My dashboard is showing that my brakes are in need. I took it to a shop where they told me I need to replace the brake pads as well as the rotors. Is that necessary?
I was quoted $1400 to replace all four pads/rotors. Is that within a normal price range?
thank you for any information!!!

 

Seems high, how many miles on the car?

 

National average is 800-1600 for full brake job.

 

I guess I am out of touch, since I have always done my own.

 

1400 is to the higher side. Austin is not cheap area to live in. I would still get a second or third estimate. Did you get this estimate from a dealer a local independent shop?

 

The milage is 99,644. I don't doubt I need new break pads. I would like to know if getting rotors is necessary (as the mechanic told me) and if the price is high.
thank you

 

The quote was from a Shell gas station shop

 

I took a gander at Rock Auto for the parts cost:
Front Rotors Slotted Need two $120
R1 CONCEPTS 63163048L
$59.79

Rear Rotors Slotted Need two $70
R1 CONCEPTS 63163013R
$33.79

Rear Pads
BOSCH BP779
$23.79

Front Pads
BOSCH BP853
$27.79

Total retail parts without tax or shipping 248, add a 100% markup $496
Your Estimate 1400
minus parts 900
Estimate 4 hours labor for each wheel 225. So the mechanic is probably make about $25 per hour. So that's 200 dollars an hour for shop use. So get a jack and learn how to change your own brake pads and rotors.
So here is a complete tutorial to change the rear pads including rebuilding the parking brake from scratch. Bonus painting the assembly and calipers

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-hardware.html

 

Yes rotors and pads, and rear pads for the E-brake . If we are paying 2 to $400.00 for oil change., yea 9 qts.
and the price of mobil 1@11.00 per qt. ( if u buy it yourself for 5qt container$25.00.) ,,,,,,,
then all wheel brake job is very close to 1500,, do it yourself for around 4 to 500.00

 

If you can park in your garage and work on it slowly you can do it. I started to do mine like 20 years ago once the prices got out of hand. You can certainly do the job. The one tool you will want to buy is a brake bleeder (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007311sch01a/) and a Caliper Piston Compressor Tool (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...ool/scwbk-510/). You will need some anti-seize, brake caliper lube, brake cleaner, and towels to dry things. I usually go to the Dollar store and buy an aluminum roasting pan to catch the spray from cleaning the hub surface. The good thing you will feel so much better when you complete the job and realize yes, you can do it. Just go to Rock Auto as someone suggested, I like their prices and selection. I use the Power Stop line of pads (ceramic) and rotors. Rock Auto has some great videos on how to do the job.

 

"Austin is not cheap area to live in" - absolutely correct! Factor in the 'Austin surcharge' and the estimate is no surprise.
Example: pool service in Austin is nearly three times as much as Houston. The costs are higher and there's usually a wait to even get whatever the service is.
-CFK

 

Note, most shops will replace the rotors regardless if you need them or not - it's a liability thing - it takes a 100 miles for the new pads to wear into the right shape with the old rotors, so your braking won't be as crisp as it was, or will be once the pads wear in. Inspect your rotors and see if they have big gouges in them, if not, after you replace the pads, clean the rotors with brake cleaner and be aware that your braking won't be as crisp for the first 100 miles. Having said that, rotors are pretty cheap, and slotted rotors are better than the OEM rotors. You can also upgrade to ceramic pads to improve braking. If I remember correctly, I think the wear indicator also has to be replaced if your pads wore down enough to engage/activate it.

 

Doubtful, never heard of that. It just sends a ground signal once it touches the rotor.

 

You can do this yourself and save a ton of money it's not that difficult.
You can get a decent front & rear disc brake kit with ceramic pads and hardware for around $250.00 and up on amazon. Low priced example: Here are links to posts that I did when I replaced my rotors and pads.
There are a lot of detailed pictures with descriptions. The hardest part, in my opinion, was getting the anti-rattle springs back onto the front calipers.
Rear brakes Part 1
Rear Brakes Part 2

Front Brakes Part 1
Front Brakes Part 2
Front Brakes Part 3

The most important thing to do after installing the brakes is to "bed" them. This is a procedure that makes sure that you break everything in evenly. The procedure should come with the instructions.
There is a picture of the instructions in my post. Even if you don't do your brakes yourself, make sure your mechanic does. If the mechanic won't do it or you're not sure, I would do the procedure myself to make sure it is done correctly.
Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do.

 

I tend to use Brake Performance when searching for Pads & Rotors for any of my vehicles. Only task where you might need a special tool is 're-seating' the caliper piston. It will have to be 're-seated' into the caliper in order to provide sufficient room to install the new pads onto the new rotors.

 

Bought our 2005 Roadster new back then and have kept it in pretty good shape since (including my replacing all the top hydraulic cylinders and pump, among other tasks). But my aging body (79 coming up next month) is preventing me from further big jobs. So to the question:

This is the wife's car (she loves it) and she uses the brakes (never down shifting). About 7,700 miles and 2 1/2 years ago our trusted service garage measured front brakes at 6 mm and rear at 8 mm. There are no warning lights concerning brakes. Her driving is exclusively short trips locally and the car is always garaged.

Going to take the car in and expect I will be told it will need pads and rotors. Do you think it likely this will be the case?

Can't say enough praise for this web site - thanks to everyone!

 

I would say have the brake fluid changed and have them measured again. You may not need them, were they replaced before? And if so what type of pad was it? How do the rotors look? Do they have any grooves or burnt spots on them, check near the edge of the rotors and feel if there is a lip, that will show that the rotor has worn down a bit.

 

The brake fluid was changed 7,700 miles back; and shouldn't need to change again so soon, correct? Brakes have never been replaced. Front rotors shiny and smooth (no grooves) and have "lips" at edges. Rear rotors not shiny but are smooth with less prominent "lips" at edges. Perhaps we should wait for respective warning light before replacing brakes?

Car has just over 48,000 miles.

 

Sounds like they are in good shape. Usually one does two sets of fronts before you do the rears. The fronts might need to be done. I would have them checked and a set of front rotors and pads should not be too expensive depending on who one uses. Good luck

 

Appreciate advice. Scheduled visit next week; will advise.