I am a newbie to the Crossfire world and recent owner of a 2005 roadster with 34K miles. The overall condition of the car is excellent. Previous owner did not provide any maintenance records. I would like to know what the recommendations are for the following:

• Preferred engine oil - Mobil 1 0-40w
• Oil filter - Mann HU 718
• Antifreeze - MB, GO5 or G-40
• Air filters
• Top mechanism lubrication
• Other recommendations

Thanks, Jack

 

That sticker that says "Mobile 1 0W40 Recommended" is fifteen years old. The recommendation since about 2010 has been 5W40, 0W40 is approved but no longer recommended.
The full list of approved oils is here: https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.3_en.html

The Mann Fleece filter is available everywhere, even under familiar brand names. These two are actually re-boxed Mann Fleece filters you can buy locally, but watch it, the L25276 is a crappy paper filter:


I'll leave the antifreeze to others but PLEASE don't ask about air filters - it's like a religion around here. You have your K&N cultists, there are a few "Mopar" freaks, and then there are guys like me - who buy reasonable off-the-shelf filters and change them annually - even tho we drive maybe 3000 miles in an entire year.

As to "top mechanism lubrication", what are you going to lube? I've owned three Roadsters, drove one every day for five years and over 70,000 miles in Georgia. I probably put my down and up perhaps 750 to 1500 times. Never lubricated any of it. Never had any problem with the top or the system. I DO admit that a few members here have greased the bow latch mechanism, but I never have had a reason to. (I also wonder about the flap extension cables - seems like they should be lubed like the old motorcycle brake and clutch cables, don't you?)

My advice to someone who wants the top mechanism to work well: Put the top up and down often. If you let the car sit over the winter, start it up and exercise the top at least every three weeks. Again, I moved my top many times a week for no less than 250 weeks - never had a problem. "Use it or loose it" does not apply just to the human body.

Oh, and welcome to the forum. I suggest you check THIS part of the forum from time to time - these cars are way more fun if you are part of the community - and get together with other owners from time to time: Click RIGHT HERE to meet wonderful people and see dozens of Crossfire close up!

 

Thanks for the tips. I will now begin to exercise my to which is new. Good advice as I have never owned a convertible before.
So far the only problem encountered is with the drivers seat. It will not move front to rear only tilt and up down. In reading some of the related threads the problem might be within the seat relay board. This appears to be located under the dash near the steering column. Repairing poor solder connections seems to be one of the main causes. Any tips related to this would appreciated.
Cheers

 

As far as the air filter If you like a lttle more performance and a permanant filter go with K&N also check the cabin filter under glove box, this is often overlooked . I would lube the hinge points with the top up and with it in the half open position . Don't forget to do the same on your spoiler., this helps take the strain off You can easily remove the inner trunk lid cover to lube the spoiler and gear mechanism. wouldn't hurt to lube the door, hood hinges key and locks with graphite most factory lubrication does not last 15 years . There is a sticky key fix on this site, check it out

 

If your seats move at all, the seat relay is fine.
If the relay fails, NONE of the seat movement buttons will work.
If ANY work but some don't, you have either a motor issue or a switch issue.

 

With regard to seat issue, If it is either a motor or switch related problem the only way to resolve it looks like I will have to remove the seat. Is this correct?
Removing the seat doesn't look too difficult. However, the seat is all the way to the rear most position which might make accessing the 2 rear screws very difficult.

 

Have you had a peak under the seat to see if the harness is plugged in

I know it’s pretty obvious but what if...

 

The seats may move only with a door open or only with a door closed in which case a diode has failed.
The diode can be replaced but it is easier to replace the plug and play relay.

 

Have not checked the connectors yet. Just thought that if the up/down motor is working, the switch is probably okay but still is a good suggestion.
Thanks,

 

If the diode is NG then how will replacing the relay fix the problem. The diode will be open with no current flow.

 

I’m sooooo glad that after all this time there is still active users and posts

 

Dave is right in post 8. My statement that if ONE seat works, the issue is not the relay - is usually right, but it IS possible to have one seat work and one not work due to a bad relay module.

1) The diodes Dave mentions are on the relay's circuit board. (The relay is actually a little module with a relay and several steering diodes.)
2) There are numerous switches, one can be bad (even one HALF of a switch can be bad) while the others work fine.
3) The relay can fail such that one seat works fine, the other does not work at all in cases where you depend on a door being open to activate the relay.
4) Opening the doors causes the relay to close and power the seat motors, but each door has a separate switch/diode to drive the relay.

The service manual makes it all very clear...

 

1 of the most important factors that determines the longevity of your car is lubrication (oils-and filters).
from your list:
1-preferred engine oil:
this is what i use: https://www.pennzoil.com/en_ca/produ...inum-euro.html - (it is in the list provided by pizzaguy)
i choose it because i found a comparative study https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-results.html
here they do 5 different tests comparing pennzoil ultra vs mobil 1
on the 1st 1 they test for scar (the smaller is better) pennzoil: 0.45, mobil: 1.6
2nd (TBN)-the higher the better: pen: 0.95, mobil: 0.95 both the same;
3-crank-the lower the better: pen:3900, mobil;: 3900= both the same;
4-TEOST (oxid)-the lower the better: pen: 0.9; mobil: 2.5
5-NOACK (volat)- the lower the better: pen:7.1; mobil: 8.5
but even if you decide not to get this, get some that is full synthetic. there are some that advertise synthetic but is not full. read the fine print.

 

2-transmission oil
you didnt ask for other oils. there is transmission, that if you own a manual transmission, you are lucky, because it only takes some 4 liters, and, according to the manual, it is very close to the engine specifications. to the point that you could use exactly the same. and if you got a car without record, you have no idea when (or if) was it replaced. i got mine in wonderful appearance condition, but previous owners didnt do a thing so i decided to check it: it was BLACK!, so i replaced it (mine had about 65,000 miles).

but if your car is an automatic, replacing the oil is another story. if you want to replace all the oil is expensive. it can not be drained fully, and would take replacing it 3 times. and is about 8 liters of full synthetic that costs about 3 times of regular. ask the experts.

 

3-differential oil:
rear axle (differential).
regarding which part uses which oil, the manual specifies:
1-engine: only synthetic engine oils approved to MB 229.3 or MB 229.5, such as Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40. (should say: engine oil SAEJ300 0W40 )
2-automatic transmission: only use ATF approved to MB 236.10, MB 236.12 synthetic dextro III transmission fluid
3-manual transmission fluid: only use fluid approved to MB 236.2. SAE 5W-20 engine oil, meeting API SL or GF-3. (should say: engine oil SAEJ300 5W20)
4-rear axle fluid: only synthetic SAE 75W85 axle lubricant that meets MB 231.1 (should say: rear axle oil SAEJ306 75W85)
so:
1- engine uses engine oil (of course);
3-manual transmission also uses engine oil (of a little different viscosity).
4-rear axle uses gear box oil. it is another kind of oil. it is NOT engine oil (the specification is SAE 75W85). the manual does not specify if this is the same kind of oil or not as the engine. in reality, it is different kind of oil. very different indeed.
the problem is that, as mentioned before, SAE is not just SAE. there are 2 different classes.
engine and transmission use SAE J300, and rear axle uses SAE J306, and this should be mentioned in all cases, because the numbers are so far apart, that trying to use the wrong specification means havoc to the part. (it is all clear on the chart provided by pizzaguy below)
(2-with automatic transmission, the lubricant is transmission oil specific for it).
in conclusion:
1- engine and transmission use engine oil (although of different viscosity-but not much)
2-rear axle does not use engine oil; uses a different kind of oil, designed specifically for gears.
3-automatic transmission uses another kind of oil for transmission, that is specific for it.
but there is more:
I found this link fun to read:
https://www.thelubricantstore.com/un...ty-grade-chart
comment next is from pizzaguy:
I guess 75W90 gear lube is similar in viscosity to my old 20W50 engine oil, which I ran for 150,000 miles in my 4.3L Vortec engine.
(The Lubricant Store is where I got my Mobile 1 5W50 I ran in the Graphite Crossfire in the summer heat - could not get it any where else.)


(graph from pizza somewhere before)
and even this chart makes difficult to understand, as it calls engine and transmission "SAE Crankcase", and differential "SAE Gear", because gear could be considered "gear box" which is the transmission. take note !

 

Zerex G-05 or the Mercedes equivalent for the coolant. Do not use some cheap product, you do not need corrosion in the engine block.

 

sticky ignition key
but before we get into some other things of great importance, try this: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ru-2006-a.html
considering the number of views, and that it could happen at any time, it is better to do it as soon as possible.

 

Correction on Phil's url :
Go here for the CORRECT PDF on the sticky key :
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post952026

 

This thread was updated at 6.58 pm today by pizzaguy, so Phil is correct.
See post #1.

 

OK, thanks.