You put that very well. We all thank you!

 

All I could find, at this time, locally, were 220uF 50VDC. Will that be enough to get the bump out of the subs??
$1.99 ea at Fry's Electronic.

 

Absolutely. They'll work just fine.

 

Thanks, will perform outpatient surgery tonight.

 

Thats what I have in mine and it sounds great.

 

Does this mod have any effect (i.e., filter) on digital noise being passed through the stereo?

 

Surgery went smooth last night. Thanks for directions.
I soldered and used shrink tubing vs wire nuts and tape.
Extra wire was great idea.
Sound is much better. Just having issue getting used to
the bass actually being produced by the subs.. Still playing
with bass and treble settings. I'v seen others publish.
I have bass at about +4 and treble 0 to +1. I am hear parts
of songs that I didn't hear before on this stereo. Like the beginning
of Dark Side of the Moon. Thanks again for great idea and easy
mod..

BTW-stopped by Radio Shack and same capacitors were 2X price.

 

If you were going to buy Bass Blockers from Crutchfield- I like the slip on ease of them, no cutting.

Which value would you recommend if you want the bass directed towards the sub woofers?

I personally like loud rock music when I am in the mood.... and currently run my bass setting between 7 and 9
treble at again between 7 and 9

Thanks
Don

 

Don,

I went through the gamut (read my earlier posts) of different values and found that 270 uF had the best balance of bass to the subs vs. full fidelity from the doors.

I think most of the folks I installed them for would agree?

 

Max,

Thanks for all of your research you have done on the caps....

I guess I didn't ask the question properly- Crutchfield rates their bass blockers at what freqency they block at.

The ones I am thinking about block at 150 MHZ...

here is a link.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...B150A2&tp=3216

Thanks again for all of your help, I can't wait to do something to get the bass back to the sub woofers!

Don

 

Don,
When I did this, I was using an audio test CD and it sounded like the doors were quiet under ~ 180 hZ with 270 uF caps.

Here is another quote from a knowing person (post #25):

"Increasing the capacitance value will lower the cutoff frequency for a highpass filter and allow more bass through.

The formula for calculating the cutoff frequency is...
Fco = 1/(6.283 x R x C)

So for 220 uF capacitor and a 4 ohm speaker (I am guessing about the speaker)...
Fco = 1/(6.283 x 4 x .00022) = 181 Hz.

For a 270uF capacitor, Fco = 147 Hz."

Here's a link...
http://www.qrp.pops.net/filter1.htm

It sounded like 180 hZ . This may say something about the resistance of the speaker/sub in the xFire. Maybe 3.6 ohms under load?

After looking at the crutchfield Bass Blockers, 150's would be your best choice!

Best to you!
Max

 

Max,

Again thanks for taking the time to research my question, from a laymans point of view using Crutchfields description and my knowledge of home stereo system Equalizer usage (many years) I thought the 150's would be the ticket.....

But I wanted someone who understands the science of the #'s, to verify my guess or point out my error.

That is why I like this forum so much there are very knowledgeable people from all walks of life, who don't mind sharing their expertise!

Thanks again.

When I install them I will report back to the group.

Don

 

Don,

I noticed when looking at them that they are designed to be installed at the rear of the speaker, in series with one of the spade posts. I think it is more difficult to access the system at this point. Doing the work behind the little access panel isn't too bad, but the plug at the acccess panel won't take a spade connector.

Just a thought...

Max

 

Max,

Thank you for pointing this out! The reason I wanted to go with the bass blockers was no cutting, but I ASSUMED the speakers in the doors had spade connectors......... wow thanks for letting me know...

I guess I need to get smart on the capicitor installation method.

Thanks
Don

 

Don,

I believe (don't KNOW) that the speakers have spade connectors. I just don't KNOW how hard it is to get at the back of the speakers.

I've seen some threads about how to get the speakers out without removing the whole door panel.

You'll have to look for it!

Happy to help!

See my edit on earlier post! (#213)

Max

 

Don, so that you don't feel too bad.... A public confession of my wiring ineptitude.

I was very happy to find this mod. Sounded simple enough, great directions and photos provided, and I routinely wire-up all my stereo installations in my house and friend's houses.

So I ordered the caps, opened the panel, found the wires, snipped, and... yikes, that's a tiny wire! That's really hard to strip. And there's very little slack / play in the harness, if you should make a mistake. (Never happen to me, of course )

And how the heck to connect that tiny wire to the cap? Bought a bunch o' wire nuts, and none of the worked. Didn't have soldering iron -- haven't used one in so many years I'd prolly burn a hole in the door

Then I noticed that I barely had enough speaker wire "play" left to reconnect. I joined up with a wire nut, held my breath, and turned on the stereo...it worked as before I started this little project.

So, I'm at square 1.

 

Guys,

when I installed all of these assemblies I used these:

http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.com/Bullets.htm

In a male/female/capacitor/male/female string. This gave it a bit more length, and if I didn't like it, I could remove the capacitor and plug the wires right back together.

I did the stripping and crimping about 1 1/2" from the connector plug and made it move a bit more by unwrapping a bit of the electrical tape from the bundle.

Just make sure to use a GOOD stripper and a GOOD crimper.

I think it was 18 gauge wire.

 

Hello Everyone,
I just installed the Alpine CDA-9886 CD/MP3/WMA/AAC Receiver so that I could connect my Satellite radio, iPod, and memory sticks without the use of a R.F. Modulator. The sound is spectacular, and the FM reciever is a great improvement over the stock unit. I had just installed the mod with a 270mfd np cap and also a 330mfd. I use a rotary switch with three positions, No Cap, 270, and 330. Even though the Alpine has no muddiness like the stock unit, the hi-pass filter lets me accentuate the base from the subs in the rear.
The CDA-9886 cost me $340 at Best Buys and the installation kit made installining it a snap. There is no dicernable distortion at full volume, but be aware, your ears will ring for several minutes. (bad boy).
The CD is behind the face plate and the quality is great. I spent hours listening to music from my iPod, with full control from the Alpine. If you want access to ipod, memory sticks, and direct aux in, I cannot give a better recommendation.
Jack
2004 NA, Six Speed
#7,309

 

I tried both the 220uf and the 320uf. I prefer the 320uf. I get a little more bass from the door speakers which I like but it is more personal preference and dependent on the type of music you listen to.

 

[quote=brianm929]I tried both the 220uf and the 320uf. I prefer the 320uf. I get a little more bass from the door speakers which I like but it is more personal preference and dependent on the type of music you listen to.[/quot

I'm with you and like the 320 uf better also.