This seems to be unconnected, but here it is:

I had trouble with my BAS/ESP warning light coming on. Chrysler found no problem and reprogrammed it. Problem possibly solved - it has come on twice since being reprogrammed and now, no more (hopefully).

But, every time my warning light (just the BAS/ESP warning) came on, my cruise control would not work. The cruise control has never failed me when the warning light is off!

 

For safety reasons the speed control will disengage when the car is having stability issues, this is when the BAS/ESP would kick in.

So BAS/ESP triggered = no speed control.

It would be extremely dangerous for the car to be out of control and the speed maintained. Make sense?

 

From my experience, cruise control is strictly in the PCM (powertrain control module). I would take it to a shop with Mercedes Star DAS (diagnostics system) to run the more thorough diagnostics of the car. Chrysler has the DRBIII for the traction software, ESP, ABS that sort of stuff but if you need to find a problem outside of that one module, you won't get there with their system.

Edit: What 180 said makes sense actually. I would still run DAS to see what might be the problem for the ESP.

 

Hmm.. ABS BAS/ESP active lights.. cruise control all day long. Guess we just living life on the edge together..

Makes me want to sell my old car that just had cruise..

 

Thanks, y'all! What 180 said makes perfect sense, but when I am off of work, I think I will go to a Mercedes dealer to check it out like sk8er suggested. The warning light coming on after Chrysler reprogrammed it bothers me. Even though it is not coming on now!

I am continually impressed with y'alls wisdom! Thanks!

 

My BAS/ESP light is on too. I understand if it's a wheel speed sensor that Cruise won't work. I will test my cruise tomorrow and report back.

 

My BAS/ESP stays lit all the time, (because it's disconnected) and my cruise control works fine.

 

That's a good way to test that theory lol. So a Star diagnostic would probably be a very good place to start Sandy.

 

Read the Service Manual.
Plain common sense would say that the cruise control should be disconnected.

 

Maybe a simple calibration is all it needs. Simple wheel stop to wheel stop.

 

Not saying you are wrong or anything, but I deleted my copy of the "service manual"... The wiring diagrams are wrong in most places, either color or pin, and the troubleshooting procedures are completely wrong. Operations of components is wrong. I'm done messing with a company's service manual when they had nothing to do with the car.

Just an FYI, the latest circle the manual had me running in was testing the cam sensor... Chrysler says the signal is pulled high when it signals. Nope, M112's and M113's pull the signal low... Had me pulling out my hair for a few days because every single step in our manual for troubleshooting resistance and shorts was wrong for that device. Same for the crank sensor.

Just my .02, the real manufacture of our car says start with a star diagnostic scan. They have more in depth procedures for testing, most of which are values they can test without ever popping the hood. I'm going to have to side with Mercedes who built our cars on this one.

 

I am only saying that if the car suffers from a problem with stability control, real or perceived, then it would be wise to automatically switch off something that will push you into a brick wall at a constant speed. Lawsuits have been caused and won by lesser oversights.

 

I was hoping this post had some kind of bizarre sexual content. I'm disappointed.

 

Well guess this is one.. Heaven forbid.. where the driver has to use a little wisdom.. As stated I have no ABS and no ESP/BAS and cruise control works just fine.

And no brick walls..

 

I think you are as dense as that brick wall at times. The OP did not pull a fuse and stated that the cruise control did not work when the ESP/BAS light was on. Reading the Manual I read that if the ESP/BAS senses a problem the cruise will kick off. That is totally logical, if the car is in a slide then the brakes are applied to correct the direction stability, surely the car should not be forced to go at the same speed as it may be going to hit the wall anyways. Stating that a driver should use common sense is stupid as these systems work faster than you or I can react.

 

And even though this is plain black and white.. you'll only see through muddy eyes.. I HAVE ERROR CONDITION.. ALL FUSES IN PLACE.. Can you hear me now?

Guess I'll just crush my truck with cruise control and NO DRIVER ASSIST CRAP..

It's a good thing your horse had idiot intervention huh? Could have got hurt on your way to school..

It's really pathetic when someone "Knows" other than what you spout it ends up here.

 

I have never liked ABS brakes. While driving a chevy astro van for employers the ABS brakes have caused me to hit the back end of another vehicle twice in heavy traffic sudden emergency stop situations. If I had been driving any vehicle without ABS then I could have stopped quicker in less distance. I have been driving for 39 years and never needed ABS or been in any situation where ABS or traction control stability systems would have benefited me in the slightest. I trust my ability to control any vehicle in an emergency more than I do the vehicles "brain" just my 2 cents worth.

 

And it is a wonder manufacturers haven't resorted to putting these stickers on the back of all our cars...

 

Thanks, everyone. I think 180 is right on and I am sure Sk8er is correct about the Star Diagnostic. I also think Chrysler is correct that my warning light needed to be re-programmed. The car is running fine, but I will feel better after the Diagnostic test. I will trust in the Lord for everything else.

 

I thought it was another thread about me.