My check engine light was on and I am not sure what the code was associated with it. I am totally NOT mechanically inclined. I cranked it at work and it cut right back off. I thought maybe I just cranked it too fast so tried again and it worked. Got home and the next time I tried to crank it, same thing except this time it stopped altogether and just the dash lit up.
I am being told by the mechanic that the Engine Management Relay needed to be replaced and that the old one burned up my Pulse Module. Is this something that is possible? Are there any questions I can ask them to make sure there wasn't a smaller/cheaper fix?

 

If it's still trying to start it could be the crankshaft position sensor. Also could be the relay control module. These are known problems that might cause your car to act this way. Do a search on the forum. You'll find much info.

 

Most likely cold solder joints on the RCM ( Relay Control Module )
Search for "Mystery No Start" and you'll find more than you probably wanted to know.

 

What is the difference in all the "relay" and "module" names?

 

The RCM is a circuit board with mounted relays.
It is in the box by the battery closest to the engine.
It has about 5 harness plugs connecting it.
Remove the negative battery cable before pulling it out and unplugging it.
It's not easy, but the plastic cover comes off and you can inspect the solder points with a strong magnifying glass.
Lately there have been several that had open relay coils.

DJ ( tighed1 ) can figure all this out for you, all you have to do is send it to him along with some beer money.

 

Thanks for the breakdown and explanation, it helps my limited understanding. I just got off the phone with the mechanic. Their diagnosis is that my entire Relay Control Module was burned up by the pulse module, something to do with pulling too much current. I guess I am trying to just figure out if this is a feasible explanation and diagnosis.

Thank you for your patience and answers.

 

No, it is not a feasible diagnostic.
The RCM and pulse module are like bad neighbors, they have nothing to do with each other.

The pulse module ( located in the under hood fuse box ) is controlled by the ignition key.
The ignition key tells the pulse module to do it's thing, which is engaging the starter and timing how long that should occur.
The design is to prevent burning up the starter motor.

 

1. So when you turn the key does the engine crank (turn over, spin whatever you wanta call it)?
2. Or do you get no crank but all other electrical stuff work?

If 2 then follow the RCM REPAIR link for instructions to fix it.


Welcome to the Forum!

 

Hi tighed1,

My engine cranks....but won't start...so mine is number 1. What is the problem associated with that?

 

1. CPS ( Crankshaft Position Sensor )
2. no fuel :
a. are you out of gas ?
b. is there fuel pressure at the rail test point ?
c. can you hear the fuel pump run when you move the key to just before start ?
3. no spark. - hopefully it is not this as that gets complicated.

 

Classic "cranks but does not run". First thing I usually do is triage: pour about 1/2 ounce of fuel directly into the intake, button up, and try to start. If it runs then dies it is a fuel problem. If nada then probably a spark issue. (weasle words: have a good fire extinguisher handy.)


Once that is done I pull out the right set of gauges.


Have only three possibilities: fuel, fire, mechanical & of the three, a mechanical failure without sound effects is the least likely. (Crank sensor is an electrical problem)

 

Problem fixed. It was the crankshaft sensor....thanks for the input guys!

 

Well....thought it was fixed. Went for a test run and seemed fine...and then just went dead. Wiggled connector...got it to start and started home. Died 3 times on me on the way home...had to adjust connector each time to restart the car and made it home. Think the connector is going bad. That seem possible?

 

?? Did you buy a BOSCH sensor? I read in another post the others are smaller connectors then the BOSCH and they are a little loose in the connector. With our cars, there is a saying 'Go Bosch or Go Home' so if you bought a sensor from your local auto parts store you could be walking home. Just saying...

 

Hmmmm....was not Bosch.....may have to buy one and see. Symptoms now are....starts....runs to about 3000 to 3500 rpm and then dies. Will restart but problem repeats itself.

 

I would love to send my RCM to you for the repair and horn fix, what's the first step sir? Besides removal of course...

 

Step #1 - Email me.
tighed1 at hotmail.com

 

Update: replaced CPS with a Bosch CPS.....problem solved. Seems there is some truth to go Bosch or go home! Thanks for help guys!

 

It more like.. go Bosch or don't make it home.

 

Actually it's 'Go Bosch or walk home'.