Well folks, I just upgraded the brake rotors to slotted and drilled rotors and threw your basic metallic pads on.

I decided to do a tutorial to help others out on this topic. I hope some of you benefit from this.

Easy job, but time consuming. I am pretty tired right now, so i guess it is also energy consuming as well

Here are the pics. She stops pretty good. I think she will stop better after a few hundred miles, once everything is broken in.

BEFORE YOU START, POP THE HOOD AND OPEN THE MASTER CYLINDER CAP, SO WHEN YOU PRESS THE PISTONS, AIR CAN ESCAPE FROM THERE.

FRONTS:
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REARS:
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Thank you so much for posting this, this being my first time the pictures and step by step instructions were a huge help. Great write up!

However, those of you who plan on doing this in the future... the wheel lug nuts are 17mm not 18mm like the picture says 18 will work for most of them but it nearly stripped a few bolts of mine i tried 17 out and it fit them all perfectly and i got them off.

 

If I remember correctly, you don't have to remove the caliper to replace the rear pads.

 

I had to to push the pistons in since the new pads are thicker.

 

you just slide a flat tip screwdriver between the ad and rotor to push the piston inside the caliper and allow the new pads to fit

 

 

I'd also like to add something, don't use the clamp alone to push the piston back in. Instead place one of the old pads between the clamp and piston. This evens out the pressure and allows the piston to move back into the caliper without the possibility of jamming.

Don't forget to check your brake fluid. (If you've never changed brake fluid it would be a good idea to do that too.

 

Great pictures! Thanks

 

Thanks for posting this! I'll be doing mine soon.

 

Damn,
I changed the rear rotors easy but do NOt use the parking brake. If you do you will not be able to remove the rotor!

Then, I was ready to do the front. I could NOT remove the bolt that hold the caliper. The rear was easy. The front... just impossible.

If you have an idea... Please share

Thank You,

Max

 

I hate to admit this but I have had times when the bolts were too tight to turn, it is hard to get a good pull on the wrench when you cannot get at it properly., so I get an old wrench, as long as possible and hit the end of the wrench with a large hammer. OUCH!
A small sledge type hammer on a wrench with minimal offset is best.
It ain't pretty, but it works when you cannot get an impact gun in there.

 

I use the same method as 180, except I use a lead-shot dead blow hammer.

 

I found that using a 2' breaker bar with a 16 pt shallow socket allows the caliper bolts to removed easily although it only a permits small amount of rotation (up to 1/8 turn) at a time. I kept a hand on the socket to keep it seated. Work slow and watch those fingers. Total time to swap rotors/pads on both sides was about an hour and a half. With the exception of the use of a breaker bar, I followed directions found within the forum.

 

You would be amazed at how fast they can be removed with an impact wrench.

 

The impact (pneumatic) wrench I have was too deep to fit. Can you recommend one you've found to be of an appropriate size/performance? I'm all about having the right tool for the job. Thanks for the input ala_xfire.

 

I actually did somewhat like you, I broke the bolts loose with a 1/2" 3 foot pull handle, then did the rest with my 3/8" air ratchet.
I misspoke on the impact wrench part, but maybe if the wheel is turned all the way an impact can reach it ?

 

Air ratchet...of course. Been a while since I used it. Forgot I had one. Time to clean out the tool chests. Happy holidays!