Beaner- You discussed that you had a set of $70 adjusters for the rear camber adjustment. Where did yu find them and what was the part number?

 

Link is under post #10 of this thread!

 

MB-Arts use a chromoly ball rod end which is prone to loosen and squeal obnoxiously, plus the rod is aluminum which can easily strip the threads (read Galvanic stress from dissimilar metals).

Top Speed Pro-1 and Megan use 4-bar rod ends that have the threaded stud welded to the bar end tube. Have read many accounts on other forums about the weld giving way to stress cracks from inferior welds. (I.E. the weld only attaches the outer edge of the stud to the tube). Also, both use smaller-width 4-bar ends whereas the rubber inserts and center sleeves extend past the bar tubes allowing the rod to flex and degrade the rubber.

The Speedway 4-bar rod ends are much stronger being solid forged and the right width to fit in the holders. No flexing and the nylon inserts are more solid. You don't really need a ball end that's moveable and it's been proven that you don't need rubber inserts (see MikeR's setup) to work right. Someone also was worried that the hollow tube wasn't strong enough. The DOM steel tubes are about as strong a steel tube as you can get and are made to collapse to avoid damage to other suspension parts. But these are referring to racing setups where the stresses are 10-fold. On our cars the force needed to collapse the tube would only result from a totalled rear end collision.

In the end you are only paying for the painting and stenciling on the arms that probably have $50 worth of material involved in their makeup!

 

My experience with the Speedy Benz arms. I'm alive because it happened hitting a pot hole at 5 mph and not over 100 at the track.

Les

 

Does that look familiar. That just happened to me yesterday at 60 mph. Freaky! Exact same break location.

 

It's from the sway bar slamming the arm where the threads end. I'll bet if you look you'll find the marks. Mine has them.

Les

 

Does the factory one have a bend in it so it misses the sway bar?

 

The factory camber arm is crescent shaped for extra clearance. I'm pretty low and even my stock camber arms are getting dented from the contact with the sway bar.

Les

 

Do you know of any after market adjustable arms that will work?
Thx,
Brian.

 

No. I'm hoping the Ground Control camber arms solve the interference problem. If they ever decide to sell what they've developed for our cars to us.

Les

 

Never mind.

 

Here is a link to the part I think that should work best for us....
Mercedes Benz R170 SLK-Class 1998-2004 Adjustable Rear Camber Arms pair

 

Why pay 3 times the cost of the DIY setup that produces the same, if not better results?

 

Any of the options out in internet land will work if your not lowered .... and don't need them! If your lowered, NONE work. Clarification, they will allow you to get the alignment in spec and all will be fine until you push the car hard, hit the sway bar causing the rear of the car to suddenly jump sideways and end well or poorly depending on your improvisation abilities with the steering wheel. I haven't found the "perfect" solution yet and I've tried a few of the options available.

Les

 

Les is right. I have the DIYs on both Xfires cause the inner treads on the backs were wearing abnormally. Neither car is lowered and both are running 275/35-19s on the rears. DIY cambers corrected both cars nicely. I don't race/autocross either car. Just "spirited" driving so no problems. Like I've stated before, you'll get the same results from the $80 DIY setups as you will from the $240 brand names if all you're doing is simply correcting the inner tread wear anomaly. DIYs have been tested on both my cars for over 1-1/2 yrs with absolutely no problems.

 

Les,

what's the wall thickness on those?

Would these (pg. 30) be any better? Just the bent tubes with 5/32" wall (.156").
$31.46/ea. (11")

http://www.out-pace.com/op_2012_cata...al_catalog.pdf

One can find the 5/8" or 3/4" LH/RH rod ends one likes.

I think these would work. Cheaply.

 

Which of these would you choose, Max ?

 

I guess the 7/8" if only to make it easier to get ends to fit our 12 mm (1/2") bolts. I would use the nice SST Speedway Motors solid ends, assemble/adjust for max clearance to everything (sway bar) and Loctite (Blue/small screw) the jamnuts.

 

Which bar length ?

 

I'm not sure if the lengths shown are C-to-C for the rod ends or just the bar. Worth a call, I suppose.