About 4 or 5 months after I got my 2004 Crossfire it seems that I've been having tire/wheel problems ever since. One of the rims developed a crack and I had to replace it.
Now one of the tires just seems to have a slow leak that is never getting fixed. I've brought it in about 3 times and had it "sealed" but the leak still happens.

Has anyone else had this problem and how did you handle it?

Couple that with living in PA and am thinking of just selling it before the cold weather gets here.

 

you may have a bent rim thats allowing the air to escape. sealing it wont work if thats the issue

 

Take it off the car yourself, spray it down with a soapy solution to determine where the leak is. I suggest you overfill the tire just a bit while checking for leaks. Once you find the leak, point it out to your tire repair shop. Maybe another cracked rim, sidewall checking, etc...

James

 

I've had a problem like this for awhile for only one rim. Turns out it's slightly bent in a way that's not really visible to eye if you just take the tire off and look at it. The only way I saw it was when the tire guy at the tire shop had shown me on the balancing machine.

 

Take the wheels off the car and very closely inspect the inside flange of the wheel where the bead is. I had to replace all my wheels due to very small cracks in the wheel that WILL slowly grow to the point of losing all your air in a few hours.

Damn Michigan Roads!!!

 

I don't know how old your tires are but if they're not new it could be dry rot and the air could be leaking through the sidewall. I've seen this happen quite a few times.

 

I had a slow slow leak and in the end I took the wheel off and looked for a nail or something like that. I went round the wheel three time before I realized that what I thought was a stone in the tread was actually a rusted screw. It was rusted because I had not driven the car for a few days after a rain shower.
Also check the valve stem for leaks due to a leaky valve.

 

o rings that seal the valve stem might need to be replaced

 

anyone know where to get the o rings for the valve stems??

 

Just replace the valve stems but first spray them with soapy water and see if they are leaking. I would also try tightening the valves themselves?

 

The only cars that have "valve stems" are Base and SE models. Limiteds and SRTs have TPMS sensors with integrated "valve stems", I do not believe that exact replacement o-rings are available without spending $400 for a new set of compatible sensors, but you could call Rob at Needswings and see if he can source something suitable.

OR, just have a shop take the tire off, remove the TPMS sensor and toss it in the trash and have them install a new, actual valve stem - and just run without TPMS. My SE has never had TPMS, as I indicated above, nor does it have a steering wheel airbag.

 

I do not know what he means by an o-ring. There are TPMS rebuilt kits (plastic cap, nickel plated valve core, rubber grommet and aluminum nut). This isn't something a DIY would change. Any reputable tire shop such as a Discount Tire will have these in stock and change them at no cost with any tire service that involves the tire being removed from the wheel.

 

I think he is referring to the "rubber grommet" as an "o-ring".

 

Still makes no sense, pretty much any tire shop has those in stock.

 

I think I would find a new tire shop. Do not seem very knowledgeable.
As far as the TPMS sensors go how old are they? If the batteries go dead, they cannot be cloned. If they cannot be cloned, you need to find a shop with rare software to reprogram.
When I had mine replaced, they were $50 a piece. What pizza guy said about replacing with a standard valve stem is a viable option. Just remember this will trigger a warning light.
This can be turned off by the procedure found in crossfire repairs and problems documents.
I will put this out there for you also because some people will respond about just covering the warning light with electrical tape. Which I find ridiculous but to each their own. This will cause loss of sales if you ever want to sell.
I personally would not buy a car with electrical tape on instrument cluster. I would be too concerned about how much of the car is held together with electrical tape and bubble gum.

 

(Update and resolution, I think, maybe ... )
Brought the car to Big O Tires where the new tires were recently installed. Turned out to be a nail in the driver side rear tire. Fixed. Covered under road hazard insurance. I'll keep an eye on it, obviously, since I check tire pressure at least once a week anyway. For now, my TPMS saga seems to be resolved.
A couple of months ago had new tires installed. TPMS light came on after driving a bit, parking, then starting off again. This pattern continued.
Two days ago, checked the tire pressure and discovered the driver side rear was almost completely deflated. Filled it up, the TPMS light was off, life was good.
Yesterday morning, the light came on shortly after heading out. Checked the driver side rear tire and it was 7 pounds down. Reinflated, drove off, TPMS light went off.
This morning, no light at all.
So ... it seems the TPMS system is working ... drops in pressure trigger the light. But ... how did the tire go almost completely flat overnight? How did it lose 7 pounds the next night? And how is it just fine today after driving, stopping, driving off again ... the kind of thing that's triggered the light before?
I will be taking the car to Big O, the tire shop that installed the tire, and have them check the valve stems, sensors, everything.
I've been dreading having to replace the TPMS system, even looking into aftermarket add-on systems that provide individual tire pressures.
In any case, the TPMS system is 17 years old and if I can just replace old parts with new parts, that is best. Or, perhaps there is just a leak in the driver side rear tire and that's a whole other bit of automotive joy. I kinda hope it is the tire, it's still almost brand new and under warrantee.

 

In some odd cases it depends on what position the wheel is parked, one position opens the area leaking and another position closes the leaking area. Whatever it is it needs fixing ASAP.

 

"I will put this out there for you also because some people will respond about just covering the warning light with electrical tape. Which I find ridiculous but to each their own. This will cause loss of sales if you ever want to sell."

Hi, Wadsworth. I be that guy. After I had Discount Tire replace all the TPMS in my roadster and fail on recalibrating, they told me to go to the Chrysler dealer (who would charge me $200). Little piece of tape made the problem go away, and I am not selling it so it does not matter. Strangely, when I had the tires replaced on my SRT6 about 8 years ago, I told them to leave the TPMS alone, and they still work great after 18 years.

 

I think they only use juice when the tires are turning. When I traded in the 2007 (in 2013) it had 80,000 miles on it and I covered the light with electrical tape before the trade-in.

Wilma (2008 model ) only has 50,000 miles on her and after 16 years the original sensors are still good.