I'm detailing each wheel well and tire/wheel. I'm taking each wheel off, one at a time.

I'm going to repaint the lug bolts.

Is it ok to spray WD-40 on the threads to keep them free from corrosion?

Thanks.

DJ
Also I searched for the above question and this next one..

What size wrench is used for the lug bolts?
(I don't want to unpack my tire jack kit)

 

1. lubricating lug bolts : no NONONO
( you will over-torque at 81 ft/pounds if you lubricate )

2. 17 MM socket ( 11/16 will work too )

 

WD40 will work just fine but will probably evaporate away after a while. A couple drops of oil on each stud wouldbe better. I prefer antisieze compound. Be sure to torque them to specs and you won't have any trouble. Been doing it for years and will do for years to come.

James

 

In light of James' reply, I guess I could be wrong, but I was saying what my daddy taught me back in the late 40's, early 50's.
Things may have changed, but in my case, like in James', I too have NOT been lubricating for years and will continue to NOT do so for years to come.

To each, his own, it's all good.

 

http://www.intermotive.net/Tech%20Ti...20Jan%2008.pdf

 

Thank you ever one for the answers so far! Very interesting views!

Really liked the PDF from 32Krazy. nice stuff.

As simple as a bolt is, there are many things to learn.

I"ve used oil in the past...but this car is a different thing for me....a very special car for some reason. And I love it!

keep the info coming!

Thanks again!

DJ

 

Thanks Steve, good to know. Hmm, Rob (Needswings) recommends we torque spark plugs to 21ft/lbs, no mention of wet or dry threads. NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug Set Stock Heat range

Many, here on the forum have suggested using anti-seize on the plug threads, but have made no mention of the torque spec. Assuming 21 ft/lbs is for dry threads, what should the wet torque spec be? Anyone know?

 

Steve, I think some are making mountains out of mole hills. Wet threads on things with such small torque specs should not make a difference to cause damage. Wet or Dry threads on spark plugs, use the torque spec and you will be fine. I prefer wet threads so I don't chance the possibility of removing threads from aluminum heads the next time I remove the spark plugs. Even at the torque specs of wheel studs, I don't see how it cause such an "over torque" to cause problems. On wheel tightness, I think equal tightness is more important than the actual spec (within reason).

When torque is super critical, the application usually calls for specific compound to be applied on the bolts. Such as "International Compound" has been used for years when installing head bolts, main caps, etc... on engines where large torque specs apply.

 

overtorque a spark plug and its an afternoon of bloody knuckles removing it. overtorque an aluminum wheel causing hairline cracks that grow at 130 mph and you spend the next few weeks in recovery room at your local hospital.
do you see guys at the track checking ht e torque of their spakplugs or their wheels? theres a reason we check them

 

Thanks James! MB forums suggested 15-22 ft/lbs torque for spark plugs on the SLK32, I went with 19.5 ft/lbs, anti-seize on the threads, I don't think I'll lose any sleep now.

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Now, to let my feeling be known:

I've been building and repairing machinery for over 30 (!) years. I'm a HUGE fan of lubricants for every minute of it. I specialize in UHV systems and ion sources for particle accelerators. Many of these parts get really hot. Some I can't even use antiseize on-they can reach the brazing or break-down point of the constituent materials.
So I find another lube. I keep a jar of grapite and one of Boron Nitride powder in my shop for high temp uses. Spark plugs just don't get hot enough for it. At least the threads.
I apply it using a flux brush in vanishingly small amounts and wipe off 99% of it before insertion.
And I reduce torque by 20%.

I use it on my lug bolts and nuts too. Same whisper amount and wipe off any I can see.

One is only trying to treat the surface. Not use it as caulk.

Or glue.

Here's a chart on temperatures vs. metal temps:

How to tell what temperature a glowing object (metals) might be:

Doesn’t really matter what the emitter is…stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:

C F Color

400 752 Red heat, visible in the dark
474 885 Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 975 Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 1077 Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 1292 Dark red
800 1472 Dull cherry-red
900 1652 Cherry-red
1000 1832 Bright cherry-red
1100 2012 Orange-red

C= Centigrade
F= Farenheit

 

well ill sleep fine tonight!

 

Not a single mention that a torque wrench was used. All guess work...

 

You old fart-it's New Years Eve!

 

Yeah, I noticed that too. Give 'em a call!

 

Yikes! A lots of info here. Thanks every one! Happy New year!

DJ

 

Thanks Max for the .pdf, wish I saw it before the installation. So, I'm glad I asked the question, which leads to another. I'm 10% under torque spec now. Should I remove the plugs, clean-off the anti-seize and re-install, torque to 21ft/lbs? Are the crush washers now pooched and need replaced?

 

for peace of mind and to know that the job was done properly the answers would be yes, yes and yes.

i wont even start to ask if you indexed the plugs to ensure a complete burn!

 

You are @ 18 now?

I'd leave them. But, that's just me!

 

Now, THAT would require an R&R.

You're still up, Gramps?