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Hi, I have enjoyed my crossfire for 3 months - all good. I have oem radio/cd player in my car. Was driving at weekend - radio on and switching between stations okay. Today went in, started car and radio came on automatically but none of the buttons were responsive ie I couldn’t turn it off, lower volume or change modes. The only button that was working was the cd eject.
Would be grateful if anyone is stare of issue or more importantly any quick fixes.
Gary
Thanks again - I’ve removed fuse 8, which was listed as the radio fuse. Removing it briefly didn’t sort the issue so I’ll try it out for longer. You also mentioned fuse 5, shall try that also.
I worked for JVCKenwood in R&D. If the OEM head is anything like every Japanese design, then you MUST yank BOTH fuses in order to get the microprocessor powered down completely. Pulling a fuse at a time is not going to do it.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Mar 15, 2021 at 01:42 PM.
I worked for JVCKenwood in R&D. If the OEM head is anything like every Japanese design, then you MUST yank BOTH fuses in order to get the microprocessor powered down completely. Pulling a fuse at a time is not going to do it.
There is a fuse on the back of the radio, what it does I have no idea.
Check all fuses for continuity.
This issue surfaced on my OEM stereo unit this past weekend. Will try pulling the fuses to see what happens. Based on the radio wiring diagram, do I need to also pull Fuse 23 that goes to amplifier but eventually feeds the radio?
Last edited by dedwards0323; Mar 15, 2021 at 07:47 PM.
This issue surfaced on my OEM stereo unit this past weekend. Will try pulling the fuses to see what happens. Based on the radio wiring diagram, do I need to also pull Fuse 23 that goes to amplifier but eventually feeds the radio?
How did you draw that conclusion? Pull the fuse if you want to, but again, how did you come to that conclusion?
How did you draw that conclusion? Pull the fuse if you want to, but again, how did you come to that conclusion?
Diagram shows Fuse #23 protecting the direct power feed to the Amplifier. The diagram also shows the Amplifier connected to the Radio at Terminal #4 which is a direct power connection protected by Fuse #8. The diagram shows that Terminal #4 on the Radio is connected to Terminal #9 on the Amplifier which is a connection to the power directly coming thru Fuse #23. So does the power protected by Fuse #23 stop at the Amplifier or is there the possibility the Radio could receive power from the Amplifier &/or vice versa? Clearly the radio is connected to the speakers via the amplifier. Just asking those that have the expertise. Looking at the wiring diagram "makes my head hurt"!
Last edited by dedwards0323; Mar 16, 2021 at 07:26 AM.
Hi, I have enjoyed my crossfire for 3 months - all good. I have oem radio/cd player in my car. Was driving at weekend - radio on and switching between stations okay. Today went in, started car and radio came on automatically but none of the buttons were responsive ie I couldn’t turn it off, lower volume or change modes. The only button that was working was the cd eject.
Would be grateful if anyone is stare of issue or more importantly any quick fixes.
Gary
I don't have a stock radio, but just looking back at 10 to 15 year old posts, it has happened before. As Pizzaguy suggested, the trick must be in resetting the microprocessor.
Here are some old posts. I don't know if they help or not.
Now all sorted! Absolutely fantastic! Can I say a very, very big thank you! This is the first query that I’ve had to raise on the forum and it is very much appreciated. When I was investigating as part of my decision as to whether or not to buy a Crossfire (a lovely, cherished black SRT 6), I was mindful that in absence of a Chrysler dealer network and support in Scotland/UK. This forum though and the plethora of information it provides was more than a compensatory factor in my decision to proceed. Thanks all, again.
Fyi - I removed fuses 5 & 8, carried out a software reset (I have the Nav oem unit), which I did by pressing the DTM button and numbers 1 and 3, inserted the radio code and hey presto! Whatever gremlin was in the system is now away (at least for now!). The bonus is I’ve now been able to pair my iPhone with the Bluetooth unit that the previous owner had installed to the oem unit (by Becker Sound LLC in USA), so happy days!
Now all sorted! Absolutely fantastic! Can I say a very, very big thank you! This is the first query that I’ve had to raise on the forum and it is very much appreciated. When I was investigating as part of my decision as to whether or not to buy a Crossfire (a lovely, cherished black SRT 6), I was mindful that in absence of a Chrysler dealer network and support in Scotland/UK. This forum though and the plethora of information it provides was more than a compensatory factor in my decision to proceed. Thanks all, again.
Fyi - I removed fuses 5 & 8, carried out a software reset (I have the Nav oem unit), which I did by pressing the DTM button and numbers 1 and 3, inserted the radio code and hey presto! Whatever gremlin was in the system is now away (at least for now!). The bonus is I’ve now been able to pair my iPhone with the Bluetooth unit that the previous owner had installed to the oem unit (by Becker Sound LLC in USA), so happy days!
This is the first time you mention the NAV unit, isn't it?
The reset of the OEM NAV unit is not done how you say it is, are you sure it is the original NAV radio.
DTM, 1 and 3 what is that?
Now all sorted! Absolutely fantastic! Can I say a very, very big thank you! This is the first query that I’ve had to raise on the forum and it is very much appreciated. When I was investigating as part of my decision as to whether or not to buy a Crossfire (a lovely, cherished black SRT 6), I was mindful that in absence of a Chrysler dealer network and support in Scotland/UK. This forum though and the plethora of information it provides was more than a compensatory factor in my decision to proceed. Thanks all, again.
Fyi - I removed fuses 5 & 8, carried out a software reset (I have the Nav oem unit), which I did by pressing the DTM button and numbers 1 and 3, inserted the radio code and hey presto! Whatever gremlin was in the system is now away (at least for now!). The bonus is I’ve now been able to pair my iPhone with the Bluetooth unit that the previous owner had installed to the oem unit (by Becker Sound LLC in USA), so happy days!
EU units had a passcode that had to be entered in the head unit after certain instances, like 'resets'. I"m sure it was some sort of scheme to discourage theft.
DTM button is the first function button in top left hand side. Buttons 1 and 3 relate to the bottom buttons. I have a security code that needs entered when system is reset as per previous response.
Fyi - I removed fuses 5 & 8, carried out a software reset (I have the Nav oem unit), which I did by pressing the DTM button and numbers 1 and 3, inserted the radio code and hey presto! Whatever gremlin was in the system is now away (at least for now!). The bonus is I’ve now been able to pair my iPhone with the Bluetooth unit that the previous owner had installed to the oem unit (by Becker Sound LLC in USA), so happy days!
Curious if you performed the software reset with the fuses pulled? Is the software reset even possible with the fuses pulled? If the fuses were re-inserted before the software reset, did you have the key in the ACC position so the leg with Fuse #5 was powered up? Or did you have the key in the ON position which powered up legs with Fuses #5,& #23? Just wanting to follow your efforts when dealing with the same issue with my car. And congrats on getting your issue resolved.
Took out the fuses. When I put back in and turned car on, the radio was asking for security code. The keys were still unresponsive when I was trying to press the correct keys. I carried out the reset then and then it allowed me to put the security code in.