I put 2 litres of fluid through the system, ignition on all the time and engine on for at least five pumps of the pedal. No change at all, I give up.
I think too much pedal movement is wasted before the brake fluid starts to move.

 

I’m also having a problem as of last night (when I went about bleeding the brakes after adding steel hose lines from needs wings. I went about the project due to spongy pedal and little to no stopping power (a problem that seemed to pop up from no where). When pumping the brake pedal in the garage til pedal was firm (2 to 3 times), a mist of fluid was noticed at wheel location on the garage floor once I backed out. This led me to believe the hosed were damaged.

Yesteday I put the new hoses on (little to no fluid dripped out when old hoses disconnected). With the new hoses on and assuming to air leakage points, I set out to bleed brake in the “farthest wheel from master cylinder/abs pattern”. I attached clear vinyl hose to bleed screw and drained in a bottle partially filled with brake fluid. I pumped brake till no bubbles noted and closed. Topped off MC after each wheel. Pedal travel appears to be appropriate now. And I have brakes!......but.....

At start up no CEL/dash warning light however when I depress brake pedal BAS/ESP light comes on.
While the BAS/ESP is illuminated, it doesn’t appear to hinder my brake lights, or driving speed or rear wing/ spoiler. My cellphone driven scan tool picks up no error with the light on.

Where did I go wrong?; Might it be just a matter of resetting the warning light with a better scan tool? Have I damaged the Abs module?

 

The BAS/ESP lamp will light up if any fault is found that would/could affect your braking (BAS) or traction control (ESP). Tires that are under inflated, or are triggering a "low pressure" warning from the TPMS system in theory will affect braking and traction, hence your BAS/ESP lamp coming on.

found it here: https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&s...sclient=psy-ab
perhaps even this may be of use: https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ight-help.html
i hope it helps.

 

i think you didnt do anything wrong. and you have brakes to prove it. its just that the system is detecting something like low pressure tires.
or, if some1 has a better idea please chime in.

 

recalibrating?
among the solutions mentioned, there is this:
" I believe I found the answer in the Owner’s Manual under the subheading “Synchronizing ESP” in the section on the ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP) that says a power supply interruption, like a recent disconnecting of the battery or a low-charge situation, may cause the BAS/ESP light to come on while the car is running. This section gives instructions on recalibrating the steering angle sensor, which seems to have corrected the issue. I have driven the car a few hundred miles since performing this recalibration procedure and the indicator light has not come on since. "
could this be the answer?
although seems impressive, in fact is a simple matter.
(from the manual):
Synchronizing ESP
If the power supply was interrupted (battery disconnected or discharged), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light may be illuminated with the engine running. To re-synchronize the ESP, and cancel the malfunction indicator light, the steering angle sensor will need to be recalibrated.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and
then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering wheel back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.

The ESP control switch is located in the center console.
When the ESP is switched off, the warning light in the
instrument cluster comes on. When the ESP is switched
on, the warning light goes out .
but then again, if there is sort of low pressure at least in 1 tire, still the lights may go on.

 

am going to replace the hoses following advice from dedwards0323 will steel braided and will use the speed bleeding screws to expedite it. see:
Introduction - Speed Bleeders - Russell Performance Products
got the hoses from needswings.

 

I have several types of brake bleeding tools from pressure tanks to suction systems. I know about speed bleeders, but never bothered to try them. I thought I would check the cost on the site link you provided. I could not find either the Crossfire or SLK320 in the application guides.

 

I used Goodrich parts SB8125L and SB8125LL. I found one (SB8125LL) is used more commonly on motorbikes and was cheaper than auto parts stores.
They are both used on bikes.
They are available on Amazon of course.
Unlike the OEM nipples, they use the same wrench size.
I used what I learned here but maybe the longer one could be used in all four spots.

 

i was showing the way are used. no need to close nothing while doing it.
got mine here:
https://topbrakes.com/c/car-series/5...RE+Except+SRT6

 

As you've probably read,I just did my brake system.Good zinc coated rotors,ceramic pads,goodridge ss lines,russel bleeders witch nobody needs.My brakes work good,not great good.What are you comparing them to?First you should use pressure or vacuum to bleed.pumping that pedal from an open system only creates more air and plays havoc on your master cyl. I use the vacuum dohiccy with just a foot of clear hose.Get fluid to each wheel at atime.then you should have somewhat of apedal.Doesnt matter witch wheel you do when,they're all separate circuits.Do your finish bleed by hand,you can let just the remaining air out without carefully without losing much fluid.I prefer the stock bleeders,i can regulate flow better.You should have decent brakes.The front brake set up has been around from the 60's.Single piston sliding caliper.If you want more stopping power you need 2 or 4 piston fixed calipers witch somebody must sell.The rears are probably better than fronts.I read about the tool that reads piston pressure by inserting in the caliper.At least you could tell if they are even.Anyway I'm driving a luxury sports car that stops like it should.If I was racing then a different story.Cheers Pops.

 

great detailed comments. thanks.
an update from previous post: this is especially interesting: " Doesnt matter witch wheel you do when,they're all separate circuits. "
if so, wonder why the order is always said in instructions to bleed 1st the rear passenger, then the rear drivers, then the front passenger, then the drivers.

 

The individual brake lines emerge from the ABS and not the master cylinder.
I’m on his ignore list because I am a bad, bad person. LOL
But my comment may be of interest to others.