First, I wasn't sure of where to put this, but I figured since this section gets the most attention I would post it here.

OK, as most of you know these cars are not particularly fast stop light to stop light cars. Many luxury sedans could really put a beat down on these cars. The aftermarket is so scarce and expensive that most of us are content with a 15 sec sport car. I on the other hand like to take the most difficult challenges.

I will be taking a fully streetable Crossfire with full interior and get it to run a 13 sec quarter mile pass. The catch is that it will all be done on a budget, documented, and passed onto fellow forum members.


I am currently working with a local company TVT Design for all the custom modifications. We have already fabbed up a CAI that routes the filter behind the lower grilles. We that and the dual exhaust on the car previously I ran my best time of 14.7@95.3. The CAI alone dropped my ET from 15.0 to 14.7 and raised my mph from 94.4 to 95.3. These aren't huge gains, but every little bit helps.

I will provide time slips for proof of everything.

I understand that 13.9 isn't exactly a fast car, but it's a second faster through the quarter which is huge.

The budget for this project is $5,000, which will include rims and tires. I will update shortly.

 

I would forget about wasting money in rims and tires, why not get another m112 motor and drop in a 100mm sleeve to bring up the displacement to 4.0 liters or use MBZ sleeve and piston kit and go out to 3.7 liters, then add high compression pistons like 12:1, reflash with bosch's software upgrade, and do an full race exhaust minus the catalytic converters. that should get you into 300 hp territory. After that I would bolt in the schricks race cams and then a CAI.

I think the cost of a used motor is around $500 - $800
cams for this car are about $900 each from schricks
you already have the exhaust
software flash $500
six sleeves from LA Sleeve about $800
machining pistons to match $1,500
misc parts and tools $1,000

hmmm, you might be able to pull it off, but it might come close to $6,000.

otherwise skip all the motor work and go for a boost kit, get the low compression pistons and run it to 12 psi? only problem is the ecu, and how to control it all?

 

The whole point is to do as little work as possible and get the most results. I want to use parts that anyone can purchase and install themselves.

I'm not interested in doing any engine work at all right now. There's a lot to be done outside that can really improve this car.

The prices you have are a tad on the low side. Go to any shop and ask them to work on this motor and it's almost always 10K minimum. Believe me I've priced out lots of things.

 

I priced it doing my own work. I figure $4,200 to bump up to 3.7 liter and that's with stock oem Mercedes parts and aftermarket accessories like cams and ecu tune.

Now I haven't been able to get dimensions on the block yet, but if its possible to bore it for 100mm sleeves and get new piston's milled it will cost me $300/piston and about $200 a sleeve.

Not sure what your intentions are? I hope your not paying someone else to do the job.

 

My intentions are to leave the engine in the car and hit 13's. If I have to pull an engine I better be running mid 12's or better.

 

i wish you luck stallion! myself and im sure many others on this forum would KILL to have that kind of ET without going to the extents of internal modification! keep us updated!!!

 

I have purchased an AEM Fuel/Ignition Unit to help with the tuning.

I'm not sure if it will be an easy bolt up but I have a shop in the area looking into it. Total price for AEM, install, and Tune will be about 1250.

If all goes well I expect much better results then any of the chips have promised.

Either way I will have a dyno with my mods very soon.

 

I removed the EGR valves and Air Pump. We fabbed up some aluminum plates to cover the holes.

Initially, the car hiccupped a little at idle, but after about 5 mins it all panned out. I noticed that the throttle was a little more responsive and as the car warmed up the power wasn't diminished. With this and the CAI you really notice the lack of top-end pull. The car reacts very similar to my TPI Vette. The long runners of this setup lend themselves to an extremely low redline. It seems to actually run out of steam before 5,700 rpms now. It pulls harder all the way there, and then kinda coasts.

I'll be looking into porting after the computer work is done.

 

I guess if you want to go a different route, your can bolt up some expensive lightweight forged wheels, this will give you a lot of hp gain, I would also downsize the rims to about 17" this will give less rotational energy loss.

Your correct it does run out of steam at 5,700, because it's max power is at 5,200 rpm.

When will you bolt in the cams?

Check out the straight line acceleration graphs here: http://www.phantomgrip.com/how_it_works.htm. For the price it's a damn cheap performance upgrade.

 

Can't find a shop around me to install the phantom grip, but if I do I will.

The cams I'll only install if this computer thing works. As far as the wheels I'm going with 16's all around. They are significantly lighter and much cheaper. The tire width will be the same as stock, but will drop about 18 lbs per rim/tire.

Again this is a budget minded project, so the less I spend the happier I am. I can't see putting a lot of money into something if it doesn't respond well.

 

Get your 60' times down... That will get you much closer to 14.0... Figure every 0.1s in 60' time, yields 0.2s at the 1/4 mile marker...

 

Yea, that's what I'm hoping the new rims and drag radials will do. These stockers are really killing performance.

With lighter rolling stock this should be a high 14 sec car stock.

 

Well I got the AEM unit in today. The wiring looks pretty straight forward. The only thing that worries me is that this is normally set up for boosted engines.

I'll probably run into a problem with the ignition, but hopefully i can get through it.

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

How do you intend to control the variable manifold?

I guess you could use vacuum diaphragms and a vacuum holding tank with restrictor valves inside the vac. lines that should work the flappers efficiently, heck you can even tune the rpm point at which you activate them. sounds like something I should be looking at myself.

I love brain storming!

 

This is not a stand alone unit. This is only to control fuel and ignition.

I'm looking for the most cost effective route here and this was $400 compared to $2,400 for a stand alone.

 

Ok so I've installed a new thermostat and modified the water neck to allow for a temp gauge.

The new T-stat should open around 160 degrees, which is much better then the factory 190.

I received the slicks for the back and should be taking it back to the track within the week.

After this I'm either going porting, tuning, or header fabrication...

 

Ran the car tonight with the AIR removed I landed my best time yet.

14.685@96.01

13.999 is looking easier and easier.

Next up slicks!!

 

Good idea using smaller/lighter wheels. You may want to consider a smaller diameter tire. The Crossfires rear tires from the factory are approximately 25.5" tall. If you switch to a 24" tall rear tire, your 3.27:1 axle ratio will be more like a 3.50:1.
I would think that should be worth 2 or 3 tenths.
Good Luck.