One of the issues here is that I no longer can spend hours here going into detail with people - my work life is too intense. But in this case, I see that my short answers don't work.
I cant give a lot of time away (you notice that Brian does not give time away.....) but here is some detailed analysis:
Lets look at your original post:
Originally Posted by
JJFinFla
My top stopped working one evening. It would not go up or down using the switch in the console. The following things were happening or not happening:
When I undo the D ring the windows go down.
This indicates that the PTCM (POwer Top Control Module) got the signal from the latch Retainer switch and that it told the BCM to lower the windows.
Sounds like the PTCM is fine, as well as the BCM and the CAN BUS between the two.
You can hear the trunk lock but the top doesn't operate.
So the PTCM set the trunk lock, again,
the PTCM is fine AND it thinks it's going to move the top - the PTCM's brain is fine.
I started by checking each of the micro switches. I've jumped the divider switch in the trunk and provided a solid ground. I've checked the switch above the passengers head and it seems to click and operate correctly. I've done the same to the bow switch and the tonneau switch...etc.etc.
First, the bot and tonneau switches are not of concern at this part of the cycle. Second, you did not perform a valid test, a valid test is to make sure that, when the divider is up (or the divider switch is jumpered) that Pin 7 of C1 on the PTCM is at ground (under .5 volt).
You "provided a solid ground" to WHAT? If you provided a solid ground directly to Pin 7 of C1, that would 'bypass' both the top open and divider switches, which would be a good test.
[quote]I've had Brian H. come out with his scanner and mention that there didn't seem to be a signal from the top control unit and that would be the next thing to check. [\quote]
But we've already established that the PTCM is fine. What "signal" are you expecting to see? (I DO NOT use any 'scanner' to diagnose top issues, if someone else does, fine.)
The PTCM has been proven at this point to be 'sane', it sensed the latch retainer switch's change of state, and it is capable of talking to the BCM AND setting the trunk lock.
The Lock Pump seems to be operating as the power locks and spoiler work normally so we ruled that out.
So you suspected the PTCM but not the CLP/SSM? I dont see why you jumped to those two conclusions.
The CLP/SSM performs a myriad of security and top/wing control functions, it is a poorly documented item in the system and has caused COUNTESS tops to refuse to move. Why do you insist is it OK, but you did not accept that the PTCM is ok? (Keep this in mind as you work on this problem..... ! )
No leaks in the hydraulics and no water entry into the trunk. When I manually put the top up or down I was able to get the final “beep” and the light on the switch would go out if I held the button in the position the roof was in. This I believe indicated that the roof has completed a cycle. Based on this info I chased down a Top Control Computer at Expressive Auto in Tampa and swapped it out. Now everything changed! The top still doesn't work. Now the light on the console switch continuously flashes when the car is on. When I undo the D ring the windows go down but still no top operation. I now get a continuous beep for about 30 seconds (approx 70 beeps) when I drive away from a engine start if I manually move the roof from up to down or down to up. These are new developments. I swapped the CTC back and I get exactly the same things with the new or old CTC. When I close the roof manually and hit the up button the windows go up with either CTC but the light keeps flashing until I shut off the car.
I don't know what went on here. But when you change a PTCM, the first thing you must do is resync (or that's what you SHOULD do), if you don't do that, I can see where things could get confusing.
As to your "No water...." remark, I get that water damage to the CLP/SSM is often the cause of a top that won't move, or a wing that acts funny, or security issues (lights won't go out, etc.) and I get that you can usually find this by looking at connector pins on the CLP/SSM. But two things;
.... A lot of water damage is not easily seen.
... The CLP/SSM can fail electronically without water causing the failure.
While I have been poking around looking for a possible cut or frayed wire (none found) I cleaned all the connectors and made sure they are correctly secured. I was going to try to run power directly to the pump and see if the pump operated. Based on this info is there a next thing I should be looking into?
I appreciate any of your help with this stuff. It's been frustrating!
Jack
"Running power to the pump directly" is not troubleshooting; don't bother.
I have several suggestions, you might reject one or two of them and I understand that -but you do so at your own peril.
1) Read thru my thread 'Convertible top sensors' in this forum. Learn as much as you can about how the system works.
2) Stop groping around without the technical documentation needed:
3) Find a CLP/SSM and put it in and see what you have.
4) DO NOT get discouraged.
5) DO NOT get desperate and spend money paying people who do not do electronic troubleshooting for a living
you can do this yourself as well as they can.
The top system is comprised of: The BCM, The PTCM, The CLP/SSM, five switches (two of which you have worked on), the electric trunk lock switches/solenoid, the trunk latch switch/assembly and four hall-effect sensors on the rear bow and main lift cylinder. ANY ITEM here can give you fits, but the most common are: Divider switch, top open switch, latch retainer switch, CLP/SSM. Of course, low fluid can also give you trouble.....
The top worked, it can and will work again.