The reason your A/C isn't cold, is that air MUST be drawn over the condensor to draw heat out of it, so that the evaporator can draw heat out of the inside of the car!

THAT is why the fun runs slow when the A/C is on.

Again, either the module or motor is bad, IMO. I don't see how it can be anything else (other than the fuse to the fan which is 50 amps, I believe and is in the fusebox under the hood, driver's side, I THINK.)

 

Yes the condensor needs to be cooled down in order for the a/c to properly get cold, thats why a/c condensors are in the front of the car like the radiator they both need cooling. Your a/c will get cool at first but will start getting warmer as the condensor heats up not allowing the freon to cool down and be condensed properly. If the fuse is blown then it was because the motor was drawing to much amperage, thus its shorting out, or is burned out, you need to hot wire it for sure, its just a 12v motor that runs on a positive and ground connection.

 

Thank you very very much guys. I will test the fan asap. I personally dont think it could be anything else. either fan or the module.

Anybody knows a place to buy module cheap or at a reasonable price? the price I was given today (300.00) sounded pretty brutal.

 

The connecter for the fan is located (as you stand in front of the open engine compartment) just to the right of the fan/shroud assembly. Pull that connecter and attach the wire mention above to the wires coming from the fan.
The fan is VERY easy to remove if you want better access to it.

All of this "fan" trouble from a guy with "fan" in his forum name. mmmmm...

 

Yea, and his car is LOWERED.... nothing works after you lower a car, he's got that car too low, fan is probably hitting the pavement, no wonder it wont turn.

 

Not this one, at least I do not think so. That one was totalled

 

Still has the lowered one in his sig.

Musclefan, don't forget to check the fuse before you do all that. It could just be a blow fuse, and while something DID blow it, fuses can sometimes just be a bad fuse. You could also have something shorting it out, but who knows. See if it's blow first, and if it is, replace it. If it does it again, you know you have a problem somewhere else, probably a bad ground. That would most likely just be a wiring problem, and while expensive, a shop COULD fix it for you for less than $300.

Anyways, check the fuse first if you haven't yet. I believe it's on the drivers side, under the hood. I think there might be another box somewhere, but I might be thinking of my old Buick. If it's not in the first box mentioned, check the manual to see if there's another one. That could save you a lot of money and time.

 

Thanks guys. I wil check the fuse when I get a chance.

I dont know what is going on but i drove the car around a bit. went to groccerry shopping and then drove to work 10 miles. Nothing happened. the temp gauge went a tad over the middle max adn most of the time it stayed a tad below the middle the entire time. I turned the A/C on and it was blowing cold as usual. The radiator light would come on every once in a while and then it would go away.

Hmm... I am not sure why the temp didnt go higher and higher...

It was 94 degrees while driving by the way.

Any thoughts?

Also, once again, where can I get cheap or reasonable priced fan control module? Anyone have part number for it?

Thanks guys,. You have been very helpful.

 

The motion of your car is forcing air through the radiator and AC condenser. As long as yer moving you shouldn't have too much of a problem. Park it and let it run. THEN you will see the temp go up!

 

Damn lazy kids today LOL j/k

Muscle, this is the second (non-lowered) alabaster coupe for you, correct?

 

Yes this is a completely stock car inside, out. I really dont like the way it sits because i loved the lowered look but i like everything else about this one over the other one. Well, except, it overheats now

 

Maybe there is something to the idea of never buying the 1st or 2nd year of any car......

Wilma ('08)........price back up to $30K!!!!!

 

Hey Musclefan,

You keep saying that the temp gauge is in the middle of the temp range, or a bit hotter, and that its a radiator light coming on on the dash.

I hate to ask the obvious, but have you actually checked the coolant level in the reservoir tank, and in the radiator?

The Radiator light on the dash indicates when the coolant level is TOO LOW, or when the coolant is too hot.

Here's the link for the '04 Owners manual:

http://www.majormotorshotrods.com/_d...27s_Manual.pdf

Please flip to page 5 and tell us if the light you are seeing is the third one from the bottom on the left column, or the second to the right on the bottom row.

From what you are indicating, its the one on the bottom row. If it is, flip to page 90 of the Owner's Manual, and read up on that light. Your coolant level just might be too low, and you aren't overheating.

I'm amazed no one has mentioned this possibility yet.

BC.

 

I can't believe no one thought of that yet. Slipped my mind too.

Did you check the fuse yet?

 

source of the problem has been found. Fan bearings all messed up. Motor is still good but the fan was wobbling pretty bad. Took it out and we will see if it is rebuildable. If it is, then we will get it rebuilt. If not, i will be one.

Where is this fuse located fellas?

Thank you

 

Well I am in the same banana boat now. I have MuscleFan's fan in my trunk from the gtg I drive 20 miles on our way back from Lake Geneva and I get the same problem as him lol...When I have my ac on my fan is NOT spinning, but the weird thing is I am getting the light problem too but when the light isn't on the engine is perfectly fine and when the light is off it starts heating up a tad. So I am gonna take a guess and say the fan is kicking on and off, mine is freely spinning unlike MuscleFans. I am going to take it out and see if the fan is fine at some point today. I think my problem might be the Control Module and or maybe a fuse but it's weird that the car is cool when the light isn't on which makes me think my fan is working just something isn't telling it to work. I'll post back in a bit to see what I come up with but if it is the control module I do have a 2 year warranty on it but with a $100 deductible each time I take it in. Would the cost of this exceed $100?

 

either way it would be more than 100 bucks. module is like 300 bucks. and fan is 130 bucks on ebay.

It sucks to hear man. I hope you get it taken care of easily.

 

Geez BP11 ... sorry to here of this ... BUT .... could be that you got his disabled FAN in YOUR trunk ..... wear surgical gloves and take it out of the trunk .... might be infectious .
LOL
Seriously ... hope you find the problem

 

Thank you I am sure I'll figure it out it's looking like the control module is messed up but until I test the fan i won't know.

 

Tested the fan and that was all good so I am not exactly on MuscleFans same page here I am going to see if it acts up after taking everything apart and putting it back on. Crossing my fingers here lol but it's looking like the control module for the fan if it keeps doing this.