Clutch pedal position switch
Clutch pedal position switch
Hi all -
I'm hooking up a remote starter (keyless) and I need to wire in so that it will only start if the clutch is depressed.
The clutch has two switches.. one that is engaged when you push the clutch in and one that is engaged when you don't push the clutch in.
No matter what I do, I cannot get a signal from the switch. Anyone got a recommendation?
I'm hooking up a remote starter (keyless) and I need to wire in so that it will only start if the clutch is depressed.
The clutch has two switches.. one that is engaged when you push the clutch in and one that is engaged when you don't push the clutch in.
No matter what I do, I cannot get a signal from the switch. Anyone got a recommendation?
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Re: Clutch pedal position switch
What does your remote starter thing want from the switch, a negative going or positive going indication?
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
Re: Clutch pedal position switch
What does your remote starter thing want from the switch, a negative going or positive going indication?
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
It wants a positive signal. My original ignition switch is DOA and I don't intend to spend $500+ to replace it in a car worth (MAYBE) 10x that amount. The remote start is just a push button module and an RFID immobilizer. Thank you for the advice.
Re: Clutch pedal position switch
What does your remote starter thing want from the switch, a negative going or positive going indication?
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
One side (RD/BK) applies a ground with pedal down, the other (VT) applies a high with pedal pressed, but that is a high coming from the "Start" position of the ignition switch - so good luck with THAT.
Would you mind if I told you that you are adding a device that will make servicing of the car in an "no crank" scenario very difficult? And given that you don't want the car cranking without someone already sitting in the driver's seat and pressing the pedal - I am having a very hard time understanding the point here.
Hey Pizzaguy -
I thought I would mention - service manual indicates the clutch pedal position sensor signal wire is Red/Black and the ground is Brown. The violet wires are on the interlock switch - is this what you were referring to?
PS: I've left connections for the original transponder module and an ignition switch for future troubleshooting. I drive this car maybe 1,000 miles a year now so I am not too worried.
Just need to find a latching ground (or make one) for the 556U transponder bypass now and we'll be in business.
Re: Clutch pedal position switch
Just in case someone stumbles upon this in the future.. I tapped my "brake light safety" wire into the black/red on the clutch position switch (the one up top of the clutch).
I might post a wire summary next weekend in case someone else wants to do something similar later on, this was not a lot of fun to get working but good documentation is crucial for future issues + this can all be reversed, which is also nice.
As far as a latching ground, decided to ground it entirely so if the push-button has powered up, the transponder info is transmitted continually to SKREEM. The passive RFID has to be triggered by the keyfob to set off that process. The factory alarm, locks, etc. are all still in play.
I might post a wire summary next weekend in case someone else wants to do something similar later on, this was not a lot of fun to get working but good documentation is crucial for future issues + this can all be reversed, which is also nice.
As far as a latching ground, decided to ground it entirely so if the push-button has powered up, the transponder info is transmitted continually to SKREEM. The passive RFID has to be triggered by the keyfob to set off that process. The factory alarm, locks, etc. are all still in play.
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