New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Old thread, I know... Just thought for anyone who might be curious, the menu for random play can be found by holding down the volume center button.
Another good-to-know is that if you ever need to factory reset the unit, use the following three-finger salute: volume center button, menu, power. All three held down until the unit reboots.
Another good-to-know is that if you ever need to factory reset the unit, use the following three-finger salute: volume center button, menu, power. All three held down until the unit reboots.
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Texas
Age: 69
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Metra Part # 70-1786 | Land Rover wire harness | Metra Online
I have one installed currently (with a Kenwood KIV-701) and it works perfectly. I am going to be moving to aftermarket amplifiers soon (as well as replacing the door and rear speakers), so that I can have separate gain/crossover/frequency shaping control of the system components for overall optimization.
KJK
Last edited by KJKnowles; 12-14-2013 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Added image
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
This Metra harness (about $12-$15 depending on where you buy it) is a direct plug in for sending preamp level out to the stock amplifier. It does not split the fronts and rears, though. That still happens at the amplifier unless you rewire as per the instructions above. The rear harness connectors do nothing in our particular vehicles.
I have one installed currently (with a Kenwood KIV-701) and it works perfectly. I am going to be moving to aftermarket amplifiers soon (as well as replacing the door and rear speakers), so that I can have separate gain/crossover/frequency shaping control of the system components for overall optimization.
KJK
I have one installed currently (with a Kenwood KIV-701) and it works perfectly. I am going to be moving to aftermarket amplifiers soon (as well as replacing the door and rear speakers), so that I can have separate gain/crossover/frequency shaping control of the system components for overall optimization.
KJK
IMG_20140510_092521_951_zps68734e7a.jpg
Last edited by patrickjherbert; 05-11-2014 at 02:14 PM.
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Sorry to revive an older thread, but I was hoping to use the preamp outs on my Blaupunkt MP68. When I look in the installation manual, however, it only lists:
Line Out LR
Line Out RR
Line Out / Ground
Line Out LF
Line Out RF
12V Amp
My concern is that it doesn't list the polarity (+/-) for each line out. If it helps for reference, the manual is here: http://www.driscocity.com/MP68.pdf. The wiring images are the last four or so pages.
Has anyone use preamp outputs on a Blaupunkt receiver?
Line Out LR
Line Out RR
Line Out / Ground
Line Out LF
Line Out RF
12V Amp
My concern is that it doesn't list the polarity (+/-) for each line out. If it helps for reference, the manual is here: http://www.driscocity.com/MP68.pdf. The wiring images are the last four or so pages.
Has anyone use preamp outputs on a Blaupunkt receiver?
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
The picture with the Preamp./Sub./Center - out cable on page 431 shows RCA type connectors. The center conductor is usually positive and the outer connection is usually ground.
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Okay, so all line out wires would share a common ground, but then would I just connect the appropriate line out to the positive wire from the amp, leaving the negative wires disconnected?
Line level outs should be ref to ground unlike speaker out. Speaker out can be different per amp. So in your chart the LR out is the + and the line out ground is of course the ground. RR out is the plus.
The picture with the Preamp./Sub./Center - out cable on page 431 shows RCA type connectors. The center conductor is usually positive and the outer connection is usually ground.
The picture with the Preamp./Sub./Center - out cable on page 431 shows RCA type connectors. The center conductor is usually positive and the outer connection is usually ground.
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Dx remotely over the web can be difficult, I can only comment on what you say is there. Do you have the cable pictured on page 431? The owners manual to your radio shows a cable with RCA type connectors from the head unit and most amps have RCA connectors on the input. Hook line out on the radio to line in on the amp with RCA to RCA cables. They have both positive and ground in the cable.
Compare the amp wiring digram to the radio digram, they should be the same for line in.
If you don't have the RCA connector cable shown and you have to use wires and screw terminals looking at both wiring diagrams should resolve any confusion.
An ohm meter will prove the - terminals are all tied together.
The patch cables listed in this picture are what you are doing?
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...diagram_lg.gif
Last edited by KDW4Him; 07-17-2015 at 09:46 AM.
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Sorry to revive an older thread, but I was hoping to use the preamp outs on my Blaupunkt MP68. When I look in the installation manual, however, it only lists:
Line Out LR
Line Out RR
Line Out / Ground
Line Out LF
Line Out RF
12V Amp
My concern is that it doesn't list the polarity (+/-) for each line out. If it helps for reference, the manual is here: http://www.driscocity.com/MP68.pdf. The wiring images are the last four or so pages.
Has anyone use preamp outputs on a Blaupunkt receiver?
Line Out LR
Line Out RR
Line Out / Ground
Line Out LF
Line Out RF
12V Amp
My concern is that it doesn't list the polarity (+/-) for each line out. If it helps for reference, the manual is here: http://www.driscocity.com/MP68.pdf. The wiring images are the last four or so pages.
Has anyone use preamp outputs on a Blaupunkt receiver?
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 60
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
I just ordered my radio (Kenwood KMR-D562BT ), and I ordered both metra wiring kits(Metra 70-1784, and Metra 70-1786), the one with all wires, and the one with RCA, I figure, I can swap pins and use them both, if not, $10 down the tube. I would like to make the rears on a separate circuit, like this thread is about, but honestly I keep getting lost. I will re-read the documents and diagrams tomorrow, and check back.
Both kits, removal tools, antenna adapter, and radio came under $150, all via Amazon. Of course, everything will be here Tuesday EXCEPT the tool to take out my factory radio.
Both kits, removal tools, antenna adapter, and radio came under $150, all via Amazon. Of course, everything will be here Tuesday EXCEPT the tool to take out my factory radio.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 60
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Something isn't right with this image. I think that was part of my confusion.
amplifierconnectorpindiagram.jpg
Right Door has two (-) connections 1 & 8
Left Door has two (+) connections 2 & 3
Left Rear has two (+) connections 6 & 9
Right Rear has two (-) connections 7 & 10
Either the polarities are wrong, or the locations are wrong
or my understanding is wrong...
amplifierconnectorpindiagram.jpg
Right Door has two (-) connections 1 & 8
Left Door has two (+) connections 2 & 3
Left Rear has two (+) connections 6 & 9
Right Rear has two (-) connections 7 & 10
Either the polarities are wrong, or the locations are wrong
or my understanding is wrong...
Last edited by pioneer4x4; 07-20-2015 at 06:03 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 60
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Something isn't right with this image. I think that was part of my confusion.
Right Door has two (-) connections 1 & 8
Left Door has two (+) connections 2 & 3
Left Rear has two (+) connections 6 & 9
Right Rear has two (-) connections 7 & 10
Either the polarities are wrong, or the locations are wrong
or my understanding is wrong...
Right Door has two (-) connections 1 & 8
Left Door has two (+) connections 2 & 3
Left Rear has two (+) connections 6 & 9
Right Rear has two (-) connections 7 & 10
Either the polarities are wrong, or the locations are wrong
or my understanding is wrong...
I chose to cut the rear input pin wires # 3, 8, 8, 9,& 10 at the amp and ran new wire up to the new head unit converting them to a set of RCA's to plug into the pre-amp outputs for sub. Then from the factory wire loom plug behind the head unit I converted the front door speaker wires to RCAs as well to run into the new head unit's front pre-amp outputs.
speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
duplicated diagram from previous posts showing which pin from the amplifier goes to which high level speaker input from head unit.
speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
duplicated diagram from previous posts showing which pin from the amplifier goes to which high level speaker input from head unit.
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 60
Posts: 945
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
OK, I think I figured out something else that is being mis-reported. Again, I might not be fully aware of the history of what has been discovered, but I have read several posts about "Dual Voice Coil " subwoofers used in our cars. This confuses me since there are 2 of them. The purpose of dual voice coil subs is so you will hear a sound from either channel via the one subwoofer you have. Since we have 2, it didn't make sense to me that they would be dual voice coil. I assume that everyone reports this because of the 4 wires going to each.
Looking at the PDF of the service manual on page
ZH 8W-47 AUDIO SYSTEM 8W - 47 - 5
It shows the wiring for the subwoofers, with 4 wires going to each. A + and - for the audio, and +12v and Ground. It appears to me that these are "Amplified Subwoofers" like many other Chryslers of the time.
Everybody, PLEASE correct me if I am reading this wrong, but the wiring diagrams in the PDF of the service manual for 2004 Crossfire seem pretty clear to me.
EDIT: After looking at pictures of these, mainly from the post about repairing them
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post826675
, they sure look like dual voice coil to me! And I will check the amp wiring, to see if the left and right have the same left and right sounds going to them. I got my new radio in, but did not do anything yet with amp and splitting out rear channel yet. When I do that, I will try to test all pinouts because the labels in the factory service manual make no sense to me.
Looking at the PDF of the service manual on page
ZH 8W-47 AUDIO SYSTEM 8W - 47 - 5
It shows the wiring for the subwoofers, with 4 wires going to each. A + and - for the audio, and +12v and Ground. It appears to me that these are "Amplified Subwoofers" like many other Chryslers of the time.
Everybody, PLEASE correct me if I am reading this wrong, but the wiring diagrams in the PDF of the service manual for 2004 Crossfire seem pretty clear to me.
EDIT: After looking at pictures of these, mainly from the post about repairing them
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post826675
, they sure look like dual voice coil to me! And I will check the amp wiring, to see if the left and right have the same left and right sounds going to them. I got my new radio in, but did not do anything yet with amp and splitting out rear channel yet. When I do that, I will try to test all pinouts because the labels in the factory service manual make no sense to me.
Last edited by pioneer4x4; 07-22-2015 at 11:24 AM. Reason: Update/Correction
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
Dear JesseJamesSRT6:
I am attempted to use your thread to install my new stereo in my 2004 ZH, however,
I am a bit confused. Please help me understand this. In your thread you indicate this:
"speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);"
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
Then in Photos 8 & 11 you indicate this :
The functions listed for the Circuits at the Amp plug in Picture 8 & 11 disagree with your list of Amp pins - first indicated above. The Amp pin list first listed above seems to make sense to me, whereas the functions listed in pictures 8 & 11 indicate different speakers at different pins and also indicate duplicate Right Front door Speaker (-)'s, Left Front door Speaker (+)'s, Left Rear Speaker (+)'s, & Right Rear Speaker (-)'s, which, with all respects, does not make sense to me. Is this Matrix shown in Pictures 8 & 11 incorrect?
Am I not comprehending this matrix with the understanding you intended.
I am attempting to wire my ZH, now, as you have, but, I want to make sure I am understanding which wire is what before I start cutting wires at the amp harness.
Please clarify this confusion for me.
Regards,
Fildo Dog
I am attempted to use your thread to install my new stereo in my 2004 ZH, however,
I am a bit confused. Please help me understand this. In your thread you indicate this:
"speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);"
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
Then in Photos 8 & 11 you indicate this :
The functions listed for the Circuits at the Amp plug in Picture 8 & 11 disagree with your list of Amp pins - first indicated above. The Amp pin list first listed above seems to make sense to me, whereas the functions listed in pictures 8 & 11 indicate different speakers at different pins and also indicate duplicate Right Front door Speaker (-)'s, Left Front door Speaker (+)'s, Left Rear Speaker (+)'s, & Right Rear Speaker (-)'s, which, with all respects, does not make sense to me. Is this Matrix shown in Pictures 8 & 11 incorrect?
Am I not comprehending this matrix with the understanding you intended.
I am attempting to wire my ZH, now, as you have, but, I want to make sure I am understanding which wire is what before I start cutting wires at the amp harness.
Please clarify this confusion for me.
Regards,
Fildo Dog
Re: New radio head unit wired to factory stock amp amplifier
information and tips taken from all users contributing to "Stock Amp is 4 channels!" thanks abssorb, Spark, ppro, and DanielNTX
I did this mod and love it! This is definitely the way to go in order to get cleaner sound and the ability to modify frequency, and gain from the front speakers/tweeters vs. the rear subwoofers.
I have an SRT6 with infinity without navigation.
I replaced my factory head unit with a Kenwood KIVBT901 that has bluetooth with microphone and pandora, with back up camera option. It has i-pod, 1/8 AUX jack, USB, 3 sets or RCA's front, rear, and sub, with a built in equalizer that lets me adjust the front and sub frequency and gain separately.
I read through the various threads of this mod and they were very helpful. However, there is one document/picture that is absolutely critical (what pin # slots correlate to which location on the actual plug). The diagrams in the other threads show which pin is which wire from the head unit and from that you can decide if you want to use the factory wire loom for the front or the rear since they are wired together as a single wire at the head unit. I chose to cut the rear input pin wires # 3, 8, 8, 9,& 10 at the amp and ran new wire up to the new head unit converting them to a set of RCA's to plug into the pre-amp outputs for sub. Then from the factory wire loom plug behind the head unit I converted the front door speaker wires to RCAs as well to run into the new head unit's front pre-amp outputs. This lets you adjust the front door speakers independent of the sub woofers (rear)
Things to point out;
1. the VW wiring harness adapter carried by BestBuy has to have the yellow and red wire swapped (continuous power vs. acc key ignition power).
2. the blue amp power up/turn on wire needs to be installed.
3. RCA's center pin and corresponding internal center wire is the positive and the external wire and ring are negative.
4. The amp turn on wire in blue with a dark green stripe and is located in power amplifier A plug pin position 5 (see my picture of where to install it in the VW/Best Buy head unit wire harness adapter plug).
speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
Factory wire loom with amplifier power on wire (in center)
VW/Best Buy aftermarket head unit wiring harness adapter for stock wire loom(note yellow wire is on the bottom in the center).
Yellow wire is on the bottom in the center and red is on the side (need to be swapped)
Swapped red and yellow wires, red now on the bottom in the center (to correspond with the crossifre configuration tested with power tester), and
Installed amplifier power on wire (this is the only position that the new adapter is missing a wire compared to the factory wire loom) Extra wires can be removed from the new adapter that are for the rear left and right positive and negative channels (4 wires total), didn't install the power antenna wire.
Cut and split an RCA cable, inside wire +, outside wire is -. Red plug is for right channel and white/black plug is for left channel
Sample harness layout with only 1 set of RCA's
amplifier plug
amplifier plug diagram with corresponding pin locations for orrientation (this was the critical one for me that was missing from previous posts)
duplicated diagram from previous posts showing which pin from the amplifier goes to which high level speaker input from head unit.
This is a duplicated diagram from previous posts showing the entire system wired up as a schematic only missing the amplifier power on wire (pin 5 on the amp).
I did this mod and love it! This is definitely the way to go in order to get cleaner sound and the ability to modify frequency, and gain from the front speakers/tweeters vs. the rear subwoofers.
I have an SRT6 with infinity without navigation.
I replaced my factory head unit with a Kenwood KIVBT901 that has bluetooth with microphone and pandora, with back up camera option. It has i-pod, 1/8 AUX jack, USB, 3 sets or RCA's front, rear, and sub, with a built in equalizer that lets me adjust the front and sub frequency and gain separately.
I read through the various threads of this mod and they were very helpful. However, there is one document/picture that is absolutely critical (what pin # slots correlate to which location on the actual plug). The diagrams in the other threads show which pin is which wire from the head unit and from that you can decide if you want to use the factory wire loom for the front or the rear since they are wired together as a single wire at the head unit. I chose to cut the rear input pin wires # 3, 8, 8, 9,& 10 at the amp and ran new wire up to the new head unit converting them to a set of RCA's to plug into the pre-amp outputs for sub. Then from the factory wire loom plug behind the head unit I converted the front door speaker wires to RCAs as well to run into the new head unit's front pre-amp outputs. This lets you adjust the front door speakers independent of the sub woofers (rear)
Things to point out;
1. the VW wiring harness adapter carried by BestBuy has to have the yellow and red wire swapped (continuous power vs. acc key ignition power).
2. the blue amp power up/turn on wire needs to be installed.
3. RCA's center pin and corresponding internal center wire is the positive and the external wire and ring are negative.
4. The amp turn on wire in blue with a dark green stripe and is located in power amplifier A plug pin position 5 (see my picture of where to install it in the VW/Best Buy head unit wire harness adapter plug).
speaker polarity and location according to pin # (thanks ppro);
AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)
Factory wire loom with amplifier power on wire (in center)
VW/Best Buy aftermarket head unit wiring harness adapter for stock wire loom(note yellow wire is on the bottom in the center).
Yellow wire is on the bottom in the center and red is on the side (need to be swapped)
Swapped red and yellow wires, red now on the bottom in the center (to correspond with the crossifre configuration tested with power tester), and
Installed amplifier power on wire (this is the only position that the new adapter is missing a wire compared to the factory wire loom) Extra wires can be removed from the new adapter that are for the rear left and right positive and negative channels (4 wires total), didn't install the power antenna wire.
Cut and split an RCA cable, inside wire +, outside wire is -. Red plug is for right channel and white/black plug is for left channel
Sample harness layout with only 1 set of RCA's
amplifier plug
amplifier plug diagram with corresponding pin locations for orrientation (this was the critical one for me that was missing from previous posts)
duplicated diagram from previous posts showing which pin from the amplifier goes to which high level speaker input from head unit.
This is a duplicated diagram from previous posts showing the entire system wired up as a schematic only missing the amplifier power on wire (pin 5 on the amp).
I had one problem however..
When installing the aftermarket head unit, I needed to intall the security sleeve to lock the unit in place. The problem occured when I slid the radio in place, there was NO room for the security tabs to be released when inserting the release tools.
After fighting with the unit for an hour, I finally got it out...
Using my Dremel, I notched the factory cavity to allow the security tabs to be properly released when using the tools and I also cut 3 notches on the top and the bottom of the cavity near the front, to allow the bendable tabs to be inserted locking the sleeve in place.
No one mentions that the factory sleeve is molded plastic designed only for the factory head unit and that ONLY the factory unit can be locked in place without doing this mod...
I hope this helps..
The following users liked this post:
dash214 (03-29-2021)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Indelibility
Parts/Accessories for sale - Archive
11
08-27-2015 10:21 PM
MAXIMUM
Cars For Sale - Archive
7
08-04-2015 11:04 PM
pioneer4x4
Audio, Video and Electronics
0
07-27-2015 02:04 PM
axnguyen
Cars For Sale - Archive
1
07-21-2015 11:41 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)