Took a 40 mile trip to somewhere, everything seemed to be fine. it was a hot day as usual (around 90*) i had the A/C blasting at max power. I took exit on the highway, drove 2 miles, arrived to my destination and I noticed a light on the left side of the dash which looked just like a radiator. The temp gauge was well over the middle. I tried to drive it to see if it would go down, drove less than quarter mile and it was about to touch red zone. Immediately parked the car. Left it there for 6 hours. I then drove the back home. it was a decently cool night. high 70s, low 80s. I didnt turn the A/C on. temp gauge stayed a tad under the middle the entire time. I got off the highway, it hit the middle, even went a tab over it. radiator light came on again. I arrived home, popped the hood while the engine was idling. The gauge went a tad over the middle and it stayed there for 5 minutes or so idling. It didnt go down or up. The fan never kicked in in that time. The radiator light came on again. I turned the car off and went home.

So what do you think my problem is? I am afraid it will overheat during the day since it gets hot but this never happened to me before. I wonder if my fan is dead.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

If it's over the normal operating temp (middle) and the fan isn't kicking on, it's probably something with the fan. First thing you should check is the fuse. If that's fine, you might have a burnt out relay control module or the fan itself.

 

I had the same problems the day I bought my car, it was fine on the motorway, but when I hit traffic it overheated badly, had to pullover and let he cool down before attempting to get home. There were a couple of fuses that were blown, but I believe the most significant was the 50 fuse that sits in a bot near the battery - its a different kind of fuse and there are 4 of them in the little box. Not sure what the box is called, but once I changed that everything was working fine again.

Hope that made sense, and is of use to you!

Regards

AR

 

Fuses blow for a reason, please dont overlook this fact. Your fan may have a shorted commutator bar or winding and the bad spot blew the fuse. Driving, the motion is all that is needed to cool the car, slow and it heats up. Woody

 

Is your cooling fan working at all ? The cooling fan has two different settings, one for regular cooling of the engine, and then the other for a/c operation. Since your fan did not come on? ( which might take awhile ) try running your car with the a/c on the fan should come on to help keep the condenser cool, if not then check your fuses for the cooling fan, if they are good then try to hot wire the fan to the battery to see if it works , if it does not it could be a bad fan motor, if it does your problem may be elsewhere.

 

king is right...

If you have the A/C on, the fan should be running at "slow speed"... once the needle gets just above halfway, it should speed up.

Deb walker had the same problem... turned out to be the fan motor. She found one on eBay for around $150 -included the shroud, blades, motor and harness.

It could be the 50 amp fuse or the fan module itself.

 

Keep in mind that there is a Campaign (Recall) for the fan assembly. Has yours been changed?

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...data-tsbs.html

1st item on this list. It's NOT just a Technical Service Bulletin.

 

I can't remember, what year did you get as a replacement muscle?

This has nothing to do with nothing but it's kind of a funny story......in 1978 I bought a brand new L48 automatic Corvette....beautiful....but a dog & a piece of $hit.....for about 3 years I marveled how well the cooling system worked ....but in winter I would freeze my *** off until I finally realized that the thermostat had been stuck in the open position since brand new!!

 

Thank you guys. I am going to check the fuse and replace the fan relay to see if it fixes the problem. Where can I buy a fan relay? And where is fan relay and fuses located exactly?

If that doesnt fix my problem, it may be a bad fan motor???

 

There is no relay - it's the "Fan Control Module" and it's right there on the driver's side fender wall, you'll see the wiring harness coming from around the backside of the engine compartment, connnecting to it, then on to the fan itself.

I suspect that module is well over $100 from Mercedes and over $250 from Chrysler.

But see the post above about the recall!

 

Chris, it is 2004.

I thought about thermostat at first. But then, if it was thermostat, wouldnt the car overheat on the way back even though it was at night? Also, when i let it idle for 5 minutes, wouldnt it overheat? It just went pass the middle by just a bit and stayed there.

 

So simply go to chrysler dealer and say that my car is overheating and have it taken care of under recall?

I dont want them to take the car in, and then give me a bill for a grand saying, yeah we found out the problem was something else and wasnt a recall issue.

 

Dude.
Hook 12 volts up to the fan terminals and see if the fan spins.
If it does fan is good!

And for all of the SAFETY folks "DANGER FAN CAN CUT YOU"!

 

Also note that if you hook 12v up to the fan, it will run at FULL speed. Only do it for a couple of seconds..... and keep your body parts and loose clothing out of the way, as DJ mentioned....

 

care to explain how? i mean, you say it and it is good, but I have to no idea, how and where to start to do that. Plus, what tools do I need to do that?

called MB dealership for fan control module and they say said it is 300 bucks.

 

I called a chrysler dealership to see if it could be covered under a recall, the service person advised me that there was not a single recall under my car's vin #.

So I guess, i am not lucky on that one.

 

You will need a couple of long length heavy type wires not like speaker wire but something a little heavier, and perferably different colors ( red/black ) and find your fan connection unplug it and make a good connection with the wires at the harness from the fan and then touch them to neg and positive on your battery, it may spark some since it does draw some amperage, the fan should start up and run if not bad. But be careful since if it is bad and shorted the wires may get real hot fast.

 

This is what I found on an earlier thread/post about the Cooling fan Module:


New Recall issued! - 01-27-2006 , 10:58 PM


Chrysler announced yesterday that they have issued a Recall E-19 Radiator Cooling Fan Module for some Crossfires. This is for cars built between March 1 2004 and Sept. 14, 2005. Not all cars are effected in this run and they will be mailing out letters within one week. This is just a heads up for the members here. Call your Dealer and give them your VIN# and they can check it out for you.

 

Just ran the car again. The gauge came up to middle after a bit of driving and idling. I turned the A/C on max. Nope, fan never kicked in no matter what. Also for some reason, A/C wasnt blowing as cold...

I will follow those instructions and see if my fan is good. If it is, then control module is bad.

Can anyone help me find a control module cheap?? I already found fan on ebay for 120 bucks shipped. God i hope my fan is bad

 

Re-reading this makes me wonder - does the Fan Control module KNOW the fan is not running, that is, if the fan motor is bad? Your post implies that it does - that it measures the currnet the fan motor is "drawing".

But Deb Walker, as far as I know, didn't get the light when her motor went bad. This makes me think the Fan Module is bad.

I go with Tighd1, disconnect the cable connector between the fan module and fan motor. THen, use some reasonably heavy wire to test the motor. Strip the ends of two peices of wire, shove the stripped ends into the fan motor's connector, strip the other end and touch them to the battery. THe motor should run at high speed, the wires will arc a bit as you touch them - but as you were told above, don't leave it on long, the wires will get hot fast! IF the motor runs, then I'd say you need a fan control module. IF the motor refuses to run, you need a fan motor.

And I am not sure, do recall items expire after so many years? I don't know.