what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 14
From: MOFN, AL, 70 miles from George
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I have a set of very similar pictures, but was unable to upload them. I'll try again tonight. Can't have too much info...
Do you like them? I installed a Kenwood 75 W/ch amp under the pass. seat. Cheap, easy way to go.
Oh-BTW-it's called the "Basket". At least by us...or me.
Do you like them? I installed a Kenwood 75 W/ch amp under the pass. seat. Cheap, easy way to go.
Oh-BTW-it's called the "Basket". At least by us...or me.
Forum Regular
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 488
Likes: 5
From: Austin, TX
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
problem solved
My friend had all the tools so the only 2 tools I was able to use were
1)a huge wood saw
2)a drill
I drilled so many holes next to each other to be able to cut pieces out from the plastic housing(for a Turk, there is no such a thing as impossible
) and it worked out pretty well...
It took about 10 minutes each.
Quality of the speaker is perfect for 16$. installing a separate amp is going to be next audio improvement.
I am adding pictures so people can see/know what parts to cut.
My friend had all the tools so the only 2 tools I was able to use were
1)a huge wood saw
2)a drill
I drilled so many holes next to each other to be able to cut pieces out from the plastic housing(for a Turk, there is no such a thing as impossible
) and it worked out pretty well...It took about 10 minutes each.
Quality of the speaker is perfect for 16$. installing a separate amp is going to be next audio improvement.
I am adding pictures so people can see/know what parts to cut.
I started off drilling a lot of holes like you did. Didn't have the patience so I went to Home Depot and bought a cutting disc. I think these definitely need more power.
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: san antonio
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I wasnt expecting a lot from them so I am happy
They are about the same as the original set...but I. Feel like they will sound better once I connect the amp.
They are about the same as the original set...but I. Feel like they will sound better once I connect the amp.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
-Boss BP6.8 - No modification - direct fit
-Lanzar VW64 - No modification - direct fit
-Pyramid WX65X - No modification - direct fit
-MTX Audio RTX658 - No modification - direct fit
-Boss Audio NP6.4 - No modification - direct fit
-Earthquake Sound SWS-6.5X - No modification - direct fit
-Crossfire XS M6 6" XS - No modification - direct fit
-Kicker CVT654 - No modification - direct fit
-Tang Band W6 - modification and cutting required
-Ultra series LV 6 - modification and cutting required
-JL Audio 6W3v3-4 - - modification and cutting required
-DD Audio SW6.5 - modification and cutting required
-RE Audio XXX6.5C - modification and cutting required
-Peerless SLS 6.5 - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio CL-6MSUB - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio M6+ - modification and cutting required
Best overall sounding in no particular order & requires modification and cutting.
-DLS Reference RW6
-CDT Audio ES-06
-Focal Utopia Be 5" (13ws)
-JL Audio 6W3v3-4
-JL Audio C5-650cw
-Rainbow Vanadium 7"
-Lanzar VW64 - No modification - direct fit
-Pyramid WX65X - No modification - direct fit
-MTX Audio RTX658 - No modification - direct fit
-Boss Audio NP6.4 - No modification - direct fit
-Earthquake Sound SWS-6.5X - No modification - direct fit
-Crossfire XS M6 6" XS - No modification - direct fit
-Kicker CVT654 - No modification - direct fit
-Tang Band W6 - modification and cutting required
-Ultra series LV 6 - modification and cutting required
-JL Audio 6W3v3-4 - - modification and cutting required
-DD Audio SW6.5 - modification and cutting required
-RE Audio XXX6.5C - modification and cutting required
-Peerless SLS 6.5 - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio CL-6MSUB - modification and cutting required
-CDT Audio M6+ - modification and cutting required
Best overall sounding in no particular order & requires modification and cutting.
-DLS Reference RW6
-CDT Audio ES-06
-Focal Utopia Be 5" (13ws)
-JL Audio 6W3v3-4
-JL Audio C5-650cw
-Rainbow Vanadium 7"
what are you smoking? these don't fit! I purchased Kicker cvt654. Not even close to fitting into the speaker enclosure. Why the BS!!! We don't need this.
Forum Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Upstate, SC
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Left Rear:
PK = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
DG = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
BL = Left Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
BR/RD = Left Rear Speaker Ground
Right Rear:
BL/RD = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
BK/YL = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
VT = Right Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
RD/YL = Right Rear Speaker Ground
I found this interesting and confusing. Obviously I see the + and - on 2 of the wires and I'm guessing voltage supply is + and speaker ground is - for the other 2 but this seems to indicate these are different functions - amplified and non-amplified. Should that give me any concerns for the Pyles? Does it matter which side of the speaker these should connect? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Forum Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: Durham, NC
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
That's the way it would be marked if the amp and speakers were in the same package.
Do the colors in the diagram match the connector? And are some of the wires twisted pairs. Signal wires would be twisted. Power and ground not twisted.
Do the colors in the diagram match the connector? And are some of the wires twisted pairs. Signal wires would be twisted. Power and ground not twisted.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 14
From: MOFN, AL, 70 miles from George
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Max, I just purchased some of the Pyle speakers (Wally-World online) and I'm planning on doing this swap this weekend due to a blown right sub. My question is on the Pyles, there are + - spades on one side and + - spades on the other side. In looking at the service manual to match the wire to the correct spade, I noticed the following:
Left Rear:
PK = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
DG = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
BL = Left Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
BR/RD = Left Rear Speaker Ground
Right Rear:
BL/RD = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
BK/YL = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
VT = Right Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
RD/YL = Right Rear Speaker Ground
I found this interesting and confusing. Obviously I see the + and - on 2 of the wires and I'm guessing voltage supply is + and speaker ground is - for the other 2 but this seems to indicate these are different functions - amplified and non-amplified. Should that give me any concerns for the Pyles? Does it matter which side of the speaker these should connect? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Left Rear:
PK = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
DG = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
BL = Left Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
BR/RD = Left Rear Speaker Ground
Right Rear:
BL/RD = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
BK/YL = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
VT = Right Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
RD/YL = Right Rear Speaker Ground
I found this interesting and confusing. Obviously I see the + and - on 2 of the wires and I'm guessing voltage supply is + and speaker ground is - for the other 2 but this seems to indicate these are different functions - amplified and non-amplified. Should that give me any concerns for the Pyles? Does it matter which side of the speaker these should connect? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
I used a pair of wires with clips n them to temporarily hook up each voice coil to make sure all 4 would get a signal.
BUT I was wiring a 2-channel amp. Not a 4-channel speaker. I used one channel from the left and one from the right to run the amp, and wired the VC's in each sub in series to make a 4-ohm load for the amp.
I didn't really need to follow any other conventions.
Forum Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Upstate, SC
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Arejohn, I haven't taken out the OEM speakers. Trying to get everything together before I begin. I pulled the wiring diagram from the tech pub post. I guess I'm trying to go with the knowledge of folks that have done the swap.
I treated the oddly-named circuits as the 2nd voice coils.
I used a pair of wires with clips n them to temporarily hook up each voice coil to make sure all 4 would get a signal.
BUT I was wiring a 2-channel amp. Not a 4-channel speaker. I used one channel from the left and one from the right to run the amp, and wired the VC's in each sub in series to make a 4-ohm load for the amp.
I didn't really need to follow any other conventions.
I used a pair of wires with clips n them to temporarily hook up each voice coil to make sure all 4 would get a signal.
BUT I was wiring a 2-channel amp. Not a 4-channel speaker. I used one channel from the left and one from the right to run the amp, and wired the VC's in each sub in series to make a 4-ohm load for the amp.
I didn't really need to follow any other conventions.
Max, I had thought you said you swapped the Pyles with the original amp setup (before you upgraded your amp). If the OEM speaker has + and - for both coils, I can swap as is because the new Pyles have + and - on one side and + and - on the other side.
Forum Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Upstate, SC
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I do apologize. I must had mis-read your post #32 on 2-16-14. I had thought it sounded like you installed the Pyles. I thought you said they sounded better than stock with the OEM amp then you decided to upgrade the amp.
I chose the Pyle's on a price point and fit match.
Installed them, turned on the HU and without changing any settings, the bass response had improved quite a bit.
Played with sound settings in the Pioneer HU and made it pretty nice-I could now do 75 and still hear the tunes, clearly. BUT-when I pushed the volume, I noticed clipping and dimming of the HU lighting. I figure the new subs, while louder, were more of a load on the OEM amp. Decided to find a separate amp for the subs (makes sense to me?). Bought a Kenwood KAC-1502S. 2-channel, bridgeable, with adjustable input sensitivity (1-4.5 V) to match the 2V sub-out from my new HU.
Thanks for the replies. I do appreciate all the info I get from this forum.
Installed them, turned on the HU and without changing any settings, the bass response had improved quite a bit.
Played with sound settings in the Pioneer HU and made it pretty nice-I could now do 75 and still hear the tunes, clearly. BUT-when I pushed the volume, I noticed clipping and dimming of the HU lighting. I figure the new subs, while louder, were more of a load on the OEM amp. Decided to find a separate amp for the subs (makes sense to me?). Bought a Kenwood KAC-1502S. 2-channel, bridgeable, with adjustable input sensitivity (1-4.5 V) to match the 2V sub-out from my new HU.
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 239
Likes: 1
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Max, I just purchased some of the Pyle speakers (Wally-World online) and I'm planning on doing this swap this weekend due to a blown right sub. My question is on the Pyles, there are + - spades on one side and + - spades on the other side. In looking at the service manual to match the wire to the correct spade, I noticed the following:
Left Rear:
PK = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
DG = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
BL = Left Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
BR/RD = Left Rear Speaker Ground
Right Rear:
BL/RD = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
BK/YL = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
VT = Right Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
RD/YL = Right Rear Speaker Ground
I found this interesting and confusing. Obviously I see the + and - on 2 of the wires and I'm guessing voltage supply is + and speaker ground is - for the other 2 but this seems to indicate these are different functions - amplified and non-amplified. Should that give me any concerns for the Pyles? Does it matter which side of the speaker these should connect? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
Left Rear:
PK = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (+)
DG = Amplified Left Rear Speaker (-)
BL = Left Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
BR/RD = Left Rear Speaker Ground
Right Rear:
BL/RD = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (+)
BK/YL = Amplified Right Rear Speaker (-)
VT = Right Rear Speaker Supply Voltage
RD/YL = Right Rear Speaker Ground
I found this interesting and confusing. Obviously I see the + and - on 2 of the wires and I'm guessing voltage supply is + and speaker ground is - for the other 2 but this seems to indicate these are different functions - amplified and non-amplified. Should that give me any concerns for the Pyles? Does it matter which side of the speaker these should connect? Any info would be helpful. Thanks
First your post fuses two different areas. The colored wires you list for the left and right subs are the wires from the speaker harness to the amplifier and really have nothing to do with the spade connections for the Subs themselves.
Lets first deal with the +/- spade connections for the subs themselves, without worrying about the colored wires from the harness to the amp.. Because after you plug the sub harness up at its harness the wires between the harness and amp automatically fall into place if you have not done any disconnect, which you should not have if you are still dealing with the factory amp.
Now back to the subs themselves. For EACH SUB, there are 1 pair of red and black wires and 1 pair of white and green wires---making a total of 4 spade connector wires for each sub. Dealing with only one sub, connect the red wire on the positive and black wire on the negative (both on either the left OR right side it does not matter). Then go to the other side of the same Sub and connect the white wire on + and the green wire on -, both on the same side. Then go do the same thing for the other sub. After that connect the harness plug and your all done.
If you want to check to make sure you have your polarity correct, take a small 12 volt drill battery AND take speaker wire and attach the positive side of the wire to the + side and negative wire to the - side of the Pyle. Then touch the other end of the wire to the drill battery. If the polarity is correct the sub will pulse outward. If if is wrong the speaker will pule inward on itself. You want the sub pulsing outward because that is the way the base reverberates. Do this same test for each side of the Pyle to make sure your polarities are correct. You really don't have to do this test it is something that technicians do to test polarity.
To answer your further question, it does not matter what side of the Pyle you connect the red/black and white/green connections. Keep in mind that those four sets of spade wires are to connect the TWO separate voice coils per sup given that the piles are dual coil.
I hope this helps. Others who are more informed will join in an build on the info I supplied. I am just giving you my input having struggled with this very same matter for the last two days and finally got everything up and running
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 14
From: MOFN, AL, 70 miles from George
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I do apologize. I must had mis-read your post #32 on 2-16-14. I had thought it sounded like you installed the Pyles. I thought you said they sounded better than stock with the OEM amp then you decided to upgrade the amp.
I chose the Pyle's on a price point and fit match.
Installed them, turned on the HU and without changing any settings, the bass response had improved quite a bit.
Played with sound settings in the Pioneer HU and made it pretty nice-I could now do 75 and still hear the tunes, clearly. BUT-when I pushed the volume, I noticed clipping and dimming of the HU lighting. I figure the new subs, while louder, were more of a load on the OEM amp. Decided to find a separate amp for the subs (makes sense to me?). Bought a Kenwood KAC-1502S. 2-channel, bridgeable, with adjustable input sensitivity (1-4.5 V) to match the 2V sub-out from my new HU.
Thanks for the replies. I do appreciate all the info I get from this forum.Installed them, turned on the HU and without changing any settings, the bass response had improved quite a bit.
Played with sound settings in the Pioneer HU and made it pretty nice-I could now do 75 and still hear the tunes, clearly. BUT-when I pushed the volume, I noticed clipping and dimming of the HU lighting. I figure the new subs, while louder, were more of a load on the OEM amp. Decided to find a separate amp for the subs (makes sense to me?). Bought a Kenwood KAC-1502S. 2-channel, bridgeable, with adjustable input sensitivity (1-4.5 V) to match the 2V sub-out from my new HU.
However, my excuse is: the "wiring harness" inside the basket is very obvious, and the spade terminals on the OEM subs were marked/different sizes, Big for (+) and small for (-). The wires were SOLID for (+) and STRIPED for (-).
I didn't have to figure anything out.
Howzat'?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 239
Likes: 1
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Heh Max:
I finished my install and realized that perhaps I should get a little more thump in the car besides the Pyle subs and my JL audio 600/4 amp. Did you go with a dedicated amp and subwoofer. If so what added subwoofer (besides the rear subs in the stock locations) did you go with? Is there a sub and amp you would recommend to give me a little more thump? I would probably run the two rear subs (Pyles) simply as rear speakers to give me a surround sound effect and then use a 10" sub in the back compartment with a dedicated amp. But I do not know which way to go with the sub and amp. Any suggestions from anyone that would provide me a better thump for my car?
I finished my install and realized that perhaps I should get a little more thump in the car besides the Pyle subs and my JL audio 600/4 amp. Did you go with a dedicated amp and subwoofer. If so what added subwoofer (besides the rear subs in the stock locations) did you go with? Is there a sub and amp you would recommend to give me a little more thump? I would probably run the two rear subs (Pyles) simply as rear speakers to give me a surround sound effect and then use a 10" sub in the back compartment with a dedicated amp. But I do not know which way to go with the sub and amp. Any suggestions from anyone that would provide me a better thump for my car?
Forum Regular
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 339
Likes: 3
From: Upstate, SC
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Okay: ICjust went thru this very same confusion for the last two days and finally finished up my install of the Pyles today. Max can attest that I sent him 2 days ago a panic message about the very same concerns. With his help I finally figured it all out.
First your post fuses two different areas. The colored wires you list for the left and right subs are the wires from the speaker harness to the amplifier and really have nothing to do with the spade connections for the Subs themselves.
Lets first deal with the +/- spade connections for the subs themselves, without worrying about the colored wires from the harness to the amp.. Because after you plug the sub harness up at its harness the wires between the harness and amp automatically fall into place if you have not done any disconnect, which you should not have if you are still dealing with the factory amp.
Now back to the subs themselves. For EACH SUB, there are 1 pair of red and black wires and 1 pair of white and green wires---making a total of 4 spade connector wires for each sub. Dealing with only one sub, connect the red wire on the positive and black wire on the negative (both on either the left OR right side it does not matter). Then go to the other side of the same Sub and connect the white wire on + and the green wire on -, both on the same side. Then go do the same thing for the other sub. After that connect the harness plug and your all done.
If you want to check to make sure you have your polarity correct, take a small 12 volt drill battery AND take speaker wire and attach the positive side of the wire to the + side and negative wire to the - side of the Pyle. Then touch the other end of the wire to the drill battery. If the polarity is correct the sub will pulse outward. If if is wrong the speaker will pule inward on itself. You want the sub pulsing outward because that is the way the base reverberates. Do this same test for each side of the Pyle to make sure your polarities are correct. You really don't have to do this test it is something that technicians do to test polarity.
To answer your further question, it does not matter what side of the Pyle you connect the red/black and white/green connections. Keep in mind that those four sets of spade wires are to connect the TWO separate voice coils per sup given that the piles are dual coil.
I hope this helps. Others who are more informed will join in an build on the info I supplied. I am just giving you my input having struggled with this very same matter for the last two days and finally got everything up and running
First your post fuses two different areas. The colored wires you list for the left and right subs are the wires from the speaker harness to the amplifier and really have nothing to do with the spade connections for the Subs themselves.
Lets first deal with the +/- spade connections for the subs themselves, without worrying about the colored wires from the harness to the amp.. Because after you plug the sub harness up at its harness the wires between the harness and amp automatically fall into place if you have not done any disconnect, which you should not have if you are still dealing with the factory amp.
Now back to the subs themselves. For EACH SUB, there are 1 pair of red and black wires and 1 pair of white and green wires---making a total of 4 spade connector wires for each sub. Dealing with only one sub, connect the red wire on the positive and black wire on the negative (both on either the left OR right side it does not matter). Then go to the other side of the same Sub and connect the white wire on + and the green wire on -, both on the same side. Then go do the same thing for the other sub. After that connect the harness plug and your all done.
If you want to check to make sure you have your polarity correct, take a small 12 volt drill battery AND take speaker wire and attach the positive side of the wire to the + side and negative wire to the - side of the Pyle. Then touch the other end of the wire to the drill battery. If the polarity is correct the sub will pulse outward. If if is wrong the speaker will pule inward on itself. You want the sub pulsing outward because that is the way the base reverberates. Do this same test for each side of the Pyle to make sure your polarities are correct. You really don't have to do this test it is something that technicians do to test polarity.
To answer your further question, it does not matter what side of the Pyle you connect the red/black and white/green connections. Keep in mind that those four sets of spade wires are to connect the TWO separate voice coils per sup given that the piles are dual coil.
I hope this helps. Others who are more informed will join in an build on the info I supplied. I am just giving you my input having struggled with this very same matter for the last two days and finally got everything up and running
Thank you for the post. I guess if I would have just pulled the speakers, it would have made more sense to me but the wiring diagram confused me. Thanks again.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 14
From: MOFN, AL, 70 miles from George
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Heh Max:
I finished my install and realized that perhaps I should get a little more thump in the car besides the Pyle subs and my JL audio 600/4 amp. Did you go with a dedicated amp and subwoofer. If so what added subwoofer (besides the rear subs in the stock locations) did you go with? Is there a sub and amp you would recommend to give me a little more thump? I would probably run the two rear subs (Pyles) simply as rear speakers to give me a surround sound effect and then use a 10" sub in the back compartment with a dedicated amp. But I do not know which way to go with the sub and amp. Any suggestions from anyone that would provide me a better thump for my car?
I finished my install and realized that perhaps I should get a little more thump in the car besides the Pyle subs and my JL audio 600/4 amp. Did you go with a dedicated amp and subwoofer. If so what added subwoofer (besides the rear subs in the stock locations) did you go with? Is there a sub and amp you would recommend to give me a little more thump? I would probably run the two rear subs (Pyles) simply as rear speakers to give me a surround sound effect and then use a 10" sub in the back compartment with a dedicated amp. But I do not know which way to go with the sub and amp. Any suggestions from anyone that would provide me a better thump for my car?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,780
Likes: 184
From: Lineville, AL
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
Hey Max, get you a pair of those B-8PTD's and put one under each seat ( think 3 1/8" will fit ? ) along with the rear panel subs you already have !
You will no longer have to take your laxatives daily
You will no longer have to take your laxatives daily
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 14
From: MOFN, AL, 70 miles from George
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
IDK-with the amp/sub setup I have now, I'm pretty happy.
AFTER I put on some nice thumpy music and adjusted the amp's sensitivity on-the-fly.
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 239
Likes: 1
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I have placed a 10" kicker subwoofer in my trunk compartment along with a dedicated 2 channel kicker amp at 6-- watts per channel. That setup completely satisfies my bass requirements to the point that I no longer need the two rear speakers to serve as subs. I currently have the 2 Pyles as my subs (rear speakers). I am looking to replace the 2 rear speakers with regular speakers. I want 4 ohm speakers for the two rears so I can have the full surround effect. Like I said I do not need any bass coming from the two rear leakers. I want the two rears to provide miss and treble.
If anyone has done this transformation can you suggest to speakers that will fit the back oem slots and will give me the effect that I am looking for. Should I be looking for 6.5s or what. I am completely lost here.
If anyone has done this transformation can you suggest to speakers that will fit the back oem slots and will give me the effect that I am looking for. Should I be looking for 6.5s or what. I am completely lost here.
Forum Regular
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 488
Likes: 5
From: Austin, TX
Re: what is the best replacement for rear subs??
I read the stock amp puts out two channels to each sub. How much power (RMS) is it putting out? These Audiopipe's have rubber surrounds and might match up better power wise.
What do you think?