Ok, while in the process of getting a replacement sub for the rear... sigh which is really not going great... I realllyyy want to disable that damn sub... (It is the driver side rear sub)...

So what i tried was going behind the headunit (i have an aftermarket one which is easy to get behind).. And cut the green wire which in the wiring diagrams shows as being the Left Rear Speaker (aka the sub)... Ok So i cut the wire.. anddd... NOTHING! nothing happened at all! to any of the speakers!!! I double checked all of them and it was as if nothing had been cut...

So plzzzzz, someone help me disable this sub... I would REALLY rather not struggle with the clips, the hex screws, the carpet, etc etc to get to the sub... So if you can help me get this thing disabled w/o doing that... I will appreciate it SOOO MUCH.

Kolme

 

I don't think you will be able to disable it from behind the head unit because the factory output of the head unit is "Left" and "Right" and doesn't discern between "Front" and "Back" or "Door" and "Sub". In order to get to where the door speaker and sub channels are separated, you might have to do that at the output of the factory amp, which is located under the passenger footrest area. Not real sure how it's separated, will have to look at the wire diagram. As far as cutting the "green" wire, was that a green wire in the factory harness or from the head unit or in the adapter harness?

Will do some more digging.

RL

 

Welllll, It was a green wire attached to the unit so I suppose it was a part of the adapter harness.. I actually didnt do the install, a fellow who used to come on these threads (he sold the best looking SRT6 besides maybe Chads like a yr ago) did it. I can easily splice and rewire them (I always leave slack because I know I'll do something dumb).

I did look for a wiring diagram for the amp but didnt find it, although im 100% postive that ive seen it before... lemme know if you have any suggestions RL!

Thanks

 

OK - Well, here's the diagram for the audio system showing the factory radio, factory amp, speakers and so on. There are only for outputs from the radio that go to the amp which would be your left and right speaker wires (2 wires per side). So, that tells me there is no way to disable the subs from the back side of the head unit UNLESS the dude that installed the head unit ran separate wiring to control the subs like what is mentioned n this thread:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...amplifier.html

If that mod has not been done, then you will need to go to the amp (under the passenger footrest) and disconnect the connector for the left rear sub (pins 6, 16, 12 & 4).

Hope this helps!!

RL

EDIT: And I would re-connect that green wire. Not sure what it's connected to, but I would bet it could be important.

 

RL! thanks for the help you deff did your homework.. OK! so i managed to get to the "amp"... lol 500 dollars worth according to the dealer.. Now I see ALOT of stuff going on in here... Is the thing im removing simply 1 connector (I think its white?) and this 1 connector basically has all the pins i need to worry about?

Damnit I should have taken a picture... Ill comment back if I remove it and my car explodes.. BRB.

 

Soooo I guess im lost... lol.. Ok im realizing there are only 2 blocks of wires that run into the amp... But I cant really tell whats what... I see some middle number here and there.. but totally lost... also the diagrams confuse me even more... I cant tell what wires to cut or if im even looking at the right wires.. AGGGHHH!!

 

OK Kolme - I am going to preface this by letting you know that I have NOT dug into the amp on my car and all this information I am going to give is deduced from the diagram and information contained in the referenced thread in my last post. That being said - here goes:

You say that you see two blocks of wires, which I am going to assume that those blocks are two different connectors. The amp diagram refers to an "A" connector and a "B" connector, so that's good - you see two and the diagram calls out two. In the thread I attached, one post shows a picture of one of the connectors from the amp and it has 12 contacts in it - that would be the "A" connector. On the diagram, the "B" connector has at least 18 contact locations (not necessarily 18 wires, but "room" for at least 18 wires, maybe more) so the "B" connector should be the bigger of the two connectors. You need to find the Pink, Blue, Brown/Red and one other that is identified as "DG". I don't know what color "DG" is, but, according to the diagram it is contact #16 so it should be between a Black/Yellow wire (#15) & a Brown/Yellow wire (#17). Those four wires are the wires that drive your driver side (left) sub. Probably cutting one of them would kill the sub, but I would cut it so you have enough to splice it back if you ever needed/wanted to (or if you cut the wrong one). Maybe a better idea would be to remove that contact from the connector and isolate it.

Now, if I may, why are you wanting to kill the sub - is it blown/rattling?

RL

 

Hey, I just got an email saying you replied as I was uploading these pics, lol going to go ahead and post them as they maybe become relevantly important as i am TERRIBLE with electronics lol.

 

Ahhhh I think I see them now, they are all on block B. Sweet Ill give that a try and report back.. Lol, somehow me looking at the pics on the comp + you saying things that made sense = me accidentally realizing what I was looking at lol... Haha thanks for the help, BRB (im going to attempt to pull the connectors... eek..

Btw, as far the A block is concerned, Should I remove the ones corresponding to the LEft sub as well? I think the A block is just for signaling to the amp what to do, right? brb

 

OUTSTANDING - we're making progress!!

Leave connector "A" alone - those are mainly the inputs to the amp and affect your door speakers as well as the subs. Unless you are doing the modification that the earlier referenced thread accomplishes, there should be no reason to mess with connector "A".

Let me know how it works for you.

RL

 

Ok... sooo I went ahead and pulled the connectors and... IT WORKED! woot woot!!! Finally! that terribly blown sub can rest in peace!!! well until I have time to install a new one/when it arrives... It is WORLDS better in there now.. lol thanks TONS RL... (Watch my right one blow now >.> lol)

 

Careful, amps don't like loads removed when they are working. It winds up blowing chips and transistors! Speaker coils are the load. Also, the speakers are DUAL coil so there would be 4 wires to each maybe?

 

Haha!! That would be Murphy's Law, right? Glad it worked for you and happy to help!

RL

 

GG - so should Kolme remove contacts #3 & #8 from connector "A" and leave the contacts in the "B" connector to show a load? In another thread, those were identified as the left sub inputs at the amp. Would removing the inputs be safer on the amp than disconnecting the outputs? Kind of out of my wheel house on that stuff.

Thanks!!

RL

 

Since the amp is looking for two impedances, I would think the imbalance would cause damage. Remember also the second coil will drive the speaker also and rattle! If the amp is self protecting (which I think not but what do I know about how XF amps are designd/built), it may protect the components for a short period but why risk blowing the amp unless the goal is buying a new one anyway. If one side shuts down due to damage, will it take something else with it. See the delemma? Others with more current experience please jump in here, if you can confirm/assure this. I equate it to running your home stereo with one speaker disconnected, how long will the amp last?

 

err soo are you saying that removing the sub through either or both of block A and B is bad??? Or do i just need to also remove from block A so that no input is even reaching the amp and therefore those channels dont stress?

 

Ok logicallyyy, I decided to go ahead and remove the A block Left rear sub wires to the amp, so that the amp is not looking to power something that is not connected. Since our amps are not a certain type of class D mono blocks (which I hear some require all channels to be full) there should be no problem in the whole channel basically being blank.. If you guys get any updates as to whether this is ok, please let me know.. Everything seems fine (obviously the left sub isnt doing anything, rattles included) so Im fairly positive que todo esta bien!.

Sigh, next though is my left Tweeter which stopped working suddenly a few weeks ago... I got lazy and didnt mess with it.. but its a JL tweeter and is making NO sounds so I am assuming its either an innerdoor issue or its a connection behind the HU...

WHEN DOES IT END?!?! lol.

I have to head to the Lab for an hour or so, but if anyone replies to the thread I will see it VIA Iphone email...

Thanks RL and GG!!!!!!

Edit: the wiring diagram was incorrect for block A wires six and nine which would indicate left speaker rear did not have that effect. They muffled the right speaker and tweeter

 

I goofed! I didn't know you pulled the INPUTS... I was thinking you were pulling the outputs. Pulling the inputs might not be bad. Any electronic techs here (pizzaguy)?????

 

I thought I replied to this. Guess I didn't.

I can't see how pulling the output off the amp would hurt it - if it is what I THINK it is, class B Push-Pull, then taking a load away is not going to hurt it. Of course, loading it to heavily (too low of an impedance) could be harmful, but not "under-loading" it.

And as for Class D, I'm not sure I believe removing a load would be harmful in the single-ended configuration. As to the 'full bridge' design, I'm still not sure it would be harmful, but I am less certain.

On a related note - does anyone know what is going on with FOUR wires to each rear speaker? The designations on the diagram don't add up for me.


OOOPS... as for pulling the inputs, I am sure this is not harmful. HOWEVER, when you do that, you run the head with no load - and isn't that supposed to be bad, by your own thinking?? (Seriously, just insulate the disconnected wires and you'll be fine).

 

That 4 wire thing, I think I do know. I have read the subs are dual coil speakers.