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You will probably get many opinions on how often to change the diff fluid. Mine was pretty dirty at 20,000 miles. I will most likely do it again at 40,000 miles just to see what it looks like. Some may think this is overkill, but I would rather spend $20 for oil than the cost of a rear end.
The owner's manual says to use 75W85 synthetic axle lubricant that meets MB 231.1But my intention is to learn, not 'correct.' Why is 75W140 being recommended???
I changed my rear diff oil first at 47,000 miles with mobile 1 75-140 (it was burnt!). I just changed it for a second time at 67,000 miles with royal purple 75-140 (not as burnt as the first time)... the royal purple seems to have toned down the rear end "whine" these diffs are known for.
Is there any truth to that you suppose??? 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
I have used Mobile 1 75W90 in both Crossfires and that's what we've used at the North GA tech days for years. Less than two quarts does it.
I'm going to use these links since they are all products in stock at the auto parts store just down the road! 😉😄👍
You're specifically recommending the product in this link, correct?https://www.autozone.com/greases-and...1-quart/1437_0
Even though this is an LS (limited slip) lubricant? My understanding is that the Crossfire DOES NOT have a limited-slip diff.
What do you use to make putting the diff fluid into the diff a non-cussing affair??? Does someone sell a pump-handle that screws onto the bottle-top? I've just spent too much time on my back with oil running down my arm to not have a 'better plan' formulated in advance!
I'm going to use these links since they are all products in stock at the auto parts store just down the road! 😉😄👍
You're specifically recommending the product in this link, correct?https://www.autozone.com/greases-and...1-quart/1437_0
Even though this is an LS (limited slip) lubricant? My understanding is that the Crossfire DOES NOT have a limited-slip diff.
What do you use to make putting the diff fluid into the diff a non-cussing affair??? Does someone sell a pump-handle that screws onto the bottle-top? I've just spent too much time on my back with oil running down my arm to not have a 'better plan' formulated in advance!
You can buy a large syringe especially for jobs like this or you could sneak into the kitchen and borrow the turkey baster.
We did mine at a Tech day in North GA. I worked on sticky keys and sound systems while Zach and Nick did my fluids.
I can't tell you what they used, it's been four years already.
Shown is Nick putting my HAWK HPS brake pads on the front, while others watch and offer beer.
I was working on a sticky key at the time....
We did mine at a Tech day in North GA. I worked on sticky keys and sound systems while Zach and Nick did my fluids.
I can't tell you what they used, it's been four years already.
Shown is Nick putting my HAWK HPS brake pads on the front, while others watch and offer beer.
I was working on a sticky key at the time....
I am forgetting about all the 75W-140 oils unless someone wants to step forward in their defense. Does anyone want to speak to Liqui Moly or Royal Purple? It just occurred to me to change the diff oil whilst I've the rear raised-up renewing the fuel filter & hoses.
For 25+ years I had a cheap electric (car battery clamps) liquid transfer pump that I got from JC Whitney before the internet even existed. To clean it was futile and so it lived an oily but well-lubricated life always put back inside a plastic shopping bag. When I moved from FL to AL in 2014 it was one of the things I left up in the attic (I had pull-down stairs from the attic into my garage in that house). That pump was probably like a $5.99 special, and it sure as Hell paid for itself!!
Liquid Moly and Royal Purple both have strong followings here. I'm a Mobile 1 guy myself but MANY here support LM and RP.
I dont' think there is a lot of difference, buy what you believe in. NONE of these will harm the car and ANY new lubricant is better than the stuff that's in there, after all these years.
I've narrowed my selection to this list, sorted from most expensive to least. They are all available locally at either NAPA or AUTOZONE, and both have free shipping over $35 (in case a store isn't close to you).
All of these can be used in either limited slip (locking) differentials or not, except for the $19.29 LIQUI MOLY, which is for open diffs (like we have) only. That means except for LM22090 they all have special additives for locking diffs added.
Right now I'm leaning towards LM22090 because it's "specialized", if you will, for open differentials. I'll get under the car in the next few days and get a feeling for how much room I have to maneuver a liter bottle of fluid to the fill-hole. If it's super-tight then I can be convinced that going with a squeezable pouch might be in order. And yes, I watched the funny ad in the post above! I would have been convinced to contact my local "Amsoil is my side-thing" 'dude', but Valvoline (also in a squeezable pouch) scored number 2 (was the runner-up to Amsoil) in the Amsoil "face-off". Like one poster commented, "At half the price you might have just sold a lot of Valvoline!"
We did mine at a Tech day in North GA. I worked on sticky keys and sound systems while Zach and Nick did my fluids.
I can't tell you what they used, it's been four years already.
Shown is Nick putting my HAWK HPS brake pads on the front, while others watch and offer beer.
I was working on a sticky key at the time....
and your cure for sticky key ?
Thanks in advance
Rich Barry
You can buy a large syringe especially for jobs like this or you could sneak into the kitchen and borrow the turkey baster.
I've "borrowed" the turkey baster so many times it now resides in the tool shed... Wife didn't like what it smelled like the last time I washed it out and returned it. Gear lube STINKS.
I've "borrowed" the turkey baster so many times it now resides in the tool shed... Wife didn't like what it smelled like the last time I washed it out and returned it. Gear lube STINKS.
from page 245 of manual, synthetic SAE 75W85 that meets MB 231.1
That's a truncated quote. The full text in the manual says:
Use synthetic SAE 75W-85 axle lubricant that meets MB 231.1, such as Mopar 05136035AA. An SAE 80W-90
GL-5/MIL-2105-E Synthetic Axle Lubricant may be substituted.
And all of the other gear oils I've listed above are no different in specification to the Red Line fluid sold by FCP Euro (I.E., all synthetic 75W90 GL-5 hypoid gear oil containing LSD friction modifiers).