opinions wanted please...
All of a sudden my xfire ran rough and lost a bit of power. I pulled over to the side of the road and read the check engine light codes.
control unit 10
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire
P0154 O2 sensor 1 bank 2 no activity
P0134 O2 sensor 1 bank 1 no activity
I waited for the engine to cool off ( I walked around for 30 minutes). Then I checked the tightness of the spark plug wires and it seemed the same on all cylinders I could reach. (I have no idea which cylinder is #2)
I then drove the car home (5 miles) and it ran nice and smooth like normal. I reset the codes but was wondering do you think it is ok to drive the car? I let the car run at idle for 15 minutes after resetting the codes and the codes did not return.
control unit 10
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire
P0154 O2 sensor 1 bank 2 no activity
P0134 O2 sensor 1 bank 1 no activity
I waited for the engine to cool off ( I walked around for 30 minutes). Then I checked the tightness of the spark plug wires and it seemed the same on all cylinders I could reach. (I have no idea which cylinder is #2)
I then drove the car home (5 miles) and it ran nice and smooth like normal. I reset the codes but was wondering do you think it is ok to drive the car? I let the car run at idle for 15 minutes after resetting the codes and the codes did not return.
Cylinder 2 is the middle one, passenger side.
Those two O2 sensors are fed from separate power feeds, so there is no common path to THOSE two, the upstream sensors are powered together and the downstream sensors are powered together, but you have the upstream and downstream on one side failing at the same time. Very odd.
The fact the ECU detected a misfire on the 1st bank, apparently at the same time as 1st bank O2 sensors failing, does not mean that ONLY that side had an issue, it's just that the ECU only caught it on one side.
Its fine to drive the car, but I don't trust the car now, and neither do you. "No activity" would imply there was no return signal from the sensors, but again, if power to the sensors failed, the sensors on the other side would have failed, as they are powered from the same sources.
I hate to go there, but how old is the battery? More questions: Was this car stored this winter? Have you observed any odd behavior when starting the engine?
Those two O2 sensors are fed from separate power feeds, so there is no common path to THOSE two, the upstream sensors are powered together and the downstream sensors are powered together, but you have the upstream and downstream on one side failing at the same time. Very odd.
The fact the ECU detected a misfire on the 1st bank, apparently at the same time as 1st bank O2 sensors failing, does not mean that ONLY that side had an issue, it's just that the ECU only caught it on one side.
Its fine to drive the car, but I don't trust the car now, and neither do you. "No activity" would imply there was no return signal from the sensors, but again, if power to the sensors failed, the sensors on the other side would have failed, as they are powered from the same sources.
I hate to go there, but how old is the battery? More questions: Was this car stored this winter? Have you observed any odd behavior when starting the engine?
Pizzaguy Those are both upstream sensors #1; One is passenger side, other drivers side. Easy mistake the way Joe has it written.
Last edited by zip439; May 28, 2021 at 01:40 PM.
But "No activity" implies to me that the ECU was confused (since I doubt two sensors suddenly went catatonic).
I"m going to stick with my "I think it's the battery" line.... For the time being, anyway.
Cylinder 2 is the middle one, passenger side.
Those two O2 sensors are fed from separate power feeds, so there is no common path to THOSE two, the upstream sensors are powered together and the downstream sensors are powered together, but you have the upstream and downstream on one side failing at the same time. Very odd.
The fact the ECU detected a misfire on the 1st bank, apparently at the same time as 1st bank O2 sensors failing, does not mean that ONLY that side had an issue, it's just that the ECU only caught it on one side.
Its fine to drive the car, but I don't trust the car now, and neither do you. "No activity" would imply there was no return signal from the sensors, but again, if power to the sensors failed, the sensors on the other side would have failed, as they are powered from the same sources.
I hate to go there, but how old is the battery? More questions: Was this car stored this winter? Have you observed any odd behavior when starting the engine?
Those two O2 sensors are fed from separate power feeds, so there is no common path to THOSE two, the upstream sensors are powered together and the downstream sensors are powered together, but you have the upstream and downstream on one side failing at the same time. Very odd.
The fact the ECU detected a misfire on the 1st bank, apparently at the same time as 1st bank O2 sensors failing, does not mean that ONLY that side had an issue, it's just that the ECU only caught it on one side.
Its fine to drive the car, but I don't trust the car now, and neither do you. "No activity" would imply there was no return signal from the sensors, but again, if power to the sensors failed, the sensors on the other side would have failed, as they are powered from the same sources.
I hate to go there, but how old is the battery? More questions: Was this car stored this winter? Have you observed any odd behavior when starting the engine?
The 2 cats and 3 O2 sensors were replaced 2 years ago. 1 O2 sensor is old but I don't remember if it is the front or back sensor.
The car has been stored for about 5 months with a trickle charger and the battery is five or six years old. I admit to be somewhat unobservant but everything seems normal to me and I just had the car out the day before for a 100 mile drive. I got gas yesterday. If dirt stuck in the injector of cylinder 2 and then cleared itself cause this problem? Do I need to replace the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor?
I would rather put in a new battery or do whatever is needed than get stuck by the side of the road in the rural mountains of NH where I might not have cell signal to call for help.....Even the downtown of the town where I live has no cell service!
Thank you for your comments and questions. I learned from your logic or pointing out that what happened had logical inconsistencies.
The 2 cats and 3 O2 sensors were replaced 2 years ago. 1 O2 sensor is old but I don't remember if it is the front or back sensor.
The car has been stored for about 5 months with a trickle charger and the battery is five or six years old. I admit to be somewhat unobservant but everything seems normal to me and I just had the car out the day before for a 100 mile drive. I got gas yesterday. If dirt stuck in the injector of cylinder 2 and then cleared itself cause this problem? Do I need to replace the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor?
I would rather put in a new battery or do whatever is needed than get stuck by the side of the road in the rural mountains of NH where I might not have cell signal to call for help.....Even the downtown of the town where I live has no cell service!
The 2 cats and 3 O2 sensors were replaced 2 years ago. 1 O2 sensor is old but I don't remember if it is the front or back sensor.
The car has been stored for about 5 months with a trickle charger and the battery is five or six years old. I admit to be somewhat unobservant but everything seems normal to me and I just had the car out the day before for a 100 mile drive. I got gas yesterday. If dirt stuck in the injector of cylinder 2 and then cleared itself cause this problem? Do I need to replace the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor?
I would rather put in a new battery or do whatever is needed than get stuck by the side of the road in the rural mountains of NH where I might not have cell signal to call for help.....Even the downtown of the town where I live has no cell service!
I still say battery, i know it's only four years old, but I change batteries at 48 months and have done so since the mid 2000's. The days of getting nine years from a battery are gone.
I'd prefer a battery tender, if you really mean trickle charger, just know that they can overcharge a battery where the tender SHOULD be intelligent enough to not overcharge.
I still say battery, i know it's only four years old, but I change batteries at 48 months and have done so since the mid 2000's. The days of getting nine years from a battery are gone.
I still say battery, i know it's only four years old, but I change batteries at 48 months and have done so since the mid 2000's. The days of getting nine years from a battery are gone.
I use a Deltran battery tender junior which is automatic but can only charge at a rate of 750 mA. I am so adverse to being stranded on the side of the road where there is no cell service I most likely will take the shot gun approach and take all suggested steps. I assume that if I change the battery every 4 years any AGM battery that fits will be ok. Any battery brands that I should avoid and any that I should favor?
Make sure it comes with at least one plug, preferably two in the ends of the top part of the battery. They are in.vent holes, one goes to an overflow and the other is plugged to stop acid getting on your car.
Often batteries that are on sale are batteries that have sat on the shelf too long. Check the date on the side of the battery casing and check the label that says when it was last charged, that label can tell you if it has the original charge still or been recharged.
Make sure it comes with at least one plug, preferably two in the ends of the top part of the battery. They are in.vent holes, one goes to an overflow and the other is plugged to stop acid getting on your car.
Make sure it comes with at least one plug, preferably two in the ends of the top part of the battery. They are in.vent holes, one goes to an overflow and the other is plugged to stop acid getting on your car.
It's standard for all car batteries today to have manufacture date stickers on them. Last year in separate purchases, I bought AGM batteries for two of my Crossfires using 40% off discount codes through Pepboys website for store pickup. Each time I verified they were not old stock before accepting them. I also bought an AGM for my Charger from Costco. Walked in and picked the battery with the newest date and purchased it.
The date of manufacture is moulded on the side top lip.
AGM batteries are more expensive and therefore most often the manufacturers proudly label them AGM on the top of the battery. In fact my AGM battery has AGM listed on the label in 3 places. The battery tender I use is effective and inexpensive, Deltran Battery Tender JR. You can type whatever is printed on the battery label in to google and search. You then will find the specs of the battery.
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