Beautiful job faiz!

 

dude you should sell this set up i'm sure a lot of us would be willing to let you make a $500 profit for the install and set up, since you've done it you could stream line the build up for everyone else. Even if you just did a mail out of parts you could pre build and make a killing i know for one i'm down, looks stellar loving the build congrats your work is mind blowing

 

if people are actually interested in getting an amp rack like i have mine built i can source out some sort of shop or cnc machine shop and look into sending my boards to them to have them measured and cut and then shipped back to me to carpet or vinyl wrap. i can get in touch with the company i went with to get the box for the subwoofer and that can be painted, carpeted and vinyl wrapped for a 10" or 12" and modded to fit a 10w7 or 12w7 or any sub smaller than those dimensions. 12w7 has a mounting depth of 9.5" which is very deep and box will be between 1.0 cuft -1.1 cu ft. for an additional charge it can be modded to around 1.3-1.4 cu ft and by stuffing polyfill you would get around 1.4-1.5cu which is a pretty big box. let me know if there is alteast 4 or more people intrested i would take the time to purse it and the wood would be 3/4 mdf.

 

That looks like it makes some serious power. Random question but what does all that weigh?

 

well i will add it up for you but this is rough idea

subwoofer 12w7: 45 pounds
sub box: 12 lbs
1000/1 amp: 18 lbs
450/4: 18
300/4: 12
batt: 26
amp rack: 25 lbs


total is roughly 138 lbs. i would say with replacing my stock speakers and upgrading with bigger speakers i probably only added 3 lbs per speaker so i am probably 150lbs total.

now you can shed some serious weight by looking at alpine PDX series or the jl HD series. Also i am running active which is very advanced and involves running a seperate channel for each speaker so the tweeter no longer run through a crossover but have then own independent channel on the 450/4 and i controll the crossover and slopes on the head unit.

you could get by with a 5-6 channel amp or a 4 channel and mono amp.

battery is not totally neccessary if you go with some efficient amps and use a bigger battery upfront with a smaller kinetik 600 batt in the rear. you are better off using batteries in the rear then using caps.

[MEDIA]http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/46753/big/hc600.jpg[/MEDIA]

[MEDIA]http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/5553/big/hc800.jpg[/MEDIA]

[MEDIA]http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/29969/big/hc1800.jpg[/MEDIA]
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i went overboard since i am a big audiophile.

 

NICE JOB!!! Now I know why you put in all the sound deadening. I really like the way everything is hidden. Bonus - with all the extra weight in the rear, car should handle well in the snow.

 

yup since it is a daily driver no longer the need to run the sand bags in winter and when i feel like going to the track i will remove the sub enclosure, couple amps and the main battery up front and run the smaller 950 cca battery in the rear. hopefully the added 65 lbs will give me weight to stop the tires from breaking loose on shifts.

 

is this the box you have... I have been wanting to get 1 Alpine 12 Type R and this box. Not sure what size amp I should get. Wanted 1 15 but Wicked Customs dont make but 10 and 12" boxes for xfire. Have you here the Type R's before...are they good subs?

 

yes that is the box and please please please do not get the TYPE R SUBS

they are amazing subs when used in a ported box and SUCK BALLZ when used in a sealed box.


look at

alpine type e or type s

rockford p3 or rockford power series

jl audio w6 or w7

many other quality brands like focal, cerwin vega, re audio, fi audio,

look up

www.caraudio.com and go to the subwoofer section

www.diymobileaudio.com

you need a monster sub something that will take around 500-1000 watts since you will only have one sub and need something powerful as 2 subs to make up for the space.

Be careful i wish i knew this but the box they have is only made for 12" around 1.0-1.1cu ft which is not a bad box but for bigger subs like w7 it likes around 1.4 net cu ft. you can add polyfill like i did and rule is around 1lbs of polyfill for each cu ft.

let me know if you got other questions and i might be selling my sub box and sub pretty soon if you interested want to try something different. I have used the sub for about a month so not even broken in and box is modded for deep subs like w7.

regardless if you get the setup from nazar/wicked tell them you want it modded for a 12w7 little extra but will end up with a bigger box so you can try different subs.

 

Thanks man!! Did you put the dynamat in your car. I want clean bass with as little rattle as possible. I really don't know much about systems but have a friend with a s-10 that hits so hard. It's like when you hear it...you hear the words in first wave then the second wave is the bass right behind it. Hard to explain but it's the nicest, cleanest system I have heard(not saying much) though. Now can you hook up say the W7...12 single to a 1000 watt amp and be safe. Dont want to add a new alternator. Will the factory subs still be working with these or will they not be playing?

 

look at my gallery and yes i put down plenty of deadener there is a thread on deadener in the coupe section. you do not have to buy dynamat since you are paying for the name look at


www.raamaudio.com

www.secondskinaudio.com

1 roll around 60sqft of raam mat is plenty to do the trunk, doors, hatch, and wall where the stock subs are.


any time you do audio you want to do the basic big three electrical upgrade


1/0 gauge power wire from alt + to batt +

1/0 gauge ground from batt to chassis

1/0 gauge ground from batt to engine block.

then add a mini battery in the rear like the ones i posted the kinetik 800 is an awesome battery and easy to tuck away in the car once you make an amp rack.

jl 12w7 will sound awesome around 750-1000 watts, you can run it on 500 and it will pound but can distort at higher volumes where the 1000 watts is plenty of head room

 

I am running 2 alpine type r 12's in a custom slot ported box in mine, and WOW is it ungodly loud. The subs are AMAZING subs expecially for the price, but as FAIZ said, they are not great for sealed applications.

 

What size and brand amp are pushing them?

 

NICE JOB!

Glad I can't hear it cuz I'd have to get a system.

 

I have a 10+ year old hand built Soundstream amp pushing them. It is rated at 400W and we bench tested it at over 800W (competition amps used to way under rate power so you could slide into lower classes in competitions). I think between 300-400 watts on a type R 12 is very sufficient...

 

Think I am gonna go with the single JL W7 and JL 1000w/1 amp. Any suggestions on door speakers...what size are they anyways.

 

6.5" component use the stock bracket, add deadener to the door i will post the link read up on deadening the door. you will want to do the outside skin of the door where the speaker backwaves will hit, use couple layers, then you will want to do the inside skin, do the door skin it self where the speaker will mount to.lastly do the door panel it self that you remove off the door the back of the panel will buzz and the area where the airbag is it need 2-3 layer but do not put deadener in the way of the airbag just around that area.


honestly it is like 70% install and 30% equipment. Kick *** speakers can sound like *** if not done right

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...reatments.html


get some good speakers tell me your budget on speakers and i can put you in the right direction. $250, $500, $750.....

good choice on the amp and sub but what box do you plan to use keep in mind for w7 you need 1.375. if you go with the magic box that tucks into the side by the driver than ask nazar to mod it to make it as large as possible since you want around 1.3.1.4 cu sealed and you can add some polyfill around a 1lb do add some more volume.


enjoy

 

also if you are wanting to do it right please spend some good money to get some 1/0 gauge wire so you never have to worry about resistance in the wire. i ran a 1.0 for power and ground and than ground in the rear as a backup as well.

i upgraded the grounds on the big three waiting on some more wire to do the alt-pos wire.

get a mini battery in the back instead of a cap you will spend 100 bucks to get a 1-5 farad cap. my little kinetik battery is around 125 shipped and will be equilvilent to 200 1 farad caps.

also you need to get a bigger battery deep cycle to sustain heavy bass drops.

kinetik says i think you need like khc 1400 as starting battery and then anything on top will be your system.

i have a khc 1800 and a khc 800 for a total of 2600 watts- 1400 for starting = 1200 watts which is fine since you will never max out your system and use all the wattage unless you are doing heavy competition bass burps.

enjoy

 

Now thats the way to do an install dude. Kudos

 

As always Faiz, good advice, especially about the install being a major part of the quality of sound you will get. I used to hate working in a shop and no one would ever listen to that, they wanted bigger and louder but would never do it right....