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What engine should I buy?

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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 04:52 PM
  #1 (permalink)  
Alabaster xfire's Avatar
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Default What engine should I buy?

Hello fellow Crossfire Members, I'm 16, and I just got my 2005 Alabaster white crossfire four months ago. My dad also owns a Crossfire as well. I have a high paying job believe it or not, and my engine has about 77k miles on it. I know it's too early to replace it now, but when it finally decides to break on me. Do you guys have any idea on what engine I should get installed next? Right now it's just a stock engine. I'm looking for an engine for my xfire with 350+ horsepower. Money isn't a big deal for me. I was just wondering what engines will fit and replace my stock engine.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Mrmiata's Avatar
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From: Kellyville, Ok
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Do a search for v8 swap.. one of us would have to.. LOL
 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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RL67037's Avatar
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From: Kansas, USA
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Or ... put the N/A up for sale, take the proceeds and add about 3K to it and pick up an SRT

With only 77K on the clock, you've got plenty of time before that engine gives up on you if it is well maintained. Your grandkids may have to worry about the new engine if you take good care of it.

Enjoy!!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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Ed Mahoney's Avatar
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From: midwest
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

engine should last ya a long long time just add some juice to it !!!! 100 shot & your good to go with a tune !!!!!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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pizzaguy's Avatar
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Default Re: What engine should I buy?

I could EASILY see these engines going well over 300,000 miles as a daily driver - maybe considerably less if it sees 5,000 rpm every time you drive it, but even then, maybe not.

I REALLY liked Lantana's N/A V8 car. It was no "bolt it right in"; it took him no time to put the engine in, but weeks and weeks to get it to run.


I have daydreams about mine and what motor I could drop in it ... but at 94,000 miles, it's probably a long way off, it if EVER happens.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 03:21 PM
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Alabaster xfire's Avatar
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Default Re: What engine should I buy?

I've been looking at the Sl55 V8 Mercedez engine it's got about 440+HP and like 510 torque for 4,300$ I can't seem to find to much research about the lantana engine maybe it's just me, could you provide me with the HP,Torque, and price?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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05roadsterguy's Avatar
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From: snohomish WA.
Talking Re: What engine should I buy?

Honestly, Engine prices are what You buy them for, unless Your buying new crate engines. The 55 conversion really seems to be the popular way to go.

There is so much information on this site about this subject that I suggest You stop posting and start reading. You could probably read for a month without coming to the end.

Make Your plans based of fothers successes or blaze a new trail. It would seem that You have plenty of time to make Your decision's. The 320 Your running will go an easy 500,000 if You do maintenance and don't beat it like a red headed stepchild.

Make Your plans and keep us informed on what Your doing! Hell You could still be the first to ever Turbo a crossfire!
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 05:52 AM
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shawndalyphd's Avatar
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From: Niagara Falls, NY
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Can't help thinking an SRT with minor mods is the answer. People like me (smaller pulley and ECU tune, nothing else) get 400 bhp easy. More with more mods. A new engine is a very expensive way to go about this. Until you're looking to get to well into 500's...
Shawn
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:48 PM
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bri3d's Avatar
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From: Boulder, CO
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Originally Posted by Alabaster xfire
I've been looking at the Sl55 V8 Mercedez engine it's got about 440+HP and like 510 torque for 4,300$ I can't seem to find to much research about the lantana engine maybe it's just me, could you provide me with the HP,Torque, and price?
I know you said money isn't really an object, but I think by the time you get out you'll have spent at least 5 times that.

55K engines are usually more expensive even as junkyard pulls - I'd be suspicious of that engine at that price. Factor in probably at least $1k if not more for the supporting parts that are broken or missing if you're buying a pulled engine, too. Hoses, belts should be replaced, you'll need full fluids, something will probably be bent from rough treatment depending on where you get the engine, wiring harness and sensors are often cracked, etc.

Then you get to do the swap, and then you get to the actually hard part: making the car start, especially with the key. You need to teach all of the car's control modules that they're in the same vehicle, make them accept your Chrysler VIN, and make the security system recognize your keys. You'll need access to some smart tuners, probably a Star DAS developer system (turn-key Chinese clones start at $600-$1000), and possibly a Chrysler DRB-III tool as well.

If you're going for pure power I'm not sure Lantana's engine choice is for you - he chose the 500 out of something non-AMG and unless you swap the cams or add forced induction it's not a whole lot more powerful than a well-modded SRT6 would be.

For comparison with your money, rcompart did full, "give me the car and I give you the car with a 55K engine where you turn the key and drive away" conversions for somewhere in the high-20s or low-30s range. I think LantanaTX spent over half that, but he also invested hundreds of hours making the car work himself and I'm not sure it ever started using the key alone. sk8erjosh09 just got a V8 for nearly free to put in his 6-speed, but no word on the total cost yet because it still doesn't run, and he's got a lot of combined knowledge and smarts to help him out.

Anyway, if you're just looking for something to buy now and keep in a garage until you're ready for it, get a 55K engine, but know that when you go to swap it in it won't be a cheap weekend project like a swap is on some cars.
 

Last edited by bri3d; Aug 12, 2013 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Can't type; new -> now, C-class -> ?
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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BoilerUpXFire's Avatar
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From: Carmel, In.
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Originally Posted by bri3d
If you're going for pure power I'm not sure Lantana's engine choice is for you - he chose the 500 out of a C-class
They never made a C class, non-amg car with a V8, it was more than likely from an E500 or an S500.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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grip grip's Avatar
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From: TN
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

I bet Rudy would love to assist you in installing this bad boy! Twin turbo with 54 miles. Add a tune and you've got 700 ft lbs of torque.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-R231-SL550-AMG-TWIN-TURBO-ENGINE-ASSEMBLY-54-MILES-/190868025027?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c709eeec3&vxp=mtr
 

Last edited by grip grip; Aug 12, 2013 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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bri3d's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Boulder, CO
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Originally Posted by BoilerUpXFire
They never made a C class, non-amg car with a V8, it was more than likely from an E500 or an S500.
You're right, I can't type. I know the actual donor vehicle is in his build thread somewhere, but I guess it's not a big deal since the 24V V8s mount up the same.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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sk8erjosh09's Avatar
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
Default Re: What engine should I buy?

Originally Posted by bri3d
I know you said money isn't really an object, but I think by the time you get out you'll have spent at least 5 times that.

55K engines are usually more expensive even as junkyard pulls - I'd be suspicious of that engine at that price. Factor in probably at least $1k if not more for the supporting parts that are broken or missing if you're buying a pulled engine, too. Hoses, belts should be replaced, you'll need full fluids, something will probably be bent from rough treatment depending on where you get the engine, wiring harness and sensors are often cracked, etc.

Then you get to do the swap, and then you get to the actually hard part: making the car start, especially with the key. You need to teach all of the car's control modules that they're in the same vehicle, make them accept your Chrysler VIN, and make the security system recognize your keys. You'll need access to some smart tuners, probably a Star DAS developer system (turn-key Chinese clones start at $600-$1000), and possibly a Chrysler DRB-III tool as well.

If you're going for pure power I'm not sure Lantana's engine choice is for you - he chose the 500 out of something non-AMG and unless you swap the cams or add forced induction it's not a whole lot more powerful than a well-modded SRT6 would be.

For comparison with your money, rcompart did full, "give me the car and I give you the car with a 55K engine where you turn the key and drive away" conversions for somewhere in the high-20s or low-30s range. I think LantanaTX spent over half that, but he also invested hundreds of hours making the car work himself and I'm not sure it ever started using the key alone. sk8erjosh09 just got a V8 for nearly free to put in his 6-speed, but no word on the total cost yet because it still doesn't run, and he's got a lot of combined knowledge and smarts to help him out.

Anyway, if you're just looking for something to buy now and keep in a garage until you're ready for it, get a 55K engine, but know that when you go to swap it in it won't be a cheap weekend project like a swap is on some cars.
bri3d is pretty much on point.

4,300 is pretty average for those motors though. I'd spend the extra 1K for a low mileage one though. Bob's (LantanaTX) motor was from a CL500. It doesn't matter though, all the 500 motors are the exact same.

What isn't mentioned above and a pretty big PITA with the 55K swap is the parts for the H/E and intercooler. Plumbing, brackets, the coolant reservoir and all that.

What is cool about the 55K other than tons of power , is that the hardware in the ECU can accept the software for our key instead of the IR that comes in the Merc versions. AMG left that open, for whatever reason. So key and cruise will work with DAS coding or a clean transfer of the immo.

Star DAS with developer is needed. It's hard to find a good fully working Chinese clone of too. Mine is French and was around $750. Chrysler scan tool DRBIII is not needed and a lot more expensive anyway.

If you have an auto tranny then you will be looking at even more software hacking that I have not needed to research or learn. The TCM has a torque limiter, it prevented even Bob's who was only at 350 lbs/ft, not sure on how much to the wheel but it doesn't matter because it was limited to a ridiculous amount like 250 to the wheel or something.

Also with that much power you will need an upgraded diff for sure.

On price, Bob spent somewhere around 3600, and recovered some back after selling the V6. All of his ECU work was done through others.

I am just shy of the 3K mark right now, but I am doing everything start to finish on my own. I have 2 different programmers now, Star DAS with developer, 4 ECU's, a crap load of soldering equipment... The other thing already mentioned too was my motor shipped to my house was $510. Motor and parts were a little over 1K. I (due to lack of research) bought a flywheel and 2 clutches that didn't fit which is why my price is where it is. It should be $900 less because of those.

With the 55K, you're looking at $10K minimum just in motor and parts for the mechanical side. ECU work would be anywhere from 1K to 5K depending on where you go. For the basics people tend to forget you'll need lighter fluid or diesel (for cleaning the motor, if you want to do that), oil, power steering fluid, grinder with a cutting wheel or hacksaw (PITA), cherry picker or A-frame, engine stand, then the parts that are all different...
 
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