pyle rear speakers
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central South Carolina
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Re: pyle rear speakers
I have no idea what you want, but is this video any use?
CLICK
CLICK
Awesome find Dave, never saw that post/video! When mine rot this vid will be invaluable. Thanks to the original creator AND Mr M, for posting it (and of course Dave for reposting it)!
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Re: pyle rear speakers
Not that there is anything wrong with that, or is there?
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Sussudio (12-04-2021)
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Re: pyle rear speakers
Dave, are you always trying to find fault in a positive post about your wealth/breadth of information and resources..... No, it is not a case (implied or suggested) in any way of (how did you put it, double dipping?). It is just that you come up with sources twice apart, that to this day surprises me. Yes Dave, you continually surprise...
Your welcome!
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Re: pyle rear speakers
Yep, the video is great, but doesn't answer all the questions. Perhaps the second part would have, but it was never posted.
Attached is my detailed description subwoofer wiring, which includes the wiring all the way to the speaker terminals. (Consider it a draft for the moment.)
Note: The OEM Infinity speakers are said to be dual coil 2 ohm. However, using a DMM I got readings of 3 ohms across each pair of terminals on one of the speakers. Still need to check the other.
So, how then to connect the Pyles?
There are four wiring options for the dual voice coil Pyles:
Despite the weird labeling of pins 3 and 4 on the wiring harness, I assume that the OEM speaker wiring was independent, with each speaker load at 2 ohms.
As for me: My plan is to drive the Pyles in parallel.
Mounting. The Pyles don’t fit in the baskets. I am not comfortable mounting them at an angle with fewer than four screws. It might be possible to find spacers and longer screws so that the speakers could be mounted parallel to the shrouds, but it would be time consuming to find or fabricate the spacers. Also, there is the risk of not finding a workable solution. That leaves the option of cutting the baskets. My belief is that the fit problem is due to the wider diameter of the Pyle’s magnet and that a single V-cut in the speaker shroud will allow proper mounting. I don’t think that the depth of the speaker will be a problem, but cannot confirm until I do the cut(s).
My plan is mount and connect the Pyles over the weekend and will report back afterward.
Attached is my detailed description subwoofer wiring, which includes the wiring all the way to the speaker terminals. (Consider it a draft for the moment.)
Note: The OEM Infinity speakers are said to be dual coil 2 ohm. However, using a DMM I got readings of 3 ohms across each pair of terminals on one of the speakers. Still need to check the other.
So, how then to connect the Pyles?
There are four wiring options for the dual voice coil Pyles:
- Single: Drive only one voice coil (speaker load = 4 ohms)
- Parallel: Drive both voice coils in parallel (speaker load = 2 ohms)
- Series: Drive both voice coils in series (speaker load = 8 ohms)
- Independent: Drive voice coils independently (2 speaker loads, each = 4 ohms)
Despite the weird labeling of pins 3 and 4 on the wiring harness, I assume that the OEM speaker wiring was independent, with each speaker load at 2 ohms.
As for me: My plan is to drive the Pyles in parallel.
Mounting. The Pyles don’t fit in the baskets. I am not comfortable mounting them at an angle with fewer than four screws. It might be possible to find spacers and longer screws so that the speakers could be mounted parallel to the shrouds, but it would be time consuming to find or fabricate the spacers. Also, there is the risk of not finding a workable solution. That leaves the option of cutting the baskets. My belief is that the fit problem is due to the wider diameter of the Pyle’s magnet and that a single V-cut in the speaker shroud will allow proper mounting. I don’t think that the depth of the speaker will be a problem, but cannot confirm until I do the cut(s).
My plan is mount and connect the Pyles over the weekend and will report back afterward.
Last edited by BobG; 03-22-2017 at 04:43 PM.
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Re: pyle rear speakers
One cannot use a DVM (DC) to measure speaker impedance. It must be under load and an AC signal (usually 1000 hz) used for the measurement.
A DVM will only show a vague approximation of what you are after in this case.
You have to trust the manufacturer for this spec. Or spend $250+ for a decent speaker impedance meter.
A DVM will only show a vague approximation of what you are after in this case.
You have to trust the manufacturer for this spec. Or spend $250+ for a decent speaker impedance meter.
Re: pyle rear speakers
Mounting. The Pyles don’t fit in the baskets. I am not comfortable mounting them at an angle with fewer than four screws. It might be possible to find spacers and longer screws so that the speakers could be mounted parallel to the shrouds, but it would be time consuming to find or fabricate the spacers. Also, there is the risk of not finding a workable solution. That leaves the option of cutting the baskets. My belief is that the fit problem is due to the wider diameter of the Pyle’s magnet and that a single V-cut in the speaker shroud will allow proper mounting. I don’t think that the depth of the speaker will be a problem, but cannot confirm until I do the cut(s).
Last edited by ATX SRT-6; 10-05-2017 at 11:27 AM.
Re: pyle rear speakers
These would probably drop right in but 100 bucks each is a bit much. https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...oofer--264-832
Re: pyle rear speakers
Im going to try these soon. I will start a new thread on it for everyone because I have found that these particular speakers are mislabeled as 6” 600 watt subs or whatever but they are in fact 6.5” 60-100 watt with a 2.84” mounting depth. Stock depth is 2.75” so a tenth of an inch difference shouldn’t actually matter because i can see the slight gap between the stock speaker and the basket and I measured the mounting depth of the stock speaker at 2.84” as well.
Re: pyle rear speakers
Im going to try these soon. I will start a new thread on it for everyone because I have found that these particular speakers are mislabeled as 6” 600 watt subs or whatever but they are in fact 6.5” 60-100 watt with a 2.84” mounting depth. Stock depth is 2.75” so a tenth of an inch difference shouldn’t actually matter because i can see the slight gap between the stock speaker and the basket and I measured the mounting depth of the stock speaker at 2.84” as well.
Re: pyle rear speakers
This is what I had to do to make the Kicker sub woofers work. I would assume you would have the same problem I did with fitment due to the height of the speaker. Mine would not fit in the car or the speaker cover would not fit back on the speaker casing. Go to post #47.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...oadster-3.html
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...oadster-3.html
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Re: pyle rear speakers
Great speakers. Just hook up to existing speaker feed wires. Make sure you get the polarity correct on the speaker feeds. They are hard to see the + and - terminals on the Pyle speakers and it matters! the existing speakers have a broad and narrow spade connector and you can establish the polarity from the original speaker feeds. You'll like them with the OEM equipment.
Re: pyle rear speakers
Does the video explain what I should do to run it parallel? Or am I making this more difficult than it needs to be? It seems the consensus here on the forum to get the most out of the 4 ohm subs to the 2 ohm amp, is to run it parallel? Sorry guys for the questions, just trying to be thorough. Thank you in advance, appreciate the patience.
Re: pyle rear speakers
I also just bought a set of these. I’ll start working on them this week to make them fit and wired up
Can’t we simply take the factory wires and plugs off the old speakers and put on the new Pyle speakers? This would allow them to simply “plug” into the existing wiring plug in the car.
Can’t we simply take the factory wires and plugs off the old speakers and put on the new Pyle speakers? This would allow them to simply “plug” into the existing wiring plug in the car.