part has outlets for two pressure sensors and we have only one and Cardone does not have any plugs.

I am going to try Cardone part number 10-3985, hopefully this is the true part number. Cardone has no picture of it and cannot seem to bother to have one looked at. Edit. They do not have one.

 

I installed the master cylinder I got from MrMopar, bled the brakes again and the result was no change. Somehow I expected that. So after four brake bleeds using four and half pints of Motul RBF600 and a different master cylinder fitted I had no change.

Doing what I should have done first, I arranged a test of SparkieSRT6's brakes, they are just like mine.

After obsessing for weeks I have got an answer, these brakes suck as far as I am concerned, with too much pedal travel.

The reason I guess is the small diameter of the MC piston, which only pushes a small amount of oil. I assume that the pistons in the calipers on the SRT are larger in diameter and they need more oil to move them X amount forward compared to my NA with smaller pistons (less?) in the calipers.

It was the difference in pedal travel that I sensed between the two cars. I wish I had thought of the pedal travel difference when I had two cars sitting side by side.

Note to self, you stupid sod.

 

Nah nah nah nah nah...........told you so!

 

You did.
I think it needs a bigger bore in the MC.
The amount of fluid coming out from a pedal depression is very little.

 

Was this issue ever resolved? I have a similar problem.