what could be happening?
it began happening to me yesterday. it last for a few seconds. checked the battery and all is o k. volts, amps, CCA, SOC, SOH. everything.
then today again. this time was for some 5 minutes when on the expressway and when reached a stop it was gone. did not come back when driving for a while.
my battery is 1 year old and kept in best shape. when running, the alternator gives constant readings that show 14 amps. even at a stop.
if anybody has experience with these symptoms, advice will be appreciated.

 

Read all the articles and links you have posted, the answer must lay there somewhere.

 

My guess would be a loose connection or a failing alternator or battery.

 

Theoretically, the battery light comes on ONLY when the voltage in the instrument panel (and therefore, in general, the electrical system/battery as a whole) is HIGHER than the voltage in the tertiary winding of the alternator. What that means, is that the Alternator cant possibly be charging. Note I did not say it was NOT charging, it is an indication that it can't be charging. Only an ammeter will really show us the charging action of the alternator - but they took such meters off our cars years ago, in favor of giving simple indications that tell us little, other than "there is a problem" - which is not helpful.

What all this means, is that the "Battery Light" is not so much an indicator of the condition of the battery, but of the alternator's charging status. MOST of the time, alternators simply DIE. IN cases where the light comes and goes, I'd suspect slipping belt or, again, a dying alternator.

But again, this is THEORY. There have been a lot of reports of a goofy battery causing the light to come on and off repeatedly. You SURE the battery is OK? I bought a new battery for the SE back in 2016. It lasted four months. "New" does not mean "it's gotta be ok".

 

Had it happen to me, my alternator was failing. Mine came on and off then it eventually stayed on. Replaced it and ive been fine since.

 

am using this:

it has been showing 14v all the time. even when the light comes on. i was under the impression that this tells the alternator is doing fine.

 

and what about using a code reader? with symptoms like mine, what could i get? anybody has tried it to check the alternator? if so, what readings i should expect?
will try as soon as i can, but would be great if some1 with experience in this situation would help.

 

i heard that has to be tested under load. how you do this guys?

 

well, here i found something: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post946384
seems that the brushes may be worn out, and the suggestion to use a scanner makes sense, so will do this asap.
still, having to remove the alternator to check the brushes is ridiculous, as it is complicated. could be an easier, more technical way?

 

Not that hard to remove if you pull the radiator fan first ( 2 clips and the voltage plug )
MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY LEAD !!!

 

thank you sir. will remove it to check the brushes, and will be familiar with the routine for whenever so will be easier.
i was dreaming of a way to check it without removing it...

 

Looks like you are using a battery tester like , which is good for determining overall battery condition. I would tend to agree with those that point to an alternator issue. A functional failure with the alternator has surfaced. The functional failure being defined as "inability to adequately provide/sustain charging capability to the electrical system". That failure mode could be caused by a number of faults, One could be simply a slipping belt condition, which is easily fixed. Take a close look at the drive belt to see if you see any signs of fatigue (stress cracks along the webbing). Change the belt if you finds this failure mode. Most direct alternator failures are addressed by a new alternator; rebuilt parts industry has made this somewhat economical to us DIYers. . You could remove the alternator & have it checked by a service shop that specializes in alternator & starter rebuilds. These shops have the capability to check the alternator under load. I've got one near to me that I've used occasionally. Good luck with your ongoing diagnosis & repair.

 

terrific. thank you very much.
now, i would like to have a link to suppliers of brushes and regulator? i understand the regulator is different depending on the brand.
any1?

 

I would not expect the belt to slip because of the belt tensioner. Oil or water/coolant could cause it slip. Check the belt condition anyway. You have to sure that you have the correct amperage as well as voltage. The correct voltage must have sufficient amperage to start the car.
A loose or poor battery/ground connector will allow the voltage to show but will fail the amperage requirements. Corrosion in the battery cables means there are acid vapours leaking from the battery at the terminals, get a new battery. The old pitch batteries leaked at the posts all the time and we used to put those acid eating washers around the posts, the new polypropylene batteries should not leak as the plastic shrinks around the post as the plastic cools, if you have leakage at the post you must get a new battery or the acid will start to eat your car.
Those pitch batteries slowly lost power if left on concrete etc as the charge leaked through the slightly conductive pitch, the new plastic batteries do not discharge through the plastic.

 

Attached is a link to a fairly good YouTube video on replacing the brush pack & regulator assembly on a Bosch alternator.

CLICK" target="_blank">CLICK

 

Here's a link to a site where you can purchase parts for the alternator. CLICK

Not sure this does much good for the Crossfire.

Might try this one: CLICK

 

thank you very much. my car drives fine. no more battery light. but as the symptoms are erratic, am going to replace the alternator anyway, once having those warnings.

i got is this: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233952552450...0aAt8HEALw_wcB
it says that fits the crossfire. still have to remove the 1 in the car. also, tried the scanner and tells that everything is o k.
if you are in canada: https://www.totalpartscanada.com/pro...ss-clk-ml.html

 

am beginning to see the light. in this pic i found the brushes-finally !!!
now i know what to look after. at the lower left on the pic

 

thanks. now i can see the brushes. he points at them at 1:27 thanks again.

 

still i will open the 1 that has been installed just to learn the condition of the brushes. if worn out will replace them (or the voltage regulator that comes with them). i guess that was the reason for the erratic behavior.
and when i install the new 1 will check its performance and tell here.
but may take some time, as the symptoms have been erratic.
once again, thanks a zillion for all the terrific help.