My numbers are from Eurocharged who had me hooked up on the dyno. That's what Jake told me was the actual parameters when they were mapping out my engine's new programs.
They have worked on a few more cars than you. Argue with them.

Our engines are rated at 215 HP yet the same engine in the 320 SLK is 229 HP "by the book" Their actually is no difference. What's that about? Marketing. Diamler didn't want people thinking the cheaper Crossie had the same potential.

We learn so much from aftermarket gearheads and bless them, they know their stuff better than most of the factory mechanics. And they know the specs, the true ones.

You really should find a better hobby than trying to prove me wrong all the time.

BTW I think the speed limiter is based on the speedometer, not the tach, but can't swear to it.

 

Did a little unscientific research this morning. At 75 MPH (about 119-120 KPH) I got 2700-2800 RPMS on the tach. That equates to 5400-5500 rpms at 150 MPH (238-240 KPH)

Since the rev limiter can be set for every gear on a manual, the system could be programed to limit rev's at 5470 in 6th thereby limiting the car to 150-155 range. Which is where everybody seems to agree it tends to fall.

6,000 RPM as posted in whatever that "factual" document is would put top speed at 164 MPH (262 KPH) which we know is not the factory limit.

I stand by my numbers. 5470 RPMs was likely the rev limit on my car when it first went on the dyno. Just like Jake told me.

Since my rev limiter is now set at 6300 RPM in 6th gear my theoretical top speed would be 172.76 MPH (272 KPH). Assuming the HP and the torque can get it there over wind resistance.

I know last week I was bumping 160 on the speedo. Car wasn't even panting.

Just sayin'


roadster with stick

 

So you say the revs limit speed rather than the speedometer reading?

 

I am saying I don't know, but it doesn't matter.
I'm sayin that what Jake told me fits the math, fits observations.
You can duplicate it yourself, which is why I posted KPH values.

Do the math, it works both ways on the revs at 150 MPH and the speeds people have been posting.

Some of the literature about the car has quasi facts. Not uncommon in the auto industry.

The guys at Eurocharged, and the guys at TVT, know better what our cars are doing, what they are capable of and aren't selling anything but good service.

Auto companies sell whatever their lawyers tell them is OK.

 

Probably one of the truest statements on this forum...

 

Sorry John I disagree, I think this is probably one of the truest statements on this forum.

[quote=Franc Rauscher]I am saying I don't know, but it doesn't matter.
quote]

 

[quote=onehundred80]Sorry John I disagree, I think this is probably one of the truest statements on this forum.

I knew when I typed that phrase you would rise to the bait.

Foolish old man. You really need to find a different hobby.

 

[quote=Franc Rauscher]OK Mario.....

 

Can we know where this happened?

 

Why, you the law or sumpthun?


I'm not sayin' if happened but, if it did!!! ( 1 2 3 ... Last Page)

 

It's good to know that the car is solid at those speeds if such a thing ever were to actually happen.

 

I will echo most of the comments here. Achieving the "magazine" published quarter miles are typical your best case scenario bearing in mind some are theoretical numbers based on track conditions and weather.
Track prep and weather variables will play a major role in what you can run take into account humidity, temperature, headwind, etc also pay close attention to track preparation.

A couple of pointers regarding improving your "stock" numbers are:
1. Reset your throttle
2. Don't race a full tank
3. Pay close attention to engine temps (dont drive 80mph to the track for 3 hrs and expect to immediately make a decent pass)
4. Check tire pressure, lower pressure in the rear can improve traction (not likely an issue on bases and limited unless poor track prep) slightly higher pressure in the front can reduce friction.

As for more power (as much as I hate the response) an srt is a better value than modding if you are looking for high hp/or competitive track times. Otherwise look into the vendors mentioned for CAI, injectors, tune etc.

I'm no expert and have only tracked my car a few times and my base model (6sp) consistently ran 15.130-15.177 (always at 93mph) with good track prep and 3/4's full of fuel. Unfortunately this is also after about a 2hr drive to the track and only about a 5 min cooldown. Based on my lack of experience with drag racing (only my second time) I think a good driver could get a base into the high 14's but dropping a second off that is going to get expensive.

For those who can make sense of the numbers below is a slip from my first pass.
Perhaps someone can indicate the weak points of these cars in stock form.
I was likely a bit conservative with throttle off the line as it tended to bog a bit at launch.
My best time was a 15.130 with a r/t of .065

Slip03.jpg?t=1269916230

 

the 60ft is what you need to work on, no doubt about it. for every 0.1 you can shave off your 60ft time you should yeild a drop of 0.2 seconds ET thru the 1/4 mile! launch harder without spinning the tires.

 

My exact thoughts bro...

 

Hey, I just call it like I see it.