Does anyone know what pins 2 & 5 actually connect to from the lock relay ?
I cannot find any reference in the schematics .....

 

I have a mitchell diagram of the power locks system and that relay does not exist...:s. Everyhing else matches up though..

 

Well, the relay DOES exist, I have my cheap-mod piezo buzzer connected across it's coil.

 

you are probably reffering to this diagram :

 

pretty much the same but different symbols. but either way i found out where those pins go.

those 2 wires power the left and right signals when the vehicle is locked. it shows it on the "EXTERIOR LIGHTS DIAGRAM" instead of the power door locks circuit. Pin 5 which is Blk/DrkGreen is the right side, Pin 2 is Blk/white is left.

so basically the the sentry key remote module grounds that relay when you lock illuminating the turn signals. Its sole purpose

 

grammar is weak in that last one

 

Sorry, I have 2 PDF's, one for the SRT6 and one not.
Both show that the rear tail lamps are wired directly to the locking pump.
I am assuming that you are saying that the relay's NO lead is somehow wired to the front lamp units ?
If, so, I can't find that in either of the PDF service manuals.
What is the NC lead wired to ?

Here is my dilemma :
1. When I press the fob's lock button, both front and rear lights flash 3 times, and the little Radio Shack buzzer that is wired across the relay's coil sounds 3 times.
2. When I press the fob's unlock button, I get one light flash and one buzzer tone.
3. Nothing locks or unlocks.
4. The alarm does not get set.
5. If I reach in the car with the doors shut and the top down, turn on the ignition and press the lock button on the console, the doors and trunk lock as intended, the fuel door does not lock, however, the alarm is not set.
6. At 9 MPH, the doors both lock, and unlock when I open the driver's door when I stop.

My conclusion is that the locking pump is OK, but cannot figure out why the SKREEM tells the relay to energize, and tells the locking pump to lock ( I am assuming this because the rear lights flash ), but no air is supplied to the locks.

 

strange... well according to the diagram you posted in your first post.. my car is wired just like that.. except the 2 pins from the relay ( 2 + 5 ) actually go somewhere.. and arent just empty like that. i dont have lights being powered right off of my Central lockign pump. Maybe its different from roadster to coupe... where is that first diagram from?

Your dilemma is very confusing because as you said.. all the modules are comunicating...but no vacuum is being sent. The only thing even remotely close is the Sentry Key Antennae ring thinking the key is too close to the cylinder... but even if that were true, the lights would not flash. And what makes it even more confusing is that it still locks when you drive and open the door........

 

The fuel door does not lock with the key in the ignition, the fuel door remains open when you are driving and all other doors are locked. That is clearly stated in the Owners Manual and in the Service Manual as well I guess.

 

Thanks Dave, I was aware of that. I was just pointing out that the manual lock button is working as intended.
Beginning to look more and more like a skreem issue ......
I'm going to get out in the garage tomorrow with the Fluke meter and do all the wiring tests recommended in the service manual.

 

MYSTERY SOLVED !!!!!

I decided to follow the KISS principle and start with something that was not working, but was simple : The dome & trunk light were not working.
Grabbed the schematic, saw fuse 9 in the under hood accessory block was common.
Pull that and took a look, looked OK, but I decided to meter it anyway. SURPRISE !
Even thought it looked OK, it was open.
Replace F9 and now the dome light works, the trunk light works
AND THE DOOR LOCKS WORK FROM THE REMOTE, ALONG WITH THE ALARM SETTING !!!

Go figure.

( Thanks everyone for their suggestions )

 

Hallelujah!

One less thing to worry about.

But why did it fail? Huh? Buddy?

 

Maybe it's covered somehow by the other things that the fuse controls.
Fuse #9
10 Amp Red
Roof Light,
Horn,
Anti-Theft Alarm,
Liftgate Light
and Tire Pressure Control

 

Probably so, let's just file it under :

When the remote lock button makes the lights flash but the doors don't lock, check fuse 9 first.

 

Probably would have cost thousands to get fixed at the dealer. You would have all sorts of new parts on it.
Total cost for you , a few grey hairs and a 25 cent fuse.

 

I was thinking the same thing.
1. They would have replaced the locking pump module.
2. That didn't fix it, so next the BCM.
3. Lastly, the SKREEM since it's hardest to get to.
4. Then they'd get the meter out and charge me $85 an hour for 2 days.

BTW: I ordered 12 of those RCM relays today, I will replace all of mine, and have some left over for Max ( maxcichon ).

Reminds me : any word lately from tighed1 ?