So I've joined the Plasti Dip bandwagon and dont the wheels in the matte black finish (pics to follow). The next step is to apply the gloss next weekend.

My question is - Where is the best place to jack the car to raise the front/ rear? I've picked up some jack stands but I'm questioning the safest spot to place the jack as well as the jack stands to remove both fronts/ rears at the same time. It would save me hours if I could lift half the car and knock out 2 wheels at once.

I've seen a cross member bend on a neon due to "guessing" a safe location.

 

You should see jack points behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel...

xf-jack-points_zps7cce5f0d.png

 

Thanks Itsky but I was already aware of those lifting points designed to lift 1 wheel at a time. The issue there is that once you have that spot lifted, you cant place the jack stand there and move to the next wheel. Ideally i need a spot on the front or rear to lift 2 wheels at the same time so i can place the jack stands and work on 2 wheels at once.

 

Good point there. I'd have to take a better look underneath the car to give you a better answer.

 

The body is super rigid. To do the front use the jack on the rear block and raise it up until you can put the stand under the front block, let it down and do the same on the other side. Reverse the procedure for the back.

 

I have 4 jack stands.
To raise my roadster, I do the following :
1. I jack up the rear using the pumpkin (differential), then place 2 stands under the rear jacking points.
2. This then allows me to access the cross member just behind the plastic engine pan to jack up the front and place the other 2 stands under the front jacking points.

Reverse process to put it back on the ground.

 

This ^^^^^^^^

But if your jack is slim enough you can access the crossmember or the diff first.

 

I've done it just as Airscape described (lift the opposite end high enough to place the jack stand in position under the lifting pad). Worked out great. I've always been a bit leery of placing my floor jack under the pumpkin and lifting the car by the differential housing. Just me.

 

I've lifted every car that I have ever owned that way ( by the differential ). I have never had any problems so far doing it that way. I just don't bang around like a bull in a china shop.

 

Agreed. ^^ I like to use a 6"x6" section of hard rubber(horse stall mat)that I cut just for the purpose of cradling/softening the point load. This is some tough stuff! I even lift my diesel crewcab w/ it. LOL @ the "bull in a china shop"; that's what the old man used to call me occasionally.

 

http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

 

Nice! But not at $300.00 a pair.

 

I will never jack a car from the body anymore, unless an emergency. I will always jack from a suspension point, or crossmember, something bolted to the body. The pinch weld jacks are secure, but on my old 2002 Town and Country, I got rust around the jack points after many years, and I am sure it was from the wear and stress of the jack that caused the beginning of the rust. Typically I use car-ramps, and then jack the cars higher from there if needed.

 

Did anyone see the "bull in a china shop" simulation myth buster episode? Kinda put a interesting twist to this statement.

Anyone look at these portible Ranger Quick Ramps? Pretty good clearance underneath, when a two post lift isn't available.

QuickJack - Ranger BL-5000 Quick Jack - Motorsports Race Jack Stands - Race Car Pit Lift - Portable Car Lift - Garage Lift - Ranger

 

I would LOVE something like that

 

Nice, they cost from $900 to $1,300 depending on lift capacity from what I see.

 

That is better that I thought. I would get the 5,000lb one, that should handle just about anything I would use.

 

I think this goes to the top of my "gotta have next" list.
Just need to decide, 3500 or 5000 ?
Probably 5000, then I can also use on the 3700 lb Concorde.