And yes, if your front tires are getting close to being worn out, it might make sense to get new front tires and sensors and get all the new TPMS IDs read in at the same time.

 

How/why did they replace them (?), Did they provide them and say they would work (resetting after some time (WRONG!), did you provide the sensors to them and they said they would work, or did you say put them in and they will work? Like the previous posts, they have to be reset to the specific car/system they are installed (to the correct car system using the CORRECT sensors/transmitters). If the light is still on, either the wrong sensors were installed, one or more sensors were not calibrated, or one or more sensors have a low battery (the front?). Too many questions to answer given your situation.


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I give the front tires six to nine months of use, depending on our weather (we’re still in the 90’s & humid). When I called Discount Tires, I said that I wanted to buy new sensors, cloned from the old ones. The guy on the phone paused then said that they have replacement sensors in stock ($60 each). When I picked up the car, I was given the usual “drive around until the system recognizes them or bring it back if it doesn’t work” speech. When it didn’t, another guy showed me his scan tool showing that it needed to be done by a dealer. The nearest dealer service person paused and said that they were willing to look at it... I didn’t get a good feeling from them.

I have a couple of shops that we use that I’m going to call to see if they have the tools to reset the system.

If anyone doing the Dragon run has the tools, I’d rather pay them to do it... just saying.

 

1st, you need to find out if the front sensors are working (how, no idea). If they are not working you need to replace them with the correct ones (hard to know). When they are confirmed working (front), you have to check the rear ones sold by your guy you paid. If they are working and the right ones, you should be good (after front verified working or replaced). IF the rear ones are not able to communicate to the car TPMS receiver, you have been possibly taken and have to get the correct sensors and confirm they work correctly with the front ones and the receiver. Right now, there is no way to know if the rear ones are working fine IF the front ones are not working right. In no instance, does the new rear sensors have to be 'driven around' to calibrate to the receiver. Once you leave the place you bought them from (rear) they should be working. Now, IF the front one(s) are causing the light to stay on, you have to have them fixed before the receiver can turn off the TPMS light (providing the rear ones are right and calibrated to the receiver).


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The system was working fine before I replaced the rear tires and sensors. It’s actually how we learned that the right rear tire was at the end of life (The light came on, I checked the tire pressures and adjusted that one & the light went off for a few days). I’m confident it was working before we replaced the rear sensors.

 

Brian, I ignore my TPMS. You may want to consider doing the same. I think it is not until the 2006 model car year that the Feds required TPMS on vehicles, so by Fed law it is not required on most Crossfires. You can disable the dash warning light by removing the interior dome light and you will see the wires behind the plastic. Use something like a ice pick , depress the top of pin 2 ( a gray/yellow wire). When you get it removed insert it into the empty number 6 position which disables the warning light. When you buy new tires simple ask the sensor sending unit be removed, buy a tire pressure gauge and do as we all did before TPMS came into existence. End of problem.

 

Not really a good idea Steve, best to leave the sending units in ( on OEM wheels ) as the wheels are molded with some extra mass 180 degrees from the sensor to balance the wheel.
If you take them out, then you are gonna end up with a big pile of weights in one location to get the wheel back in balance.

 

Thing is George, it hasn't worked out that way on my rims. Seems logical, and that is what I had expected, just hasn't happened that way.

 

Same here George, there was actually more weights on the wheels with the old OEM continentals when I took the sensors off and installed stems (low profile). I paid attention because I had read the post about taking them out for stems long ago here in the forum. It seems the Barum B's (European conti's) offset (maybe) that few ounces correctly. 3 yrs 2 mo, no weird wear and no vibration.


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You will not have to go to the dealer to reset the TPMS if you use the Schrader sensor #33700 it should be reset by the tire store that fits them, they are universal replacements.
The 33500 sensor has a rubber stem and the 33700 has an aluminium stem like the OEM Crossfire ones.
The EZ sensor replaces sensors of three frequencies so they are universal replacements.
As far as auto safety features go if a car came with a feature like a TPMS in Ontario then it has to be there when it has a safety inspection even if it was not legally required at the time of sale. You would not tell the inspector that it was not operating,

 

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Sure am glad the state of SC USA doesn't nannymonger drivers who actually look at their tires often (and check the air in them on a regular basis). I bet those regulations (in at least one province in Canada) are inflexible if you chose to install aftermarket TPMS instead of paying BIG $ to fix a shoddy outdated system that came with the car. Bypassed mine, took the sensors out (anyone want to buy them?). If and when I need air, I put it in. Too much (during radical changes in weather), I let some out. If I trend adding air (slow leak), I find said leak and fix it. Blowout, no working TPMS in the world will help.


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The EZ sensors are just cloned to act like the OEM ones.

 

I feel a little bad for those who are made to have a working TPMS for the 'inspection' sticker/tags.


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Removing the sensor and using “old school” tire gauge. It’s an option for many.

it wasn’t an option for me
I opted to replace mine with OEM from the dealer. The car doesn’t have a spare and I do a lot of highway driving. For me it’s piece of mind. If I’m on the road and the TPMS Light comes on, I can pull over and assess the situation or it gives me time to stop for service. (AAA)

I spent $1300 refinishing my wheels and would hate to ruin one because I didn’t know it was losing air.
If you’re keeping the car for a few years, the sensors will last 10 years it’s a good investment.

driving on the rim doesn’t appeal to me and as indicated above we don’t run spares in these cars. There is a jack, an outdated fill canister BUT NO TIRE

A dealer with the correct equipment can tell you which one isn’t working. If you’re replacing one, best to replace all four and the same time.

 

I hope you'll forgive me Brian P for the hijack but since this thread has turned somewhat to the tpms subject and it is being read by almost everyone, especially the "old timers" who have a repository of knowledge; I'd like to pose a question.

My two rear sensor went dead. Verified by the very competent LKQ service folk. They advised me to buy the sensors and they would be happy to install them ($20 total). They told me I would have to get the the car to "relearn" the new sensors at the dealership as they didn't have the equipment (DRBIII). Before they installed the sensors they checked them to see if they were "activated". I guess you can buy them in the comatose state. Ok, here's the question; if I decide to go to a dealership to have these new sensors "relearned", what do I need to ask the service manager to make sure I'm not wasting my money? I've already done this with a mercedes key failure and don't want a repeat with these sensors. I know the dealership must have the DRBIII. I see some reference to a special cable. What is the list that the service department must have to do the deed?

 

Just buy the two sensors from the dealer and get them to install them.

have this discussion with them first. Where I live several of the dealers share the equipment

make sure you explain to the service counter that the sensors are different than all of the other Mopar product and to ensure he has the relearn tools on hand the day of installation. Once they dig in, they’ll be able to assist

Best to do the inquires mid morning or mid afternoon when they have time to dig into it.

the sensors and key fobs both appear to be direct wired in to Chrysler with no alternatives

the sensors would last 10 years.

best to do all 4 at the same time. The $fee the dealer is going to charge for the relearn will be an hour.

you can do 2 sensors or 4 sensors in that hour.

it will he the same price


or you can buy them from the tire shop and then have to purchase a second set that actually works correctly from the dealership. There is a really good chance the the sensors you purchase from the tire shop will not work.

im speaking from experience( I have a new set of 4 from a tire shop that didn’t work.)

confirm the door rate and make sure they have the tools before you go down the path with the dealer.

these are the only two reasons to do to the dealer oh and parts. (Many of the same parts branded MB are less expensive at the dealership.

 

Reliableron from BC had the EZ sensors installed at a tire dealer with no problems.
The sensors in my Chrysler LHS used the same Schrader sensors as one of my Crossfires, I cannot remember which. So the dealer should be familiar with them.
Touch wood my sensors were installed on the car in October 2004 and are still going. I will use the EZ sensor when it comes to replace them.
All of the MB parts that I have priced were cheaper at the MB dealers. Chrysler dealers go to the MB dealer to buy them as needed and mark them up a hellish amount..

 

180 that’s interesting. In Calgary the parts from the Chrysler dealership has always been a lot less. I do purchase a lot of parts from them and always get a break on the price.
AND new key fobs for under $300. CND

 

I can't make sense of - or even know if the question (#35) I posed was answered. What I really want to know is what STUFF must a dealership have to relearn the new 20028 Schrader sensors I had installed. If you believe this sensor will not work; search this forum and see for yourself. Thanks!

 

I can absolutely confirm, because I've done it, that the Schrader 20028 sensors can be learned by the car using a relearn magnet and the Chrysler DRBIII for 2004 to 2006 cars, or the Chrysler Starscan for 2007 to 2008. It takes just a couple of minutes. You enter the relearn program and it prompts you to go around the car placing the magnet on each sensor starting with the from left driver side, it beeps prompting you to go to the next sensor. and stopping at the left rear driver side.