Hey guys tackled a big project which is very easy but time consuming deadning the trunk, doors, and back.

I have uploaded pictures into my album for you to see.

I can not tell for sure if i have noticed a difference in road noise as the day i got the car back i had a blew out from a pothole. Oledoc is helping me out and sending me some tires, i am looking to get a set of Mercedes replica rims in 18" with decent sidewall to take care of this issue.

I currently have a mismatch tire in the rear and it is extremely noisy on the passenger side where the spare is so i can get by until i get the continentals, i will put up a review and let you know. Also i still have alot of panels missing in my car as i am scheduled to finish the amp rack and rest of the setup wednesday and hope to have replacement tires by end of this week.

As far as audio goes i can tell a big difference in the midbass response from the door as we sealed the door of all the holes and created a enclosure within. I replaced the speakers with a pair of Focal 165k2p running in active setup and will soon have a 3 way setup along with a JL 12w7.

for deadning products i used www.secondskinaudio.com and www.raamaudio.com.

i used around 50 sqft to do the trunk, and about 20 sq to do the doors, i need another 30-45 sq to complete the rest of the car. keep in mind second skin sells damplifier pro which is very thick and only needs one layer I used that in the door.

I also replaced the stock carpet on the wheel wells with luxury liner pro by second skin which is a very thick carpet and helps cut down on road noise.

Lastly i used closed cell foam to reduce distortion and standing sound waves inside the doors and plan to apply to the trunk and back wall as well.

 

If you sealed the drain holes in the bottom of the doors you are going to get the water rising up inside those doors pretty quick.
Rainwater is diverted through the doors interiors and runs out the bottom drain holes.

 

I found that putting down the convertible top or opening a window drowns out all body noise. It's a cheap fix, but a lot of fun in the summer.

 

I just purchased a bulk package of dynamat extreme to use in the trunk area. Not sure how much different this is to what you have. Supposedly, this is the best stuff to use for deading sound. I have yet to install it, but I bought it because I recently did the exhaust and it is pretty loud. Sounds great, but on the highway im getting some drone around 70-75mph. So.....when I finish, I will take some pics and give you my opinion on the difference.

 

can you tell me more about the drain holes for the door,

i did not do the door i had the shop do it since they were installing speakers and i need that to get a 3 yr warranty

we plan to take the door skin off and i will take pics of the door,

if i am not mistaken the outer door skin and the area around the speaker and door was deadened.

i want to make sure we open up the drain holes since i do not want any leaks, were are they located at.

i need to put deadener on the door panel since it is the only thing buzzing by the side air bag area.

 

dynamat extreme is good stuff but they rape you for price,

do your research and

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/


Dyna mat extreme bulk pack $140 for 36 sq ft $3.88 per ft
Published Thickness (mils) 67
Published Foil Thickness (mils) 4


Raamat 60sqft for $130 $2.16 per ft
Published Thickness (mils) 60
Published Foil Thickness (mils) 2

damplifier 40sq ft for $115 $2.87 per ft
Published Thickness (mils) 65
Published Foil Thickness (mils) 3

damplifier pro 20sq ft $105 $5.25

Published Thickness (mils) 80
Published Foil Thickness (mils) 4

you can get damplifier which is better product for less.

now keep in mind there is a difference between how thick it is and how much weight it is. you want to mass load and add weight. raamat is cheaper but has 25% more airbubbles so less weight but thicker due to added air.

ALWAYS BUY BUTYL BASED NOT ASPHALT

 

i checked the holes for drainage under the door panel they have rubber grommets and i popped them off and it is still open so it is not covered. is there an open hole that water flows through that i need to check or is it the 4 or 5 holes on the bottom part of the door.

 

Good to know. Yeah, they do rape you on price. I'm really not fond of adding the weight, but I suppose it's a trade-off. I figured I already removed the resonater so adding this is like putting the resonater back in. LOL

 

The drain holes are not the ones with the plugs in, the drains are the ones in the bottom front and rear of the door, they are just small oblong slits in the thinner part of the door.

 

My wife commented on road noise this weekend. I told her I would look into it. My guess is that the bulk of the noise is coming from the rear wheelwells and rear trunk area. I was thinking about using the insulation mats they sell at Lowes or Home Depot. Anyone try that?

 

Raamaudio.com is the way to go. I've used Raamat and ensolite from them on all of my cars. I did the rear area of our SRT6 and it worked great. I used only one layer with great results. If you have any questions about installation etc. send me a message. I'll be glad to help you out.

 

DO NOT BUY PRODUCTS FROM LOWES OR HOME DEPOT


i was about to in my old car and found out that that stuff is for roofing and is asphalt based. when it gets hot it smells really bad in the car and tends to loose its adhesiveness overtime and then falls of.

the best bang for buck for price and weight savings is RAAMAUDIO or SecondSkinAudio.

 

If I want a quiet ride... I'll purchase a luxury sedan...

 

i want a daily driver that is quiet lolz so i can jam and listen to my music not wind and road noise.

 

Having suffered damage to my ears due to industrial noise, I shudder when I hear and feel the noises coming from cars beside me. In not too many years these same people will have hearing aids and permanent ringing in the ears due to tinnitus, be warned as it is not pleasant.

 

I recently took a short trip around a shopping mall in a friend's C5 Z06. I've been inside a C6 Z06, so I thought it would be similar but boy was I wrong...

Even at 30mph it sounded like a rock tumbler inside the car. It was a combination of engine vibration and exhaust noise and who knows what else!! Very "sporty"

 

I just installed a magnaflow on my Limited. It is getting a bit louder as it breaks in. Still has a nice deep warm tone, not tinny but louder.
With my engine modifications the sound is very aggressive, especially when you put your foot to the floor harder.
If anyone sound proofs the rear section please do a post letting everyone interested know if it works. It can be costly. It would be worth it to me. The sound inside the car at lower driving speeds is annoying. Louder then I thought it would be. In time i can imagine it only getting worse as the magnaflow breaks in more.
I'm not going to put the stock exhaust back on either way but just a little more sound deadening would be perfect inside the car.

 

i have got some more panels put in place and i can tell a 30% reduction in exhaust noise with the deadner in place.

my tire wells seems to be quieter as well probably around 20-25%, i think i am going to try to squeeze in another layer of deadner and add the factory carpet on top of the luxurt liner pro and maybe go all out and spray the wheel wheels on the exterior with liquid deadner.

now keep in mind i used some heavy duty deadener on the exhaust first i used a layer of damplifier pro and a layer of rammmat. that is a total of 1.4mill thick butyl and 6 mill thick foil. i figured once i have all the panels in place and some more luxury liner pro applied at the firewall side from the inside of the cab i should be able to reduce a good chunk of road noise, engine and exhaust.

 

I used B-Quite extreme in the trunk to quite exhaust drone it didn't do sh&*.

 

keep in mind mine was a stock exhaust and i used almost like 3.5 layers of b quiet extreme and a thicker foil layer and all butyl instead of asphalt composite.