Help - Total loss of power on the road!
Doc,
I could be wrong, but following the schematics in the service manual, I find NO battery supply routed thru the Relay Control Module except that which goes thru the Engine Control Relay, Traction Relay, Air Pump Relay, Horn Relay or Fuel Pump Relay - EXCEPT for the Black/Dark Green wire going to the PTCM. I simply don't see the RCM as a "battery B+" path, and I've printed 8W-10-1 to 8W-10-23 of the manual. THere is simply no path there. Now if it was an engine dies, but power to the four ways, etc. is still there, then SURE, it's the RCM!
The best clue he's given us, is that the four ways would not flash. This is largely a Body Control Module issue. So, where does the BCM get it's non-switched battery power? (This is the question to ask, since we know the four ways are powered without the switch AND the four ways are a BCM - operated accessory.) If we can find the failure in power to that circuit, it stands to reason that we can find the failure, period. (I know you'd THINK it was the Illumination Control Module that operates the four-ways, but in this case, it's not.) Answer: Fuses 9, 16 and 19 of the Underhood Accessory Fuse Block.
This power ALL comes from SPLICE BLOCK 100, which is fed by the 200 amp fuse in the little black box near the battery (the one I previously said had grounds in it.) This fuse is powered from the battery with a large cable that is the SMALLER of the two cables coming off the battery positive terminal. Unless the 200 amp fuse is bad (not likely) or the nuts on that fuse are corroded/loose, I still blame the battery/battery connections/battery cables. Sure, one of the other fuses COULD be bad... but I don't see that. I guess opening the fuse box and pulling those fuses to see if they have been allowed to get wet and corroded would be a good idea.
A loose connection on splice block 100 is another guess. Problem is, I cannot find where splice block 100 is - in the box with the RCM/PTCM/BCM???? Does anyone know?
I'm not there, but I STILL wonder about the battery connections, including the tightness of the ground screw on the negative/ground battery cable.
I cannot see where the RCM solder joints could cause this "total power down". But I would open that little black box and verify that the cable from the battery positive terminal going into that box has it's nut TIGHTLY secured to the bus in there!
I could be wrong, but following the schematics in the service manual, I find NO battery supply routed thru the Relay Control Module except that which goes thru the Engine Control Relay, Traction Relay, Air Pump Relay, Horn Relay or Fuel Pump Relay - EXCEPT for the Black/Dark Green wire going to the PTCM. I simply don't see the RCM as a "battery B+" path, and I've printed 8W-10-1 to 8W-10-23 of the manual. THere is simply no path there. Now if it was an engine dies, but power to the four ways, etc. is still there, then SURE, it's the RCM!
The best clue he's given us, is that the four ways would not flash. This is largely a Body Control Module issue. So, where does the BCM get it's non-switched battery power? (This is the question to ask, since we know the four ways are powered without the switch AND the four ways are a BCM - operated accessory.) If we can find the failure in power to that circuit, it stands to reason that we can find the failure, period. (I know you'd THINK it was the Illumination Control Module that operates the four-ways, but in this case, it's not.) Answer: Fuses 9, 16 and 19 of the Underhood Accessory Fuse Block.
This power ALL comes from SPLICE BLOCK 100, which is fed by the 200 amp fuse in the little black box near the battery (the one I previously said had grounds in it.) This fuse is powered from the battery with a large cable that is the SMALLER of the two cables coming off the battery positive terminal. Unless the 200 amp fuse is bad (not likely) or the nuts on that fuse are corroded/loose, I still blame the battery/battery connections/battery cables. Sure, one of the other fuses COULD be bad... but I don't see that. I guess opening the fuse box and pulling those fuses to see if they have been allowed to get wet and corroded would be a good idea.
A loose connection on splice block 100 is another guess. Problem is, I cannot find where splice block 100 is - in the box with the RCM/PTCM/BCM???? Does anyone know?
I'm not there, but I STILL wonder about the battery connections, including the tightness of the ground screw on the negative/ground battery cable.
I cannot see where the RCM solder joints could cause this "total power down". But I would open that little black box and verify that the cable from the battery positive terminal going into that box has it's nut TIGHTLY secured to the bus in there!
Last edited by pizzaguy; Jan 1, 2013 at 03:36 PM.
Thanks...I'll check using your methods. The service folks did check the battery, cable and terminals (battery/cables were replaced earlier this year, so maybe there is a faulty connection). My next call was going to be to the european motors service company in town...maybe a better bet if your test yields no result. Again...thanks!
There are some CHEAP battery cables on the after-market market.
Posted by GG:
Rarely have I heard when Pizza pulls out the manual, that a fix was not found. Hell, I actually never have heard a problem that Pizza got involved in was not successfully fixed down the road. This is the guy who makes things happen! You have a meticulous troubleshooter on the case!
And remember, I won't even change my own brake pads, it's just that troubleshooting electrical and electronic equipment is how I earned a living for 29 years.
WHAT? Did you have this problem before they did this work?
There are some CHEAP battery cables on the after-market market.
I haven't sent you a check for saying this stuff in a long time. How much do I owe you now?
And remember, I won't even change my own brake pads, it's just that troubleshooting electrical and electronic equipment is how I earned a living for 29 years.
There are some CHEAP battery cables on the after-market market.
I haven't sent you a check for saying this stuff in a long time. How much do I owe you now?
And remember, I won't even change my own brake pads, it's just that troubleshooting electrical and electronic equipment is how I earned a living for 29 years.
Hmmm, I thought suckups were only real when the party to the first part wanted something from the party of the second part. Hmmmm, now I'm thinking of parties, time to get a drink seeing it is after 5 somewhere... Oh, does anyone know if the cliff ride has stopped yet? Oh, hey Geo, Happy New Years to you n yours! 
Well, thanks GG. I just hope we get this guy's car to where he trusts it again.
I'm really waiting to hear back, anyone wanna bet that the nut in the little box is loose OR that he unknowingly bought a cheap China-built battery cable that is causing him more problems?
In this case, ordering a overly-costly OEM cable set from Chrysler might have saved him trouble in the long run!
I'm really waiting to hear back, anyone wanna bet that the nut in the little box is loose OR that he unknowingly bought a cheap China-built battery cable that is causing him more problems?
In this case, ordering a overly-costly OEM cable set from Chrysler might have saved him trouble in the long run!
Thanks for all the contributions. I did find that it appeared the negative side of the battery connection was loose...barely, but maybe enough to cause the outage. Still intend to follow up and check in on my local european motors service garage and see if they might be a new [better?] source of service.
Doc,
I could be wrong, but following the schematics in the service manual, I find NO battery supply routed thru the Relay Control Module except that which goes thru the Engine Control Relay, Traction Relay, Air Pump Relay, Horn Relay or Fuel Pump Relay - EXCEPT for the Black/Dark Green wire going to the PTCM. I simply don't see the RCM as a "battery B+" path, and I've printed 8W-10-1 to 8W-10-23 of the manual. THere is simply no path there. Now if it was an engine dies, but power to the four ways, etc. is still there, then SURE, it's the RCM!
The best clue he's given us, is that the four ways would not flash. This is largely a Body Control Module issue. So, where does the BCM get it's non-switched battery power? (This is the question to ask, since we know the four ways are powered without the switch AND the four ways are a BCM - operated accessory.) If we can find the failure in power to that circuit, it stands to reason that we can find the failure, period. (I know you'd THINK it was the Illumination Control Module that operates the four-ways, but in this case, it's not.) Answer: Fuses 9, 16 and 19 of the Underhood Accessory Fuse Block.
This power ALL comes from SPLICE BLOCK 100, which is fed by the 200 amp fuse in the little black box near the battery (the one I previously said had grounds in it.) This fuse is powered from the battery with a large cable that is the SMALLER of the two cables coming off the battery positive terminal. Unless the 200 amp fuse is bad (not likely) or the nuts on that fuse are corroded/loose, I still blame the battery/battery connections/battery cables. Sure, one of the other fuses COULD be bad... but I don't see that. I guess opening the fuse box and pulling those fuses to see if they have been allowed to get wet and corroded would be a good idea.
A loose connection on splice block 100 is another guess. Problem is, I cannot find where splice block 100 is - in the box with the RCM/PTCM/BCM???? Does anyone know?
I'm not there, but I STILL wonder about the battery connections, including the tightness of the ground screw on the negative/ground battery cable.
I cannot see where the RCM solder joints could cause this "total power down". But I would open that little black box and verify that the cable from the battery positive terminal going into that box has it's nut TIGHTLY secured to the bus in there!
I could be wrong, but following the schematics in the service manual, I find NO battery supply routed thru the Relay Control Module except that which goes thru the Engine Control Relay, Traction Relay, Air Pump Relay, Horn Relay or Fuel Pump Relay - EXCEPT for the Black/Dark Green wire going to the PTCM. I simply don't see the RCM as a "battery B+" path, and I've printed 8W-10-1 to 8W-10-23 of the manual. THere is simply no path there. Now if it was an engine dies, but power to the four ways, etc. is still there, then SURE, it's the RCM!
The best clue he's given us, is that the four ways would not flash. This is largely a Body Control Module issue. So, where does the BCM get it's non-switched battery power? (This is the question to ask, since we know the four ways are powered without the switch AND the four ways are a BCM - operated accessory.) If we can find the failure in power to that circuit, it stands to reason that we can find the failure, period. (I know you'd THINK it was the Illumination Control Module that operates the four-ways, but in this case, it's not.) Answer: Fuses 9, 16 and 19 of the Underhood Accessory Fuse Block.
This power ALL comes from SPLICE BLOCK 100, which is fed by the 200 amp fuse in the little black box near the battery (the one I previously said had grounds in it.) This fuse is powered from the battery with a large cable that is the SMALLER of the two cables coming off the battery positive terminal. Unless the 200 amp fuse is bad (not likely) or the nuts on that fuse are corroded/loose, I still blame the battery/battery connections/battery cables. Sure, one of the other fuses COULD be bad... but I don't see that. I guess opening the fuse box and pulling those fuses to see if they have been allowed to get wet and corroded would be a good idea.
A loose connection on splice block 100 is another guess. Problem is, I cannot find where splice block 100 is - in the box with the RCM/PTCM/BCM???? Does anyone know?
I'm not there, but I STILL wonder about the battery connections, including the tightness of the ground screw on the negative/ground battery cable.
I cannot see where the RCM solder joints could cause this "total power down". But I would open that little black box and verify that the cable from the battery positive terminal going into that box has it's nut TIGHTLY secured to the bus in there!
Thanks for all the contributions. I did find that it appeared the negative side of the battery connection was loose...barely, but maybe enough to cause the outage. Still intend to follow up and check in on my local european motors service garage and see if they might be a new [better?] source of service. 
Put it all back on nice and tight, kiss the wife and say goodnight.
Twere it me, I'd remove the negative cable, clean the post clamp with one of those battery reamer or brushes, clean the battery post with same tool, then sand the eyelet end with emory paper, as well as the spot on the body where it connects.
Put it all back on nice and tight, kiss the wife and say goodnight.
Put it all back on nice and tight, kiss the wife and say goodnight.
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