SRT-6: Stiffest springs for stock ride height
Hi everyone,
Since I installed my KONI dampers I feel the car being somewhat loose. I think it may be that the srt-6 springs are knackered or simply just to soft to be able to work with the koni dampers. Anyone done the konis together with stock srt-6 springs? Any verdicts?
So, to cure this somewhat loose feel from side to side, I am thinking of getting stiffer springs but NOT to lower the car. Any suggestions?
I guess the ride height can be corrected using plastic pads.
Brands I know of:
Vogtlands
H&R
Eibach
Any other? Which one is the stiffest?
Many thanks
Since I installed my KONI dampers I feel the car being somewhat loose. I think it may be that the srt-6 springs are knackered or simply just to soft to be able to work with the koni dampers. Anyone done the konis together with stock srt-6 springs? Any verdicts?
So, to cure this somewhat loose feel from side to side, I am thinking of getting stiffer springs but NOT to lower the car. Any suggestions?
I guess the ride height can be corrected using plastic pads.
Brands I know of:
Vogtlands
H&R
Eibach
Any other? Which one is the stiffest?
Many thanks
All the springs you mention lower the car. To keep the ride height you'll need to be a guinea pig, i.e. test options for yourself. Search some of the V-8 springs as a start. The other option for the front is buy Eibach 4" OD off road springs in a 16" length and cut them to fit. (come in 500, 600 and 700 lb.) For the rear it's even tougher because of the odd width.
I used the Koni yellow shocks with the stock SRT-6 springs, Eibachs and cut SRT-6 springs and I had no complaints.
Les
I used the Koni yellow shocks with the stock SRT-6 springs, Eibachs and cut SRT-6 springs and I had no complaints.
Les
All the springs you mention lower the car. To keep the ride height you'll need to be a guinea pig, i.e. test options for yourself. Search some of the V-8 springs as a start. The other option for the front is buy Eibach 4" OD off road springs in a 16" length and cut them to fit. (come in 500, 600 and 700 lb.) For the rear it's even tougher because of the odd width.
I used the Koni yellow shocks with the stock SRT-6 springs, Eibachs and cut SRT-6 springs and I had no complaints.
Les
I used the Koni yellow shocks with the stock SRT-6 springs, Eibachs and cut SRT-6 springs and I had no complaints.
Les
Les, I wonder why I have the feeling of it rocking a bit. You did not have this at stock ride height?
So buying some of the lowering springs and use pads to raise, compensate, is not good?
Also, regarding bump stops on the konis, need to be trimmed on stock ride height? Could it be the issue? Also, how should the pieces in the koni dampers look like? Is it
Thin Plastic piece
Rubber (trimming needed? Should the hole of rubber get drilled / widened so it slides easier on damper pin?)
Cover (that u drill to get hole wider)
Car frame
Rubber
Bracket
Tighten nut.
Thanks for help
I was at stock height with the Koni's and no rocking. I've never had rocking symptoms with any combination of springs, shocks, pads. etc. You have to open up "drill" the bump stops and dust covers for the larger rod the Koni's have. I didn't cut the bump stops. After lowering my car and driving a while I removed the Koni's to cut the bump stops they showed no signs of bottoming out so you don't need to cut them at stock height or lowered unless your lowered a lot. The spring pads, in reality, give very little adjustment and are for "fine tuning" the height. I got the rear of my car too low and stacked the spring rubbers but the spring was almost outside the cup. Bad idea. I didn't leave it that way for long. The Koni yellows were perfect with the stock springs and stock ride height in my car. If your rocking, something else is going on and I don't know what it is.
Les
Les
I was at stock height with the Koni's and no rocking. I've never had rocking symptoms with any combination of springs, shocks, pads. etc. You have to open up "drill" the bump stops and dust covers for the larger rod the Koni's have. I didn't cut the bump stops. After lowering my car and driving a while I removed the Koni's to cut the bump stops they showed no signs of bottoming out so you don't need to cut them at stock height or lowered unless your lowered a lot. The spring pads, in reality, give very little adjustment and are for "fine tuning" the height. I got the rear of my car too low and stacked the spring rubbers but the spring was almost outside the cup. Bad idea. I didn't leave it that way for long. The Koni yellows were perfect with the stock springs and stock ride height in my car. If your rocking, something else is going on and I don't know what it is.
Les
Les
I'm not thinking the bump stops are the problem. Bump stops are used to protect the shock from damage in case you hit a huge hole that would bottom out the shock. In normal driving they just sit on top of the shock and do nothing. If the bump stop is tight on the shaft it will stick high up on the rod where it ends up anyway. First thing I'd do is inspect whats on your car. You may have a broken spring or somehow gotten a bad shock.
Les
Les
I'm not thinking the bump stops are the problem. Bump stops are used to protect the shock from damage in case you hit a huge hole that would bottom out the shock. In normal driving they just sit on top of the shock and do nothing. If the bump stop is tight on the shaft it will stick high up on the rod where it ends up anyway. First thing I'd do is inspect whats on your car. You may have a broken spring or somehow gotten a bad shock.
Les
Les
Might be just me being too greedy. I want it to be like an iron on the road. And i guess that will not be happening with stock springs.
Thanks for all the hints and tips.
But as said, I feel the springs to be somewhat too soft. At high speed, if i do not have the dampers on 80% stiff, then the car is like driving sn old cadillac.
But as said, I feel the springs to be somewhat too soft. At high speed, if i do not have the dampers on 80% stiff, then the car is like driving sn old cadillac.
If you want to experiment and increase the spring rates or limit shock travel you can add additional or taller bump stops. That way they will be helping the springs resist the compression forces. It's a cheap way to feel stiffer springs with less travel. I have a collection of the suckers. I bought mine from Fat Cat Motorsports, however as long as you get quality it doesn't matter who's you use. You could even go to a wrecker if your cheap and pick up some used ones just to play around with them.
Les
Les
The biggest problem with all the springs mentioned besides the eibach off road springs it that are a progressive spring. Meaning as the spring compresses it takes more force to compress it. The problem is that initial compression takes very little force. This wouldn't be as big of a problem if we were able to bup a big anti sway bar on our cars, unfortunately at the moment no one makes one. This really only leaves one solution and that is to use use heaver linear springs such as the eibach off road spring. A linear spring requires the same amount of force to move 1 inch or 1 foot theoretically.
The biggest problem with all the springs mentioned besides the eibach off road springs it that are a progressive spring. Meaning as the spring compresses it takes more force to compress it. The problem is that initial compression takes very little force. This wouldn't be as big of a problem if we were able to bup a big anti sway bar on our cars, unfortunately at the moment no one makes one. This really only leaves one solution and that is to use use heaver linear springs such as the eibach off road spring. A linear spring requires the same amount of force to move 1 inch or 1 foot theoretically.
Do the eibach heavier ones fit?
The h&r bar is like 1 or 2 mm different. We have them installed on the rear. . The change is minimal at best.
Yes the heavier springs work in the front but you have to cut them to length. Just use a cut off wheel, it's pretty simple. The rear is a different story, Not for the*faint*of heart as they require you to remove most of the upper spring cup.
Yes the heavier springs work in the front but you have to cut them to length. Just use a cut off wheel, it's pretty simple. The rear is a different story, Not for the*faint*of heart as they require you to remove most of the upper spring cup.
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