I've done a ton of searching and reading about changing brake pads and I'm going to be swapping out my stock dust makers for a set of PosiQuiet Ceramics at all four corners this weekend. Heck, I even have the shop manual for all the step by step instructions but I really love Andrew's clearly written instructions for both front and rear pad replacement (they show up countless times on this forum!!!). Thanks for that, Andrew!

My only real question concerns the need to bleed the brakes when changing the rear pads: the manual says to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder when doing the rear pads and then top it off and bleed the system after installing the new pads. Andrews instructions don't mention the need for this, nor does anyone else's comments regarding rear pad install. Why the discrepancy? Would I be advised to do one side, then start the car and pump the brakes, shut down and do the other side or can I do both sides before starting/pumping?

I'm reasonably adept at this sort of thing and will be doing this work with some friends who have vast experience with this sort of thing. I'm just looking to expand my own knowledge base a bit... and I really don't want to screw anything up as I like being able to stop without running into things.

 

When I put the Rotex Golds on mine, I did not bleed the brakes. They've been on for a year or so and all seems well.

 

No need to bleed.
Just be careful when you push the cylinders out that you do not push the fluid out of the reservoir - depends if you topped off your fluid etc. etc.

 

There should be no reason to bleed the brakes if you are just changing the pads. I would STRONGLY suggest having your rotors cut (re-finished). This will provide a clean, non-grooved surface for your new pads resulting in no squeaking or pulsations and longer pad life..

 

The only time you need to bleed them is if you disconnect the brake lines or replace a caliper.

 

No need to bleed. You might find when you are all done with all 4 corners that when you remove the cover to the master cylinder some brake fluid will overflow. The main reason for this is because when you compress the pistons on the calipers it pushes some brake fluid back through the lines to the master cylinder. In the past on other vehicles I will use a clean paper towel to absorb the excess brake fluid from the master cylinder to get it to the appropriate level. I am basing this all on brake jobs on other cars and not my Crossfire.

 

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

 

How many miles are on your car and how does the brake fluid look?

 

4,687 miles... haven't checked the brake fluid but with that low mileage it had better look pretty darn good!!

 

IMO with that low of miles on it, you should not have to resurface the rotors. You might get a bit of squealing for a little while, but it will go away once everything wears some.

 

When you change out the pads, pressing the cylinders back into the calipers slightly (spreading the caliper) will make room for the new pads. If you support the calipers with a small plastic bucket or double walled cardboard box or something similar and do NOT disconnect the lines there is no need to bleed the brakes afterward.

Once you have all the pads on and BEFORE you check the fluid level... get in the car and pump the brakes a few times with the car off. This will tighten up the pistons and move some fluid out of the master cylinder and reservoir so you don't have the spill issue when you check it.

No need to turn or resurface the rotors with that low of milage. If they sqeal for a while I will be suprised. If you put the appropriate amount of anti-squeal on the pads, then it's just the new pads 'bedding in' on the rotors. This means they are wearing out the old pad material that was embedded into the metal of the rotor itself. It can happen if the pad material is different enough, but as stated, it shouldn't last long.

Cheers!

 

I would still clean up the braking surface by using some emery cloth, just to make sure any old pad deposits are gone. At the very least this helps the break in go quicker. Most of the pad makers recommend something like this...

 

I would change the rotors at least in front to Xdrilled brembos or xbrakes for the few bucks $200-300 it's worth it ! You'll be glad you did it all at once ! Maybe even do stainless steel brakelines too about $125. Or save your money and leave the rears stock.

 

I'm sure you already know this Mike but I'll put this up for anyone else who doesn't.
It's a good idea to flush your brake system out every once in awhile to rid the system of contaminents (dirt and moisture).
That's why I was wondering how many miles you had on your car but with only 4,600 miles there should be no need to bleed the brakes on a pad swap.

 

Again guys, thanks for all the tips and pointers. You basically confirmed what I already thought but since I've never done brake work before I figured a bunch of questions beforehand was better than just winging it.

 

Great Choice going with the PosiQuiet pads. Installed mine about 2 months ago, the are great!

 

You don't "need" to bleed them after changing the pads, but it's not a bad idea...I had a fair amount of air in my lines when I bought it new...I didn't really notice on the street, but at my first autocross, it was obvious...bleeding them helped significantly.

 

Gee, that was easy.


Thought I should update all of you on this since you gave me such great advice.

Pads installed on all four corners over the weekend - firm pedal, no squeaking, stopping power seems equal to before. Today I pulled all four wheels off again and gave them the royal spa treatment so they are clean as a whistle inside and out. I didn't have an opportunity to do this while changing pads or I would have. Turns out changing the pads was maybe a wee bit easier than cleaning the wheels!!

Thanks again for all the help.

 

good advice everyone! i love how every once in awhile a bunch of people on here get together and are actually productive lmfao