Ditto that! That's why I always have 1 O-ring left over during an oil change.

 

You mean, that's NOT what German licorice tastes like?

 

Guys, I'm a bit of an idiot. I've got written in my notes "oil-filter plug torque 22 ft.lbs." Well I don't know if I meant the oil filter or the drain plug! What I need to know is the torque for the OIL FILTER. Can someone tell me what it is? Thanks.

 

It is sealed by the big O ring, so enough torque so it is completely seated.

 

HAND TIGHTEN ONLY! That is a PLASTIC carrier with PLASTIC threads - the seal is provided by the o-ring, not torque.

I would think five to seven foot-pounds, but I've never imagined anyone would use a torque wrench to tighten it.

 

Specially since there is no place to put a torque wrench

 

spec says 18 ft lbs; totally agree tighten by feel 'til tight
you could use one of those filter tightening metal caps with a 3/8 square hole in the top for a torque wrench.

 

Not sure of a torque # for the filter housing but I always hand tighten it and the use my filter strap tool and give it just a bit more than by hand can do
Been doing it this way for 12 years with no issues and no leaks

 

Right. I've an oil filter "cap," if you will. It fits on top of the filter and has a bung to attach a (torque) ratcheting wrench to.

 

The torque for the oil cap is written on the top of it, 25 Nm. (18 ft lb)
I just grab it with two hands and tighten it, it needs the wrench with the rubber band to loosen it.

 

See the attached document. I set these with 3/8" drive torque wrench when I change the oil & filter. I buy copper crush gaskets from a local parts house to replace the copper gasket on the drain plug. And again, as others have stated, both of these only need sufficient torque to seat the respective sealing mechanisms (drain plug = crush gasket; oil filter cap = O-ring).

Torque Values: Drain Plug = 22 ft-lbs; Oil Filter & Cap = 18 ft-lbs

 

I actually have the 3/8" drive oil filter tool for the oil filter cap.

 

Ditto!

 

A few thoughts about my first Crossfire oil/filter change:
I've only put 1400 miles on the car since buying it in June.
The FSS said I still had 4900 miles to go before an oil change was due but the oil was quite dirty so that was a definite lie.
The FSS is reset to 7000 miles now but I doubt I'll let it go that long. Once the oil (Mobil 1) has been in for 3000 miles I'll base the change on how dirty the oil is but I won't let it go past 5K.
Setting the torque wrench to 18 ft lbs was the perfect setting for the oil filter. It was equivalent to the person who said, "Hand tight and then a 'snug.'"
The plug washer, based on the very deep grooves in it, is probably the original one. I put Teflon tape on the plug threads. It definitely won't leak but I'll get some copper washers when I have to order something else.

I bought a new fuel filter a while back. I noticed that the fuel filter in situ looks somewhat rusty & nasty yet has regular hose clamps on all the fuel hoses instead of factory fittings. I figure if I let the car sit for 3 days the high pressure should be almost gone. Do you agree? It's gonna be raining for a few days so I'm gonna try to install the new steering wheel. That's all folks!!!

 

The crush washers I use are per this link:

Dorman 65310

Dorman 65310

.

I buy these at the local parts store under the Oil-Tite branding. Comes with 3 washers in the pkg.

 

Thanks! O'Reilly has free shipping delivered next day from my local store. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../65310/4182355

 

Putting Teflon tape on the thread of the drain plug is a waste of time. It is used on taper threads that lock up on the taper and not the washer. You can only have one type of seal on the pan, the washer or a taper thread, there is another that uses an O-ring seal but that is another story. Ours uses a copper washer type, a flat composite type seal works as well but the Teflon will not work if the other seal is leaking as the Teflon needs to be crushed between the thread taper to seal. You cannot get enough Teflon between the threads to stop it getting blown out under pressure or gravity if the other seal has failed.
Press the Schrader valve on the fuel rail with a rag on it, pressure drops to zero just like that.

 

Super Glue. What about Super Glue? And I hate to put myself to the trouble, but do you think I could have it welded?

 

Ol man Joe here,

In the past Ive had success with re taping the threaded hole in the pan and or using a oversize plug with the copper crush washer.

I agree teflon is probably not a good idea.

Im not feeling the weld idea either, unless of course the pan is cracked.

Best of luck with your vehicle!

 

OK, I get ya. You're uneasy. We can't have that.
Allow me to present proposal 42a, subsection 3:
1) Screw drain plug into hole & weld shut.
2) At the change interval, drill & tap a new hole.
You can't argue with the fact that there's plenty of real estate on the bottom of the pan. By the time you run out of space it's time to tow it to the junk yard!